Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Dec 04, 2006 12:30am | #1

   For maximum contrast dye with a very dilute solution of a dark brown dye.  Then sand with 320 grit paper to remove dye on the plain surface parts and leave it where it has pentrated more deeply in the figure. 

   Figure can also be popped with boiled linseed oil. 

2. 
   stantheman | Dec 04, 2006 04:17am | #2

   cpenny

   Yes, aniline dye.  I have seen some stunning effects with just dye and lacquer on musical instruments.   But try it on test pieces first.  And pay attention to how you sand it.  The higher grit you sand the maple before the dye, the lighter the absorption. 

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Dec 04, 2006 04:44am | #3

   How fine you sand maple with have a large effect on how dark a pigmented stain will make it, but almost no effect on how dark a dye will color it.  Pigment needs places to lodge and the maple pores are too small for much penetration.  Buy the dye molecules are so much smaller than even maples pores that penetration is quite good, although dye does penetrate more deeply when figure rises to the surface. 

1. 
   stantheman | Dec 04, 2006 05:26pm | #5

   Thanks Steve.  I would have thought so, based on the particle size, but my (unfortunate) experience was otherwise.  I use Transtint on curly maple, and found that the color was uniformly much darker when I stopped at 150-180 grit versus the 320-400 that I used on the finished piece.  Perhaps technique was the issue.  Wetting first would have made difference. 

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Dec 04, 2006 06:08pm | #6

   The thing that often makes the difference with dye is not putting it on liberally enough.  I usually flood it on, just being neat enough to avoid letting it run down unfinished portions that I can't get to quickly.  This lets the concentration of the dye determine the color, not how heavily it is applied. 

   Of course, a rough surface might look darker just because of the roughness, in the same way it might look darker if simply wet with water.  This effect would mostly disappear under a film finish, I would think. 

3. 
   mapleman | Dec 04, 2006 06:41am | #4

   Cpenny,

   I second the aniline dye suggestions. If using a water-based dye, be sure to lightly wet the wood with water first to raise the grain, then sand again before staining. You don't have to do this, but it helps. Alcohol soluble dyes don't require the pre-grain raising technique. Water-based are supposedly more light fast, but I haven't seen a noticable difference in the two. Laquer top coat is my choice, but any film-type finish that can be built up on the surface of the wood will work.

   Enclosed is a picture of a curly maple mirror, with water based aniline dye from woodworker's supply.

   Lee