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I am using cherry crotch veneer in panels for a sleigh bed for my house. I really want the figure to pop and am not sure of the best way to do this. Another post refers to using aniline dye on curly cherry, but I’ve never used dyes on my furniture. I’m a self-taught amateur wood worker and have never used dye in finishing my projects, but have read the reference articles in FW on figured maple and walnut.
If the aniline dye method is very complex and I can get a similar result more easily, I’m open to suggestions. If aniline dye is the best method, I’d appreciate thoughts on best brands, mixing proportions, etc. Also, if there are any things to watch out for since I’m using veneer, I’d appreciate the heads up.
FWIW-this is a re-post of a message originally posted under the curly cherry fireplace surround string. Someone wisely suggested that I create a new topic, but I will check both strings…so if you have already posted a reply to my first message-THANKS!
Paul
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Just my opinion but I would apply linseed oil to bring out the curl (twice) and then finish with buttonlac shellac. You could use garnet for a slightly lighter color. Now is not the time to experiment with analine dyes. Save that for another project.
*I agree whole-heartedly with Mr. Tuggle, FWIW. Boiled linseed oil followed by shellac. Practice brushing the shellac before you work on the real project. Try a 1.5 to 2.0 pound cut at first. I'd wax the project a day or two after the last coat of shellac is applied.If you dislike working with shellac, you could go five + coats of a Danish oil product followed by wax, but you will not get the depth of finish that shellac will impart.
*In several different places, I have read that linseed oil darkens over time. Tung oil is another alternative that apparently does not darken with time. Might want to experiment with each on scrap.
*Don,What you say is true. However, nothing is ever as simple as it seems. The two key words are "darken" and "time". The cherry will darken on its own at a much faster rate than the boiled (misnomer) linseed oil ever will. As an example cherry changes color rather quickly (weeks) as opposed to years for the oil. Whithin a year the cherry has reached its "final color" so to speak.I use linseed oil and turpentine (50/50) for drawers. There is no appreciable darkening years later. Even though it does "darken". It is common to use it on "new" reproductions but you would not use it on a "true" antique. The idea being "do no harm". In other words it will darken and it won't be reversable.It all depends on what look you want. It would not be a good choice for white maple with a clear non-darkening finish. Otherwise...
*let time and light do the coloring of the cherry. Our for-fathers built furniture that has a color we try to copy today. Our differnt methods of useing dye and stain can not match up to the natural of the wood.
*It depends on what you want your finished product to look like. I have been making humidors for years and have tried a number of products.If you like the wood "natural" I would use a watco or dwatchatural oil stain. Very easy to use and will realy brinreally the grain. If you like cover (after 24 hours) with a lacquer, preferably pre cataliper canalizedatelydefinitelyulose in the sheen that you like. This will give a very warm feel.If you like a dark finish, a nice commercial finish is Belhens cherry aniline dye. Aniline is nice, you can easily manipulate the color and tone. Cover this once it is dry with natural watco and watchapply a minimum of 3 coats of lacquer. You need the oil finish over the dye on cherry because it is a very thirsty wood. If you don't use it the finish will soak in parts of the wood and stay on the surface of others producing an uneaven apunevene. This is a very elegant finish. Before you make a decision take a long scrap piece of wood, section it off in 6 inch segments with tape and try the finishes. We all may make sugestionssuggestionsare the one who must live with it.Take care.
*It depends on what you want your finished product to look like. I have been making humidors for years and have tried a number of products.If you like the wood "natural" I would use a watco or deft natural oil stain. Very easy to use and will realy bring out the grain. If you like cover (after 24 hours) with a lacquer, preferably pre catalized and definately nitrocellulose in the sheen that you like. This will give a very warm feel.If you like a dark finish, a nice commercial finish is Belhens cherry aniline dye. Aniline is nice, you can easily manipulate the color and tone. Cover this once it is dry with natural watco and then apply a minimum of 3 coats of lacquer. You need the oil finish over the dye on cherry because it is a very thirsty wood. If you don't use it the finish will soak in parts of the wood and stay on the surface of others producing an uneaven appearance. This is a very elegant finish. Before you make a decision take a long scrap piece of wood, section it off in 6 inch segments with tape and try the finishes. We all may make sugestions, but you are the one who must live with it.Take care.
*Oil and wax, without a doubt. Don't dye a wood that is beautiful in it's own right. Patience is a virtue for the careful craftsman.
*I agree that staining or dyeing cherry is usuallyunnecessary. Be patient and let the wood darkennaturally and attractively.I have had good luck with three finishes on curly cherry: polymerized tung oil varnish(several coats wiped on over several or more days), or shellac or lacquer(pad appied over a few days.)The lacquer and shellac may require leveling. Hand rubbing with pumice and rottenstone leave a beautiful, deep and rich film finish which showcases grain variations beautifully. A coat or two of a hard wax will complete the piece, regardless of the finish you choose. Personal taste will determine which of these finishes you choose. Since you're working on a bed, you don't need to consider factors such as heat, heavy wear, alcohol, and water exposure. I find myself using the film finishes more frequently these days with curly or birds'eye grain. They may be more challenging to apply but can be applied in a shorter time-frame. They also give more appearance of depth to the grain. Fortunately for the beginning woodworker, all three finishes can be applied without spray equipment.
*My-space-bar-is-outI'm-building-mirrors-framed-in-cherry-for-a-largecatering-outfit.--What-is-the-best-finish???It-needs-to-withstand-acitic-acid(fresh-fruits),temperature-extremes(35degree-cooler,150degree-dishwasher)-waterproof,durable,andgorgous.Please-Help-Hank
*Paul, park your cherry pieces outdoors in the direct sunlight, this will accelerate the "darkening" process, and as CStanford stated, a tung-oil finish followed by wax is the "usual" Shaker Finish.
*Hank, are these "serving" pieces???Mirrors as trays?Need more information.
*Paul I have a suggestion or 2 and a opinion,I have read the previous posts and as a finisher,I would never wait for cherry to age.Its not like breaking in a car,it takes years and years.Why not help it along,Jeff Jewwit wrote a wonderful article on finish curly maple,in FW 135.If I were you I would follow that. Most people who say not to color cherry are affraid to do it,don't make this mistake.There is no award for being a "purist" cherry does age beautifully,sometimes in weeks other times in decades. A vey simply method is get some Behlen Solar-LuxNGR stain,choose a med to dark mahogany,this is made with Methyl Alcohol but can be thinned with water,cut the desired color 50% w/water,soak a spong with it,lightly mist the veener(put just enough water on so that the stain is easier to apply).Apply the stain as evenly as you can,let it dry completely.Now sand it lightly at first w/180 good quality sand paper (I use 3M's TriMite)then wet sand w/220 followed by 320 or 400.Let that dry,then apply a couple of coats of thinned shellac (Zinnser makes Bullseye)thinned with lacquer thinner (which makes the finish harder and easier to sand)and tinted with a dark brown Solar_Lux NGR.I like their orange,but the clear works well also.The more you thin it the easier it is to brush on,but it will dry fast so pratice first.Please note that all shellac has a limited shelf life,on the bottom of the can is the manufactuers date,find a can a couple of months old or less.Sand between coats with a 3Mmaroon pad,and when you have acheived the colors you want,apply 2 coats of wax, buff it out and your done.Good Luck!Michael
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