I have the opportunity to pick up a Jet 1442 Lathe for $600. Never owned one but would like to! That is about 1/2 off new, and the photos look like it is one that has hardly been used.
What do I check over before I buy?
AZMO
I have the opportunity to pick up a Jet 1442 Lathe for $600. Never owned one but would like to! That is about 1/2 off new, and the photos look like it is one that has hardly been used.
What do I check over before I buy?
AZMO
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Replies
Morgan,
First of all, I had a look at the specs and it looks to have most (maybe all) the features you could want on a lathe: outboard turning, stepped pulleys for speed control, Morse 2 tapers, mass, 1HP...
Most importantly, make sure that it runs. Bring a dial indicator and check the run-out of the spindle. I believe that my SC midi lathe has 0.005 of runout. Check that all the moving parts move smoothly and that the locking handles work well. Bring the tailstock with a live center installed right up to the headstock. The points should align (or should be able to be aligned) perfectly. This is more important with spindles than bowls. That's all I can think of - the lathe is a pretty simple machine.
Good luck,
Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Edited 5/9/2008 12:51 pm by flairwoodworks
Thanks Chris, that is the info I need. <!----><!----><!---->
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The 1442 in the jet catalog has a reeves drive pully system, variable speed from 450 to 3000 RPM.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
I did end up getting a new tool! The owner had just bought a big used General about two months ago. He wanted to use it for awhile before selling the jet. It has been used alot, but not abused. The motor runs quiet, the shift lever runs through all the speeds, the Head Stock is aligned with the Tail Stock and can be adjusted, since it is an outswing Head Stock for larger bowls. It should be more than adequate for a novice turner.
The best part of the deal is the willingness to have me over for some advice. Turns out he only lives 5 miles from my house. He is one of those quiet ones, thought for a second after I asked him, then said "Sure, it would be better you learn the right way...." Gotta love it.
I won't get started on this for awhile, still building stuff in my shop, and need to finish something before I start ten more things! I am sure I post for some thoughts, but I love reading, so if anyone has a book they like.... let me know!
AZMO
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If you're looking for a book on turned bowls, I'd recommend "Beneath the Bark" or "500 Wood Bowls" for inspiration.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
I think my first task will be how to turn anything without killing myself. Rookie on a tool! I am sure there is a ton of newbie stuff out there. I like your idea of inspiration, targets are great motivation.
Chris the tool rest on this machine has some dings and notches, any problem or should I grind them out?
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Even if you never normally wear safety gear in the shop, ALWAYS WEAR A FACE SHIELD WHEN TURNING (BOWLS especially)!!! Once you blow something up, you'll understand. I know a guy who is a professional turner who wears a face shield when turning. However, on one occaison, he needed to make just one small cut to finish the bowl and decided to forego the face shield - nothing can happen, right? Anyways, the bowl exploded and he ended up with a broken nose.
A note on tool selection: there is a lot of talk about the importance of a long handle. When I started, I read about this and turned long handles for my tools because I was told to and used the tools with one hand holding the tool at the tool rest to guide it and the other holding the end of the handle. I find that I have much more control with my right hand holding the tool at the ferrule (I'm right handed) and my left hand guiding the tool along the tool rest. If I'm hollowing out a bowl and need the leverage, I'll brace the long tool handle against my right forearm as well.
Regarding the toolrest, tools should be able to glide along it smoothly. If the dings and notches prevent this in any way, use a file to true up the rest.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
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