I just finished building a 38” x 84” farm table for my house. It was made from new heart southern yellow pine and vertical grain southern yellow pine.
Now I need to finish it. I pretreated with seal-cote cut with alcohol and stained. I am waiting for the stain to dry. I need help deciding what to use for a top coat.
I want an ”in the wood look” but after searching here and every where else for hours I’m still a little confused.I thinking of using an oil finish. I know they are not as durable as say a poly finish but I don’t really mind if it gets beat up by the kids. To me that just gives it character. I actually beat the top up after sanding to try to give it an aged look.
So, please educate me, is this a bad idea for a kitchen table if you actually like the weathered look.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. What would be the probable finish if this table were being finished 100 yrs ago.
Thanks, dug-stepping over from breaktime
Replies
You have partially sealed the table with shellac and then sealed it further with the binder of the stain. By this point you haven't left much scope for an in-the_wood finish to penetrate. You could at this point apply a wiping varnish finish that would stay pretty thin, but still provide substantial protection. I'd avoid varnishes that include polyurethane for a more natural look.
A hundred years ago a kitchen table might have been oiled, perhaps, but also quite possibly the legs would be painted and the top left unfinished where it would be scrubbed down. We wouldn't consider that terribly sanitary, but wood doesn't harbor "bugs" as much as some other surfaces. Oil based varnish was available and so was shellac.
Shellac would have been the primary furniture finish at that time, though not for kitchen tables where lye soap would have done it in quite quickly. Shellac dissolves in alkali solutions--most spray cleaners have pretty high pH numbers. Your initial shellac coating might have some vulnerability if left unprotected, as would be the case if you just try to use an oil finish (oil or oil/varnish mix..
Steve,
Thanks for the reply. I'm a carpenter by trade who really only does projects like this for myself. I've got alot to learn about wood finishes.
I understand what you are saying about the shellac and stain filling the pores. After experimenting with several variations that seemed to be the only way to get the color I wanted.Remember, I have very limited experience in finishing wood.
Given the stage I'm at now on this project, would you have any specific product recogmendations that you would share. If it was your table how would you proceed and exactly (name brand to look for ) what would you put on it.
Thanks, dug
dug,
I usually construct my own wiping varnish but for what your talking about I like to use Waterlox Original ...5 or 6 coats. I apply with bare hands which warms the oil and helps with a thinner spread.
I looked at their website and if I understand it right, it says I would need a topcoat after this.
Are you saying you think I would be o.k. just using this?
Thanks, dug
dug,I just use the sealer and finish( all in one can)original. I'll defer to Steve if additional detail is needed.
I read it also. You have sealed with shellac already. You don't need another sealer. You could just use a wipe on varnish and could use a NON-poly varnish since it isn't apparent whether the shellac you used was dewaxed. The non-poly will also give a nicer in the wood look. I'd suggest at least 8 applications for the top, and maybe 6 for the sides.Gretchen
Shellac was unwaxed.... Thinking I'm gonna take yall's advice and go with the wiping varnish. Any specific suggestions ? Trying to keep the satin look.
Thanks, dug
Edited 5/11/2009 6:44 pm ET by dug
The original/sealer works perfectly well as a top coats. To speed up the process of applying wipe on varnish you can apply it in "sets" of up to three coats, with the spacing between coats being just long enough for the film to not be tacky. That may be only 2-3 hours apart, though it depends A LOT on the temperature. You won't need to sand between the coats in these sets. (It won't be hard enough to sand. Then after each set let it dry for a full overnight period and lightly sand before applying the next set.
O.K. ,I think you and others have convinced me to go the wiping varnish route.
After another couple hours of research I think I finally understand the difference between varnish, oil/varnish, and poly, but.....I've never used wiping varnish before so do you have any other recogmendations besides Waterlox. Can't find that local but I will order it if its better than stuff off the big box shelf like Formbys tung oil finish.Trying to get the satin look.
Thanks for your time, dug
Edited 5/11/2009 6:43 pm ET by dug
You can make your own wiping varnish by thinning any oil-based varnish. I do like Waterlox, which does come in a satin version. It has a bit higher solids content than the original/sealer, so you might want a small amount of thinner if it seems too "sticky" while wiping. Try it straight from the can though. Higher solids means faster build. The orignal/sealer gives a mellow semi-gloss that I like a lot, but that is an aesthetic decision strictly up to you.
As far as the number of coats goes, "protection" increases as the number of coats increases. Some recommend 9 coats for excellent protection But protection isn't everything. If you have put on three or four coats and begin to think it is looking like too thick a coating, then stop. It will still hold up pretty well.
BG
there's enough mineral spirits in there to fry your brain iva your bare skin. Its a varnish.
Ordered some satin Waterlox today, should be here tomorrow or the next. Keep ya posted on how it turns out.
dug
dug,I hope it works well for you. I'm siting next to a kitchen table I finished in 75'. (bought is as unfinished furniture)It's got lots of cuts and scratches but most important are the letters and numbers pressed into the wood from learning hands. Ya think my wife would let me refinish this table??...not on your life :)
SHE has the right outlook on what is important. I love it. Thanks for the share.Gretchen
a few coats of shellac... then hundreds of coats of wax...
L
GardenStructure.com~Build for the Art of it! Decks Blog
With the nice big water rings from the first glass of iced tea that is put on without a coaster. Sorry, not a good finish for table for heavy use. ;o)
Gretchen
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