(cut to the chase, background follows below)
I need to make two 6/4 (actually 11/8 would be preferred) red gum planks 14″ wide (20″ long) out of 4/4 x about 6.5″ D2S (13/16″ actual thickness) gum and/or 1/42″ by 7.5″ gum veneer. The corners will be the most proud part of an open doorway detail, and judging by the ones I’m trying to match, will get some abuse on the corners. Stuff will be laid on the top of the planks in daily usage.
Red gum is hard to find around here, so all I can get are planks that are thin in both directions.
My original thought was to take 6/4 x 6″ S4S poplar jointed together, trim to 12.5″ then edge with the gum, mitered at the corners, then veneer the whole top and round the edges so the veneer edge would be less likely to catch on something and chip.
Now I’m wondering if I should just forget about the veneer, joint the middle and add edging to make up the thickness. That would put 3 lengthwise glue lines plus the corner miters (molding will cover the end-grain edging joint. Unfortunately, I don’t think I have enough width to get to 14″ with one joint so that I could miter the edging to hide the glue line. Fortunately, it will be in a location so that the top wouldn’t be seen clearly from a distance, but the edges would.
Also, I don’t have a jointer or planer. I’d need to make joints with a table saw and/or jointer shims for my router table.
Any thoughts?
thanks,
—mike…
Background: These will form Craftsman Colonnades to match existing ones on the the other side of the room. For those unfamiliar with the styling, they are basically base cabinets on either side in an open doorway that are as thick as the the wall the doorway. The planks I’m building will sit on top of the cabinets. A tapered box column will sit on top of the plank extending to the top of the doorway, with a gap between the column and the edge of the doorway.
Replies
Madison, I will be cutting into a paneled wall in a few weeks to make an opening for a TV. The house was built in 1926, and the panels are stained dark, but that was my guess of wood type through the old finish.
Then I cut into the other side of the wall, and could see the back. I am pretty sure that is what this is, but I don't know how thick or thin the panels are. I won't be cutting this out until I see the TV, which might be a few months out though.
I could try to save this material for you if you are not in a hurry. I think the panels are at least 14" w X 20" T, and I will be cutting out at least 4, along with some style and rail.
Nothing beats getting old wood when you are trying to do restoration work.
Thanks, Kieth,It's tempting to take you up on the offer. Gum only became available recently at my local hardwood supplier. However, I need to finish this project ASAP.I agree that old wood is great; you don't have to worry much about additional wood movement - you know what you've got.thanks,
---mike...
First, I think I'd find a source for an actual equivalent to the existing material, and get prices (including shipping/freight), and then confer with the client, comparing the alternative costs. Constructing similar-looking planks might end up being more expensive, once the labor is considered.
If the build-up option is selected, I think I'd veneer the surface first, edge-trim that with a router, and then add the solid banding slightly proud of the surface, and then trim that to the surface. Having solid wood at the edge would wear much better, I'd think.
I'd forget the veneer. I'd glue up the boards to get the 14" width. Then I'd add double over the edges to get the thickness you need. Yes, you'll have glue lines. What's the matter with that?
To double over the end, I'd glue up the 14" width, cut 3/4" off the end, and use that for the double-over. This makes the grain direction of the glued-on piece the same as the wide board it is attached to, so the whole thing grows and shrinks without stressing the glue bond. If you double over the end without flipping it upsidedown, the grain lines often match up better than if you flip it.
Jamie responded:
> I'd forget the veneer.
That's what I've been thinking.
> I'd glue up the boards to get the 14" width. Then I'd add double over the edges to get the thickness you need.
> To double over the end, I'd glue up the 14" width, cut 3/4" off the end, and use that for the double-over.
Could you explain what you're thinking a little more? Which end?
Are you saying to make a plank twice as long as I need, then rip the edges to get a 14" plank, then cross-cut to length, rip 3/4" off the "waste" and glue it to the bottom of the 14" board? (glue line on narrow edge)
Or make a wider plank, then rip to 14" and use the edge "waste" to glue below? (again, glue line on narrow edge)
Or make a wider plank, then rip to 12.5" and fold the edge "waste" down? (glue line on top flat)
thanks,
---mike...
p.s. this time my client is DW, so I'll have to live with constant reminders of anything that doesn't work out. I don't like buying decorative lumber unseen. DW likes interesting grain.
Well, I'm not completely sure what shape you're needing. It seems that you want a plank that is 14" wide, and looks from the sides and ends like it is 1 1/2" thick or so. You only have 3/4" stock. I'm suggesting making your plank mostly 3/4" thick, but 1 1/2" thick along the edges and ends.
Jamie,
If I'm following you, would you miter the end pieces so there would be no end grain showing?
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
No miter. The 14"-wide end of the board is end grain. The fold-over piece below it (which makes the board look 1 1/2" thick) is also end grain. They're the same, which is the point.
ok, I get the end fold-over - more of a cut and shift down to double up the thickness. How would you do the sides - make the width 15-7/8" and rip 3/4" off each edge (to get 14" using a thin kerf blade) and glue the pieces below each edge?thanks,
---mike...
Jamie,
Got it, thanks.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
When you say red gum, do you mean heart sweetgum or are you referring to eucalyptus?
by red gum, I mean sweetgum heartwood. (Project has stalled as I deal with the siding/painting contractors and restoring some old sashes...)---mike...
I have a 8/4 (2" thick rough) sweetgum plank that is highly figured. It is 6" wide by 8' long. This figure may not be what you are looking for.
Anyway, I thought that I would throw it out there! Attached is a pic. Let me know if you are interested in it. Good luck with your project.
We had worked with Red Gum during a victorian renovation some time back. The owner had removed all of the original trim and had the 15 or 20 layers of paint stripped before he sanded and finished with poly. It took a long time to identify the wood as no one had ever seen this species before. The wood itself was quite unruly and very unstable, warps and twists like crazy. We had to use trim screws and wood plugs to install some of it. But it sure was beautiful. Best of luck with your project.
The spiral grain causes sweetgum to twist and warp more than most woods. It is like elm and sycamore, very nice looking wood, but difficult to use. If the wood is planed flat and there is minimal moisture change, it remains stable. If the equilibrium moisture content at the time of use is higher or lower than the long term environment the wood will live in, there is more likelihood of undesirable movement.
I think about the best use is as paneling where the individual boards can move on their own like in tongue and groove. In this application, warping and twisting can be managed. If the boards are glued up in a wide panel, problems with twisting are more probable, especially if the moisture content changes.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled