Hi
I have done face lamination before when I only had 4/4 lumber. Like face gluing 3/4 boards to make legs, bench stretchers, sawbench saddle and never got stability problem but in these cases the pieces where assemble shortly after. I am a little worried about the stability of thinner boards face laminated used for furniture top and drawer front.
Can one face glue two 3/8 thick boards to make a 3/4 inch thick boards that could afterward be used for laminating table top or making drawer fronts. If so, that would permit to have bookmatched patern from 4/4 lumber. Or save nice figured wood for the top layer only.
I would also like to know if the boards needs to be the same thickness or could one face glue a 1/2 board with a 1/4 board? Does the end ring orientation matters?
thanks
Edited 11/20/2008 9:18 pm ET by martin007
Edited 11/26/2008 9:53 am ET by martin007
Edited 11/26/2008 9:53 am ET by martin007
Replies
Hi,
Sorry I'm so slow in replying. I've been out of town giving a workshop.
Good questions. Why not glue up boards to make thicker stock? Well the answer lies in the material I think. Boards of a certain thickness, anything over 1/8" do not act like veneer. So you have to pay attention when face gluing them. Heck you even have to pay attention when gluing up veneers to make sure your package is evenly balanced.
So when you ask can you glue up two 3/8" boards to make a 3/4" stock, the answer is a qualified yes. I'd avoid it personally unless the two boards come out of the same stock. Otherwise you might have movement disparities between the two boards which could cause cupping.
I would also, as you suggest, reverse faces so that the growth rings are opposing one another. If they both face the same way, I think your chances of cupping will increase.
And I would avoid putting a thicker board onto a thinner one. I think you're just asking for movement issues over time. Good luck.
Gary Rogowski
http://www.northwestwoodworking.com
thanks for the answers Gary
You mentioned that chances of wood movement issues are greater if the boards don't come from the same stock or if the boards to be face glued are not the same thickness
Do you think that,in these situations, the wood movement can be handles by breadboard ends, in case of furniture top or a panel in the frame's slots.
Drawers should be fine with the joinery to the sides, right?
Martin
Martin,Yeah, I think breadboard ends help most any situation where you need to allow for movement and need to keep things flat. Make sure you allow for both. Drawer stock for sides is usually thin enough that you won't need to face glue boards together. Drawer fronts should stay flat if you use dovetails on the corners. The more tails and pins the more gluing surface so don't skimp. Gary Rogowski
http://www.northwestwoodworking.com
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