Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Oct 25, 2008 05:17am | #1

   I'd switch the polyurethane varnish for a phenolic resin varnish for better UV resistence.  The M-1 would be very important since mildew just loves linseed oil.

   But, if you think an oil based stain is too thick and paint like, you can thin it with the addition of mineral spirits, and I suspect you would get something much more like the product you had in mind.  The VOCs may well have been removed for regulatory reasons in the commercial products. 

1. 
   jf4 | Oct 25, 2008 05:23am | #2

   Steve, thanks for the advice. I know the new stains say you can clean up with mineral spirits, but I'm not sure if you can thin with it. Makes sense that you would be able to though.

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Oct 25, 2008 05:32am | #3

   Oil based finishes can all be thinned with mineral spirits.  Labels say not to thin, but that is only based on regulatory requirements to keep VOCs low, not based on the physical or chemical properties of the product.  Start with 15% addition almineral spirits and work your way up to a consistency with which you are comfortable. 

   Waterborne products are different, there are very severe limits on the amount of water that can be added without reducing the ability of the finish to coalesce properties. 

1. 
   jf4 | Oct 25, 2008 10:36pm | #4

   The only thing about the new stain is that is will still build a coating/film, where as the old formulas did not. That's why I was thinking of making my own.

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Oct 26, 2008 02:13am | #5

   Unless you wipe off excess, the formula you gave will also build a (soft) film, after all it's just an oil varnish mixture with added pigment.  It's that "film"  or binder that holds the pigment onto the wood. 

   There are also several kinds of commercial stains available.  One kind, which seems to be what you are thinking about, is opaque (solid color) but there are also stains that are much less opaque.  Here is an example of the range within the Cabot line.  http://www.cabotstain.com/colors-and-finishes/families/Choosing-Opacity.html 

   By the way, I don't really understand "feeding" the wood.  In terms of protection the most opaque film is the most protective, because it blocks the most UV light from reaching the wood.  It is UV that breaks down the lignin fibers on the wood surface.  Paint outlasts stain.  But even so stain is often preferred because it can be recoated more easily because the surface erodes more over time and it is usually thinner than paint, eliminating much of the scraping-sanding, etc. needed to over coat paint. 

2. 
   jf4 | Oct 26, 2008 02:31am | #6

   Steve, thanks for the information on Cabot. What I mean about feeding the wood is soaking it well with oil, without a build up. I have rough cedar siding, so I want something that soaks in and doesn't leave a surface film like paint. I've used semi-transparent stain in the past (0ld formula) with no problems. You could give the siding a couple of coats, with no build up. I've soaked (feeding) old wood with oil, tool handles, etc that was cracked and dry. After a point the wood becomes saturated and the cracks, if minor, will close up. This would be useful on some dry cedar siding I have on one side of my house, where the weathering is more severe.