Replies

1. 
   robkelly1 | Sep 09, 2003 02:00am | #1

   1. Use epoxy glue. 

   2. Seal the panels into the rails and stiles on the sides and bottom of the panels, otherwise rain hits the panel, runs down, and works its way thru to the inside. I use clear silicone rubber.

   3. Mount the door, hinges, hardware and all; then take it down, remove the hardware, and finish it.

   4. There is a piece of special weatherstripping that you put into a rabbet on the bottom of the door. Make sure that the rubber seal on this piece sheds water onto the outside slope of the threshhold, so that rain runs down the door, down the rubber seal, and down the edge of the threshhold onto the ground.

   5. An exterior door should be a full 1-3/4" thick for the stiles and rails.

   What kind of wood are you using, and will you paint or clear finish?

   
   

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   Edited 9/8/2003 7:07:20 PM ET by rob

1. 
   musher | Sep 09, 2003 02:25am | #2

   planning on using doug-fir for frame and two sheets of okume ply glued together.  paint finish in mostly exposed maine weather.  how long is setup for epoxy, never used it

1. 
   robkelly1 | Sep 09, 2003 05:42am | #3

   I use MAS low viscosity epoxy and never had a problem last ten yrs.  I use 24 hrs as setup time to be safe. In general, the longer the set up time the stronger the epoxy. e.g., don't use 5 min stuff. West system epoxy cures in 6-12 hrs, I've used it, works fine, but an exterior door is "the first line of defense" and I've never made an exterior door in an emergency, so I go as strong as possible. MOST EPOXIES NEED A TEMPERATURE OF AT LEAST 60*F TO CURE. So clamp and glue inside the shop, or in the house if the shop's not heated.

   Epoxies are 2-part. You mix them in the proper proportions as per the label, using a popsicle stick or similar in a throw-away plastic cup like the ones you get at the methadone clinic. Pot life for MAS is > 1 hr. Don't make more than you need because the cure is endothermic and if the heat can't get out, the entire pot will cook off in about 30 exciting seconds.

   After you cut your panels to size, seal the 4 edges with some sort of sealer like Minwax PU or a water base acrylic floor sealer. 3 coats.

   I always use loose tenon joinery for passage and entry doors. Traditional M&T is about 12 times stronger than needed. Loose tenons are only 10 times stronger but abt 10 time easier.

   For silicone rubber, get the "paintable silicone." The silicone will probably never see the paintable wood, but an excess of caution can't hurt in this situation.

   Say hello to Kerry for me.

2. 
   shopdoc | Sep 09, 2003 07:35am | #4

   I've been using polyurethane glue on my exterior doors for about 10 years now. So far it has held up well and is easier than mixing epoxy. I also have used resorcinol  glue in the past with very good results, but it's also a 2 part glue. Good luck.

                                                                             Steve

2. 
   WayneL5 | Sep 10, 2003 06:31am | #5

   I built one door of western red cedar in the Craftsman style for a home North of the Adirondacks in New York four years ago.

   I used polyurethane glue, which worked very well.  I'd recommend looking at a standard residential door, and staying with standard dimensions, weatherstripping, etc.  So match your door height, width, thickness, knob location, etc. to standard.  For weatherstripping, I bought replacement weatherstripping for a standard door.  The top and sides used strips that press fit into a saw kerf cut into the frame.  The bottom for my door used weatherstripping press fit into a pair of kerfs in the threshhold.  You could also use weatherstripping that goes on the bottom of the door.  For glazing, I had an insulated unit made up to fit the opening after the door was made.

   It was frame and panel construction.  For the panels, I used 1/4" veneer plywood, with a thin piece of polyisocyanurate insulation and bubble wrap (to keep it from rattling) insulation between the inner and outer panels.

   Be very careful in assembling the door to keep it from twisting.  Flatness is critical to it hanging properly and the weatherstrip sealing.  Mine twisted a little bit.  Of course squareness is important, too, but easier to achieve.

   All the weight of the door is hanging on one side, so the only thing which keeps the door from sagging is the workmanship of your joints, so you have to do your best.

   You've picked a nice challenge.  A door is not so easy.  Have fun with it.

1. 
   AlanTurner | Sep 12, 2003 08:39pm | #6

   What Wayne says of twisting and flat can't be over-emphasized.  For the stiles, use stright grain wood, and after ripping to thickness, check again for straightness.  Any that twist can perhaps be cut up for the shorter rails, but the stiles need to be quite stright, right off the saw.  Don't be surprised if you have to go through a few first.

   Alan