Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | May 14, 2009 08:30am | #1

   It's the best of the clear finish alternatives, though frankly clear finishes are a pain to maintain and require a certain craziness to want to use it.  If you want a clear finish to work make a sunbrella cover that is religiously replaced when the items aren't being used.  I say craziness, as I am now in the process of partially renewing varnish on my boat, having had to sand certain areas to bare wood due to some mechanical damage that wasn't treated immediately.  (This is the fourth season for Epifanes, that was recoated annually since it was applied. I'm beginning to see a few other problems too, with a few light patches even though the varnish appears totally sound. so I'm repressing the thought that I may be getting close to needing to strip it all off and repeat the process. 

2. 
   WillGeorge | May 14, 2009 01:38pm | #2

   I have no idea..

   But long ago I had a above the ground swimming pool..(15X30 Oval, As in USA feet)

   My children live in there... All Redwood decking. If something sort of looked nasty.. I throw a bottle of Bleach on it and wash it off about one hour after.. Lasted fer years! And still was sort of OK to look at!

3. 
   JohnWW | May 14, 2009 03:42pm | #3

   Scotty,

   Epifanes or a similar industrial weight true marine varnish is the best choice if you want to have an impervious gloss finish on the bench. The problem with the pine is that even protected by the varnish it still breaks down a bit from the ultra violet exposure, but this is not a fault of the finish.

   The one possible problem is that the extractive chemicals that naturally occur in the redwood, and which make the wood rot resistant, might affect the chemistry of the varnish. I'm sure that Epifanes could advise you on this.

   Being that the tests showed no advantage to using an epoxy sealer under the varnish, I would take the advice of the author and skip the extra step.

   It is important however to seal end grain on the bottom of the legs with an epoxy since the legs will be abraded and exposed to constant moisture and occasionally might be standing in water. You can use an ordinary hardware store clear epoxy for this, you don't have to buy the sealer meant for going under the varnish.

   I have a personal interest in that article, I prepared the samples and built the racks they were mounted on just before I retired from FWW.

   John White
   Shop Manager for Fine Woodworking 1998-2007

1. 
   SteveSchoene | May 14, 2009 05:03pm | #4

   Actually, the tests didn't show that there was no advantage to using the epoxy sealer.  What was demonstrated was that both systems worked equally for the first year.  Whether one was better or not could only be shown if the tests were extended until one or the other actually failed. 

2. 
   Scott_y | May 15, 2009 06:40am | #5

   Thanks John. I wonder - if I am going to seal the end grain with epoxy, is there any reason not to go ahead and seal the whole thing? Is the epoxy sealer good enough for the leg end grain, or should I be using a more durable product?

   Thanks,

   Scotty

1. 
   JohnWW | May 15, 2009 03:20pm | #6

   Scotty,The epoxy used as a primer for under the varnish will work fine to seal the bottom of the legs. If the primer epoxy is thin, it would be a good idea to apply a couple of coats to the end grain just to make sure the grain is completely sealed. My suggestion to use a hardware store epoxy for just the legs was given as a money saver. If I were doing this I would also attach some sort of plastic glide to the bottom of each leg after all of the finishing was completed to further protect the end grain from wear that might lead to soaking up water.John W.