Hi Folks,
I have a cherry burl (stump) that I have leveled on each end and would like to make a table by adding an endgrain hard maple 2″ slab for a top. At present my plan is to simply use a large dowel and only glue it into the top, leaving it approx. 2″ long and bore a hole in the burl to receive the dowel.
I’m thinking that I don’t want to permanently attach the two pieces together. People tend to lift/move tables by the top and I fear any permanent joint will eventually fail. Any thoughts/suggestions??????
Regards,
Replies
OK, but...
I think you're right about not attaching it permanently, but I'd use 2 or even 3 dowels, just to keep it from swiveling. There's probably an optimal position for the top slab on the base.
Two's enough, I hope
Thanks David,
I think one large, say 1" dowel in the center, maybe a 1/2" dowel to keep the top from spinning, should work. It should be fun locating the holes for the base....
Regards,
Endgrain top
Bob, If you do elect to go with "dowel' fastening, I suggest consideration of the Miller dowel - perhaps three. They have a stepped, tapered shape which should help aligning them when replacing the top.
Frosty
Forgot to mention, minor detail.....
Hi Frosty,
I forgot to mention, I don't want anything showing on the top so I'm not sure the Miller dowels would work. Sorry, I should have mentioned that. I thought of some sort of decorative inlay in the top to cover up thru dowel(s), but the end grain pattern is just too nice and didn't want to interrupt it.
I'm sure some folks could conceal the dowels with stain, etc. but I'm a bit faint of heart to attempt that. I suppose I could use a contrasting wood for the dowels, like cherry maybe. I dunno, just don't want to disturb that nice grain.
Regards,
Miller dowels
Bob,
I didn't mean for the dowels to penetrate the top. I had in mind "marking" the top and base for dowel location by denting both surfaces (underside of the top; top of the base).
Then insert and glue the full-diameter portion of the dowel in the top (don't penetrate the top when drilling) Using the special drill bit, drill the top of the base at the dent.
I believe that the stepped configuration of those dowels would make it easier to drop the top on the base than trying to fit all-round, full dimension dowels into a pair, or three of holes.
Frosty
Ok, I get it
Frosty,
I see what you're describing, thanks. I was going to slightly taper the pegs to make it easier to place the top. The Miller dowels sound like a good option. Of course I'll need those special stepped drill bits too. Can never have too many drill bits eh.
Regards,
P.S. Hey, at least they didn't change how the signature part works on the New forum, LoL.
Dowels
Bob,
I bought a set of dowels a few years ago. The drill bit came with the package. I had never used them until recently. I needed a way to fasten MDF with its poor screw holding capacity. They worked just fine.
Glad to have you back.
Frosty
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