Replies

1. 
   InMyOpinion | Mar 19, 2007 02:23am | #1

   If that doesn't work out, I would like to recommend Sikkens' Cetol. IMO, jim

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 19, 2007 02:57am | #2

   Completely encapsulate?   I don't think it is possible, because boats flex too much, and once there is a break--peeling starts there after.  You can help considerably by using a low viscosity epoxy such that from Smith & Co.  (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com is one source)   This comes closer to waterproofing, and if applied according the the manufacturer's timing encourages a crosslink between the varnish and the epoxy that is said to enhance adhesion.  Epoxy is quite vulnerable to UV rays and must be protected.  For that reason I think you would be better with a good marine varnish such as Epifanes Gloss varnish, (or Pettit Captain's or Interlux Schooner.)  The clear coat stands up well to UV but it doesn't have to protect the substrate under it when used on cars so I would question whether it will do that well. 

   (In addition, isn't the automotive clear coat just formulated for spraying?  The masking needed to spray on my deck would be so much more effort than brushing on varnish that it wouldn't make sense.)

   Of, course the other thing is that REGULAR maintenance is needed.  Every spring you need to sand and apply another varnish coat.  (More often if you are in the South.)   

   Of course, teak weathers gracefully to a nice silver grey.  I always remind myself of that when I am putting on another coat of varnish.  (But I have a short memory and still keep my teak bright on my sailboat.) 

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   Edited 3/18/2007 8:00 pm ET by SteveSchoene

   
   

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   Edited 3/18/2007 8:02 pm ET by SteveSchoene

1. 
   Quickstep | Mar 19, 2007 05:14am | #3

   Steve and IMO,

   Thanks for the input. I had the same feelings about encapsulating the wood; I just didn't think it would really work. The guy who suggested said he completely removes the wood and yes, sprays the clearcoat. I could do that for some, but not all of my teak, but the ends hardly justify the means if the finish gets compromised. Cetol is what's on there now, probably 4 coats in five years. I liked it at first because it lasted, but after four coats, it's more like paint.

    

   How do you think the durability/recoat interval of Epifanes varnishcompares to Cetol?

1. 
   KeithNewton | Mar 19, 2007 05:51am | #4

   Hey Quickstep, I am a long-time sailor too, and have done a bit of work in that field. Personally, I like to just leave my own teak raw. It is so rot resistant, that it really doesn't need anything to make it last. If you are in a climate with a lot of moisture, it may be prone to getting a little dark grudge growing in the open pores, but a 50% bleach sprayed from a garden sprayer will eat that in seconds. follow that with a light sanding will freshen the surface, otherwise it starts getting pitted.If you are going to try to keep it bright, you need to just plan on sanding down the surface each year, and waste that sailing time sanding and putting on a few more coats, or you end up like now needing to strip it down and start over. The epoxy will do as stated, but it breaks down even under a spar or any clear finish, even with UV inhibitors. The best clear UV protection on the market is only capable of delaying the damaging effects of the sun by 50%. Or stated another way, If epoxy breaks down without protection in 90 days, you can get 180 with a good top coat. Now if you get canvass covers, that will do a better job, but that is a hassle too.If you have a west marine store near you, get one of their catalogs, and read their help pages. They give some great advice for the products that they sell.

3. 
   Caldoche | Mar 19, 2007 06:41am | #5

   I'm a wood composite boatbuilder, ie, wood epoxy. My advice, do not put epoxy under any clear finish exposed to UV. Eventually the sun will kill the epoxy and then you will have a BIG job removing it. Epoxy is hard. Under paint epoxy works just great and it will stabilise the moisture content in the wood enough to preserve the surface coating and keep rot at bay. Personally I do not beleive varnish has any place on the outside of a boat, but I do live in the tropics, New Caledonia. Hope this helps. Grant.

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 19, 2007 02:16pm | #6

   The Smith & Co. epoxy isn't hard, it cures to be quite flexible, and the way it is used it penetrates more than building on the surface.  It also has a low temperature version which allows the work to be done before it is warm enough to be missing missing much sailing weather.  I think that will help give a longer life compared to building a coating of higher viscosity epoxy.  But you are absolutely right in thinking that keeping teak bright is a major exercise, and probably indicates a degree of foolishness.  At least I am in New England which helps a lot compared to the tropics. 

   By the way, in my harbor there had been a very attractive West system boat under clear finish that looked very nice over quite a few years--at least until it took a major crunch, on a starting line I believe, that nearly sunk her. 

1. 
   Rich14 | Mar 19, 2007 08:54pm | #7

   Having enjoyed a sailor's two happiest days, the day he buys his boat, and the day he sells it, I do not miss the upkeep on the "bright work" one single bit. In Southern California sun (Dana Point), I had to repair the spar varnish a minumum of every 6 months. And that included teak that was covered by sail cloth covers whenever possible.

   Oh, yeah, sail cloth. Another expensive replacement item.

   My boat dealer had a solution for the entire upkeep expense "problem." He provided his customers with a streamlined form which was to be used once a year. There were only 2 lines.

   1. List Gross Income.

   2. Send.