Replies

1. 
   bigfootnampa | Aug 31, 2006 02:31pm | #1

   Router table is a good idea.  A quarter round bit would do it but usually requires some sanding to fair the seam and doesn't give as uniform a look as the bullnose bits.  Make a fence overlay that has tight clearance and use a handled push block that covers the whole part.  You could rig it to clamp but I'd probably get by with a foam or sandpaper friction surface (similar to a jointer push block).  It is much more forgiving if you can use a slightly larger bullnose bit than the thickness of your stock and live with some corners at the bullnose edges ( like typical drawer sides).  If you need a full half round bullnose you usually have to sand the edges a bit to avoid grooves and shallow corners.

1. 
   piney | Sep 01, 2006 12:20am | #6

   thanks so much for taking time to help...the idea of using a larger size bit (than stock) is  neat.  piney

2. 
   hammer1 | Aug 31, 2006 03:21pm | #2

   From your description, Piney, it sounds like you want to round over the edges, not run a bead on them. I'm thinking you want to use the bullnose so that you can shape both sides on one pass. A couple things come to mind. A bullnose, if you can find one for your purpose, will take a little off the overall dimension of the pieces. To get the full round shape on the edge, the round part of the bit has to remove some of the material. This means your outfeed fence will have to be set in more than the infeed, to allow for the removed material. The same way a jointer is set up. If dimensions are critical, you have to allow for the cut.

   When running stock on a router table, we usually want to run with the grain to prevent chipping out. With the bullnose, it cuts both faces. One the top, it may run with the grain while on the bottom, it could run against. This may not be a big issue with thin stock. You will know after running a few pieces.

   The other issue is blowing out when the bit exits cross grain, on the ends. Normally we do one end grain first, then rotate the work counterclockwise for the long edge, end grain, then finish on the long. If you use a roundover bit, you can remove the bearing or set your fence even with it. Of course this will mean double the passes. The advantage is, you won't lose any size on the piece. The other thing is that you can often run pieces flat to the table or up on edge. This will allow you to run with the grain, if you are experiencing chipping. Personally, I would do the feeding by hand and use a backer. The backer would likely be a piece of stock similar to your work pieces. A square cut backer will hold your work square to the fence and act as a back up when the bit exits. This should eliminate any big chip blow out at the exiting corner. In either case, I like to make a fence for the router table that is tight around the bit, zero clearance. This way, the work can't accidentally dive into a large opening on the fence, especially important on small pieces. 200 sounds like a lot of pieces but once you are set up, it won't take too long.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   piney | Sep 01, 2006 12:29am | #7

   thanks for building my confidence! excellent information carefully explained to a grateful, advanced beginner.  piney

3. 
   ring | Aug 31, 2006 03:23pm | #3

   Use the router table with a zero-clearance fence.  You don't need any special carriers.  Do the end-grain cuts first, then along-the-grain to clean up any tearout.

   A 1/4" bullnose will work fine, but if you use a 1/4" quarter-round bit instead, turning each piece over, you will be able to avoid the tiny shoulders that will inevitably appear on some of the bullnosed pieces.  Twice as many router passes but less sanding cleanup afterwards.

   DR

1. 
   piney | Sep 01, 2006 12:34am | #8

   yes, i will buy the 1/4" quarter-round bit and experiment with it along with the other bits.  thank you very much for your help and time.  piney

4. 
   jackplane | Aug 31, 2006 03:43pm | #4

   200 is whole lot of pieces. With a 1/4 roundover bit in your table, I'd use a 4 or 5" backer board about 8' long, and butt-join as many pieces as you can, to run in one pass.

   This should help.

    

1. 
   piney | Sep 01, 2006 12:37am | #9

   thank you for expanding my thinking and for taking the time to help!  piney

5. 
   Steinmetz | Aug 31, 2006 03:53pm | #5

   Free hand routing:

   Clamp down a wide board Rabbeted in it's centerwith a recess ¼"x5.5"x6.5" for the blank to drop in.
   Tack on four ½"thick strip margens to serve as fences
   Rout anticlockwise.

   For a router table:

   Make the block a snug fit for the blanks. Make the four(parallel) sides about an inch wider all around than the blanks and of ¾" hard wood.
   Place the 'blank' into the mortise's recess (exactly ¼"deep)
   Invert the jig and adjust the router fence to fit the edge of the blank while the router bit is located dead on.
   Traverse the jig in a clock wise direction and rout away.
   Press down while routing Save the jig Steinmetz.

   
   

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   Edited 8/31/2006 9:02 am ET by Steinmetz

1. 
   piney | Sep 01, 2006 12:42am | #10

   my first time asking a question on a web forum..thanks, this is a goldmine!  piney