Replies

1. 
   davcefai | May 11, 2009 07:27am | #1

   Do this:

   Click on the link. You will get the "Not Found" error.
   In the browser Address bar, delete the file name so that you end up with:

   http://www.ecemmerich.com/images/

   and press enter. You now have a list of files. The one you want is called:

   Hinweise_HP.pdf

1. 
   BillMiltner | May 11, 2009 05:07pm | #8

   Thanks I will try those instructions.

2. 
   DustyGeorge | May 11, 2009 05:48pm | #10

   Thanks for the link.  I also have a Primus plane and have downloaded the instructions. 

   BTW for anyone else looking for the file, it is easy to overlook.  Initially the the page appears to be solely a list of images (jpg and gif).  The pdf file is at the end of the numeric listing and the beginning of the alpha listing.

   Thanks again, GeorgeYou don't stop laughing because you grow old.  You grow old because you stop laughing. - Michael Pritchard<!----><!----><!---->

   <!----><!---->

2. 
   derekcohen | May 11, 2009 08:29am | #2

   Hi Bill

   I doubt the problem is with the plane. It is more likely that you have honed a square/straight blade and the corners dig in. This is common with blades honed this way.

   The solution is to camber the blade slightly, or round the corners off. I would try the latter first since this is easier. On my blades, however, I camber them.

   Phil Lowe has a video here: http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id=29711

   Regards from Perth

   Derek

1. 
   BossCrunk | May 11, 2009 01:45pm | #3

   Cambering is actually not the answer.The Primus is manufactured with the mouth having a slight half degree list to the left (on purpose).  The OP can contact me for an article by David Warren, the US distributor of ECE planes, as it details first the 'why' behind this and 'how' to set the plane iron square in the mouth.The correct setup sequence results in the 'formation of a truss' (according to the article) which eliminates lateral movement of the iron.David's address is:David Warren, 7317 Chesterfield Road, Crystal Lake, IL 60012This phone number might work: 312-856-1701this old email address might work: [email protected]

   Edited 5/11/2009 5:22 pm ET by BossCrunk

1. 
   Tony Z | May 11, 2009 03:38pm | #4

   Boss,

   I ain't about to go buy another plane, so, I am not inclined to bother Mr. Warren just to picque my interest with needless chit-chat that won't result in a sale for his company.  But I am curious about this design!  Can you give a more detailed explanation of why the ECE are made that way with an interesting method of securing/adjusting the blade.

   I had a ECE Primus smoother a few years ago, but couldn't get used to the feel, after years of being a metal plane user.  I traded it off and the guy that took it drilled, tapped and inserted set screws in the cheeks of the plane along the blade, ala most Lee Valley planes.  Claimed this added to the precision of setting up the blade.

   Thanks,

   T.Z.

1. 
   BossCrunk | May 11, 2009 05:04pm | #5

   When I have time, I'll retype the paragraph(s) in David's article dealing with setting the iron. The design is intentional and it does work to keep the plane set square in the mouth.

2. 
   BillMiltner | May 11, 2009 05:08pm | #9

   Thanks, I will follow up on that.

3. 
   JeffHeath | May 13, 2009 03:41am | #11

   BC

   Wow!  You typed David Warren's address, and really surprised the heck out of me.  He lives about a half a block away from me!

   Small world!

   Jeff

1. 
   BossCrunk | May 13, 2009 01:52pm | #12

   Here's David Warren on adjusting the iron in a Primus plane:

    

   4. Adjusting Iron  It took more than 90 years before a better adjustment than the Bailey  came along.  Then, a paradigm shift occurred.  The positive Primus adjustment system was patented.  Now, anyone can quickly make depth adjustments of as little as 0.0001. There's no chance of annoying freewheeling, no frustrating backlash slop in the screw, no pushing of the blade back up--nary a hair.  This handy positive depth adjustment makes it the modern-day adjustable plane. <!----><!----><!---->

   To adjust a Primus cutter depth, bring blade above the sole 3/16-inch and tighten the black tensioning knob.  (Once a blade edge is down, even with the sole, it's harder to finger-tighten the spring tensioning knob sufficiently.)  Turn the depth adjustment screw clockwise to lower the blade until it's even with the sole.  The blade assembly slides easily on steel buttons.

   A plane blade's cutting edge must be parallel to the sole.  If it isn't, the iron leaves ridges on the high side feathering to nothing on the low side.  The Primus is specially engineered to hold the iron parallel in use.  E.C.E. designed two features that combine to retain parallelism.  First, all Primus plane irons initially touch the lower left side of the mouth.  Look into the plane throat from the top. Note that the unadjusted blade rests left.  The cause is the small .04-mm pin at the end of the tension rod is bowed slightly left.  To further assure that the plane blade touches the lower left side, E.C.E. fashions Primus blade beds so they are between dead square and canted left one-half degree or so. These two design features link to cause the blade to jut out of the mouth on the left.  <!----><!---->

   Check that the black knob is tight.  Turn plane over and sight down the sole from the front.  From this perspective, the blade protrudes on the right. Turn the chrome depth adjustment until the blade barely shows in the middle.  When sighting down the sole, the right edge is high but not visible on the left.  Keeping the blade tightly bedded, turn plane upright and bring blade parallel.  Swing regulator lever left so the upper part of the blade swings left causing cutting edge to swing right.  This brings the edge parallel and buttresses the upper part of the regulator-bearing surface against the right throat wall. (If needed, tap blade a hair until it's parallel.)  A truss is formed:  tensioning rod pin plus canted bed pull the cutter edge left while the regulator pushes the iron right. This truss prevents lateral movement.  It assures an even chip. <!----><!---->

   5. Small Mouth After adjusting depth, close the mouth opening until it is just wide enough to clear the thickest shaving anticipated.  Any larger mouth opening presents the real danger of the cutter prying up a tiny splinter and leaving a poor surface.  That narrow band of the plane sole parallel to and just in front of the cutting edge compresses and holds the wood down, en‑mass, until the instant the cutter engages.  It arrests any tendency of the iron to raise a splinter.<!----><!---->

   (711 Caution:  Always adjust cutter depth before closing mouth opening.  If you reverse this, if you slide the mouth close, and then screw the blade down, the mouth may be too close.  It may force the cutter edge into the trailing edge of the sliding mouth.  It may splinter it.  Easily fix that crack by epoxying back in place and re-sanding the sole flat.)<!----><!---->

   Take a pass or two on a flat piece of scrap.  The chip reveals your success in tuning.  (See Reading the Chip in InfoLog).  Readjust depth until the shaving is nearly as wide as the blade, so it's sheered evenly across, so it’s translucent....[Message truncated]

   Edited 5/13/2009 7:12 am ET by BossCrunk

1. 
   lwilliams | May 13, 2009 04:55pm | #14

   In part, Charles posted: "no chance of annoying freewheeling, no frustrating backlash slop in the screw, no pushing of the blade back up--nary a hair. This handy positive depth adjustment makes it the modern-day adjustable plane..."

   then after a few paragraphs of tinker, tinker, tinker:

   "...(If needed, tap blade a hair until it's parallel.)..."

   Tap it with what--a hammer? I think you might be on to something there, Charles--a plane you can adjust with a hammer. Imagine that! One question: what happened the "nary a hair?" Thanks for the laugh.

   Edited 5/13/2009 10:16 am by lwilliams

2. 
   BossCrunk | May 13, 2009 08:09pm | #15

   I reposted a portion of David's writeup with his kind permission for the OP who already owns a Primus.

   Feel free to call and debate the relative merits of different plane designs with him.  His contact information is in one of my previous posts in this thread.

   Have a great day.

   Edited 5/13/2009 2:53 pm ET by BossCrunk

3. 
   BillMiltner | May 14, 2009 12:54am | #16

   Thanks a lot for the info, I will try this out this weekend and see if it solves my problem.

2. 
   BossCrunk | May 13, 2009 01:57pm | #13

   Seems like a very nice guy.  I'd make his acquaintance if I were you.

2. 
   BillMiltner | May 11, 2009 05:06pm | #6

   Derek,

    

   Thank you  for your thoughtful reply.  However, that is not the problem.  It is not that the corners dig in, it is that the cut is actually skewed to that side.  The corners of the plane ion have been rouinded.

1. 
   BossCrunk | May 11, 2009 05:07pm | #7

   Bill, read my reply to Derek. I have a fix for you.