Replies

1. 
   Rich14 | Nov 21, 2008 02:54am | #1

   "Is there anything that can be done to get the finish as smooth as a baby's bottom without messing up the sheen of the poly. "

   In order to achieve a fine finish you MUST "mess up" the sheen of the poly. Because that "sheen"and the entrapped dust are the hallmark of a poor finish. You can have anything from a soft matte finish to a mirror sheen. The process begins with leveling the finish. There is no way to know from your description whether you have enough finish down to allow the process to work.

   In general it works like this:

   After sanding the wood and sealing with a specific sealer or a dilute version of the finish itself, letting that dry, and sanding away any raised grain (might take several sealer applications), a full strength coat of finish is applied. That is allowed to dry, harden and it is then level-sanded with 320 grit on a firm rubber sanding block.

   This first leveling must be done very gently or you'll cut through to bare wood. The leveling takes down dust nibs and the highest irregularities of the finish film. Those high spots are like "mountains." They sand off easily, leaving large "valleys" in-between of shiny, finish.

   Another coat is applied and allowed to harden. Then that is gently level-sanded. This time, the abraded areas will be larger and the valleys will be smaller.

   With each application and level sanding, the abraded areas will grow and merge together. The finish must be dry enough to produce a fine powder. If not, it needs more time. Eventually (usually 3-5 coats) it will be possible to achieve a completely flat, uniform abraded, "ground glass" surface with gentle sanding (about the weight of the block and your hand). All the mountains and valleys will have merged into one surface. At that point you have applied enough finish.

   Then you start the "rubbing out" process. Start with 4-0 steel wool. This will give a soft, matte glow. 600 grit and 800 grit wet-or-dry paper with or without a lubricant (mineral spirits or water with a drop of dish washing detergent to a qt) will refine that to a higher gloss.

   Then automotive rubbing compound (red) polishing compound (white) and swirl remover (Meguiar's Scratch-X) will give a mirror polish. Or you can stop at any abrasive level depending on what you like.

   Rich

1. 
   woodworker57 | Nov 21, 2008 04:03am | #2

   You, really know how to hurt a guy's feelings,but seriously, I appreciate your input,  I can continue with the finish on this project from where I am.  I have applied 2 full stregth coats,sanding 220 between the first and second.  It did produce a white dust like you said, so I will keep going.  Thanks----WW 57

1. 
   Rich14 | Nov 21, 2008 04:14am | #3

   WW,It is what it is.Rich

1. 
   woodworker57 | Nov 21, 2008 04:53am | #4

   I have a few wuestions, since I first responded back to you.  I know to stay off of the edges and corners so as not to sand through the finish and stain, but what do you do about rounded surfaces and maybe turned legs where you may not have any flat area?  Do you just use your fingers, obviously you cannot use a block sander? Gimmie all you got bro----WW 57

1. 
   oldusty | Nov 21, 2008 05:57pm | #8

   # 57 ,

             Also for detailed areas you will find that a scotch brite type of pad works super , and they last darn near forever , they are available in different coarseness at your paint supply store .

                dusty

2. 
   woodworker57 | Nov 21, 2008 04:54am | #5

   That should be questions,not westions, my bad---WW 57

1. 
   Rich14 | Nov 21, 2008 05:16am | #6

   WW,No flat sanding block on curved surfaces. Such surfaces are a bit more difficult to "level," but usually less obvious as far as surface irregularities in the finish are concerned. The curves hide the problems, somewhat. It's the wide expanses of flat surfaces where the finish has to be "perfect" or it's very obvious that it's not.On curved and irregular places, uses pieces of sand paper, sponge sanders coated with abrasive (Grizzly, Rockler, Lee Valley), curved foam sanding "blocks" with sand paper, etc.Rich

2. 
   woodworker57 | Nov 21, 2008 05:39am | #7

   That makes good sense, Thanks --------WW 57