Replies

1. 
   JeffKurtz | Dec 04, 2002 02:38am | #1

   Jim,

   If you don't yet have a copy of the booklet Dust Collector Basics, get one.  PVC makes for a fine duct system, and I prefer if to metal since it isn't prone to denting and is much quieter.

   Use 4" schedule 40 sewer line with standard pvc fittings.  (I built mine in sections cemented together, but used screws every 8-10 ft so I can easily take it apart if necessary.)  Instead of the flexible lines they sell for dust collection, get some flexilbe 4" from an RV dealer.  You'll also need a roll of hanger material; plastic is fine.  Your dealer will have the blast gates and adaptors you may need.  Be sure to wrap the entire system with braided copper wire, and ground it to a water pipe.

   That's about all there is to it.  Feel free to email me if you have any questions.

   Jeff

1. 
   tv190s | Dec 04, 2002 10:17pm | #3

   Where can I find Dust Collection Basics? I tried to

   do a search for it and either can't find it or the

   web site isn't found.

   Matt

1. 
   JeffKurtz | Dec 05, 2002 01:42am | #5

   Try this link.  I know other places sell it as well.

   http://www.grizzly.com/products/items-list.cfm?sort=model&User_ID=2837898&St=6104&St2=-46240994&St3=76510636&DS_ID=1&listtype=keyword&keywords=Dust%20Collection&startrow=1

   Ditto on the need to have lots of air flow to your "closet".  Cut out a couple holes large enough to hold a pair of washable electrostatic air filters.

   Jeff

2. 
   user-247493 | Dec 05, 2002 04:28am | #8

   Thanks for the reply Jeff.  I'm glad to hear so many positive replies re pvc pipe.  I'm actually thinking it would be a good idea to run 6" pipe down the centre of the workshop and branch off with 4".  My collector has 1-6" or 2-4" intakes, so I figure I will get better airflow/less restriction with a 6" main line. 

   I really like the idea of buying the hose from an rv dealer.  The stuff from the tool stores is quite expensive.  I suppose I really should break down and buy the book you mentioned.  Generally I like to blunder along on my own until I break something (either myself, my project or my tools).  But the book probably has good ideas for hooking machines to the system as well as designing the system itself.

1. 
   Rogert11 | Dec 13, 2002 02:59am | #18

   Jim,

   Check out http://oneida-air.com. Under the Installations meu choice you can look at a lot of different peoples setups, using their cyclone of course.

   For the best overall info I've found online for dust collection try here: http://cnets.net/~eclectic/woodworking/cyclone/

   Check out his setion on ducting

2. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Dec 04, 2002 08:27pm | #2

   I purchased the remote control from Lee Valley, which I believe is the X10 system.   I have mine installed with 4" PVC drain pipe network & #14 ground wire wrapped around teh outside.  Works great, I would also recommend a 1 micron or less bags, it makes an incredible difference on performance and the amount of dust flying around. 

1. 
   user-247493 | Dec 05, 2002 04:18am | #7

   Thanks for the info, Craig.  How much was the remote from Lee Valley?  I have seen a simple rf remote (like a garage door opener) at House of Tools which sells for $120 cdn.  I'm also contemplating building my own low voltage wired system.  It would use a low voltage circuit and a relay to switch the 220v to the collector.  I thought it would be cool to use microswitches attached to the blast gates, so the collector starts when I open the gate.  I work at a tv station and I've got the engineers designing a system for me.  If it's not too expensive, I'll try the low voltage route.

1. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Dec 06, 2002 02:00am | #9

   If I remember right, the remote(key fob stlye), 120VAC wall outlet, and receiver was around $60 US, approx same as looking at X10.com's website.  X10 has the 220V system. 

   Are you an engineer at the TV station?  I've got 15 years RF, but now making cabinets & custom WW due to the telecom downturn.   You should be able to make a closed loop system for your control on your blast gates- if you have the time.

   Edited 12/5/2002 6:13:31 PM ET by craig

1. 
   user-247493 | Dec 06, 2002 04:48am | #10

   No, I'm a production editor.  No skill required to make commercials and the money's almost as good!  I simply ply them with beer when I need something.

1. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Dec 06, 2002 08:03pm | #15

   That's and international currency.  It's amazing what it's purchasing power is. 

2. 
   bobert26 | Dec 06, 2002 08:07am | #11

   I have my dust collector set up with a low voltage switching system , it works great.  I just used a 24 volt transformer, a relay, thermostat wire, and ordinary light  switches at each location.  Cheap cheap didn't cost more than approx. $35.00 US             

1. 
   user-247493 | Dec 06, 2002 08:26am | #12

   That's very cool.  If you could provide a little more detail, that would be great.  What kind of transformer (make, model?) did you use.  I know very little about them and there seems to be tons to choose from.  Why 24 volt?  Where do you get the 24 volt power?  Hope you don't mind me being nosy. 

1. 
   bobert26 | Dec 06, 2002 09:20am | #13

   The transformer is 110 volts in: 24 volts out, powered from one leg of your 220 volt power supply to the collector, I used 24 volts just because I had a 24v transformer, 12v or whatever would probably work to.  I got the relay from a local  heating supplier.  You want a relay that is activated by 24volts, with a double pole single throw switch, to turn on power to the collector, assuming your collector is 220 volt. I'm in Calgary Canada so part numbers etc probably won't do you much good, best to talk to a local electrical wholesaler. Tell them what you want to do and they should be able to steer you straight. I talked to several electrical engineers about this little project and all I got was blank stares.  (Probably looking for a complex solution  for a simple problem) Then I went to the wholesaler and talked to the guys in the warehouse and they back knew exactly what I needed.  It ain't rocket surgery, but make sure it's safe.

2. 
   Mach70 | Dec 06, 2002 07:50pm | #14

   This picture shows one way such a system can be wired at the DC:

   http://www.wood-workers.com/users/mach70/Shopdustcoll.jpg

   The box on the wall contains the relay for the motor (24VAC coil, DPDT contacts for the 220V line to the DC)  The transformer can be seen mounted to a knockout on the side of the box.  Getting this kind of transformer makes mounting a snap.  The twisted low voltage wires follow the pipe into this closet (I have a small switch mounted on each blast gate) and drop down to the transformer.  They are all common parts but I'm sorry to say I can't recall if I got them all at the borg or had to get some items from a heating/cooling supply.

   Hope this helps.

3. 
   Telemike | Dec 07, 2002 08:35am | #16

   I've used a simple low voltage system for years.  I have an 18 volt (ac) transformer and a 220 relay in a radio shack metal box.  I got the relay and the transformer at an appliance store.  I turn the DC on and off at several stations using either toggle switches on the wall or pull chain lamp switches on the rafters.  It works well.

   I also am putting the DC into a closet, this one outside the garage with the air compressor.  I've put a gable vent into the closet and a 10" x 12" vent into the top and bottom of each of the double doors.

   I'm looking forward to saying goodbye to the dust and noise.

   I'm a little bollixed about grounding the pipe.  I've searched on the Internet and found all sorts of opinions, many negative to grounding plastic pipe.  And the repeated contention that there are no documented explosions in plastic dust collection pipe, but some in the dust bags (along with fires).

1. 
   user-247493 | Dec 07, 2002 10:08am | #17

   I'd like to put the dc outside, but I can't afford to be sucking all that expensive heated air into a Canadian winter. 

   as for grounding, the way I see it is that it can't hurt.  May not make a bit of difference, but for a few bucks' worth of wire, why not?

3. 
   Elcoholic | Dec 04, 2002 11:12pm | #4

   I may ststing the obvious here, but just in case.  Your closet will have to have sufficient openings for the rated airflow.  If you have a 1000 CFM DC you'll need a 1000 cfm's worth of vent area. 

   John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

1. 
   user-247493 | Dec 05, 2002 04:09am | #6

   Yeah, John.  I was going to cover the door with furnace filters.  Should be plenty of airflow.