Not a classic woodworking question – but. Does anyone have a reference that explains why a drywall screw will back out of a wooden stud? My daughter has experienced that in a new home in South Carolina, but I have never seen it in Southern California. Nails yes, screws no.
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Replies
I suspect that what's really happening is that the wood was wet when the drywall was installed, and is now drying out and shrinking, so the portion of the screw that's not in the wood is increasing in length.
-Steve
But it would seem to me that if the wood is shrinking as it will when drying, the screw should follow the wood. The only way the screw exposed length could 'grow' is if it backs out of the wood.
I think Steve is right, and it is wood shrinkage. Most of the studs I saw being installed when working for "a major home builder", were installed as green or "surface dry".
If you want to know for sure go buy a green or "SD" stud from home desperate; run a couple of screws in and leave them about half an inch out. Measure how much they protrude, and then bake the wood in a oven at about 150-degrees for a few hours and remeasure the protrusion. I'm pretty sure it will be sticking out further.
If the threads at the surface of the wood (near the root of the screw) were engaged, and the rest of the threads were not, then yes, the screw would move along with the surface of the wood, and there would be no visible change from the outside.
Conversely, if the threads at the tip of the screw were engaged, and the rest of the threads were not, the in/out movement of the screw would reflect the entire expansion/contraction of the wood between the tip of the screw and the surface.
Reality is somewhere between these two extremes, but the net effect will be to see some movement of the screw.
-Steve
It is shrinkage, the wood around the screw thread, right where it bears against the back of the sheetrock, is drawing back a little bit as the stud shrinks. Two major causes:
1. Using wet wood for construction, I can't believe anyone would do it but it is common practice, it should be illegal.
2. Using screws that are too long, the screw should go no more than 3/4" into the stud, which is why sheet rock screws are 1 1/4" long.
The only good fix is to wait a year or two until the studs dry out and then go around and redrive the screws and then repaint.
John White
Thanks for all the advice! As for use of wet wood in this house, from what I see I am sure that the less, or least, expensive of everything has been used. The "major home builder" today came (the house is one year old) and replaced all obviously protruding screws. But those that were only bumps (that will come out in another year or so) are not fixed but classified as 'homeowner maintenance.'
forrestb
and redrive the screws and then repaint.
Sorry I had to!
I think ya ment.. and redrive the screws, FILL THE HOLES WITH MUD.. Sand level, and then repaint.
You type like I do.. Only 1/3 of the story!
Exactly, I was rushing.John W.
It's called screw pop. The screw doesn't move, the drywall and framing do. When screwing off the sheets, the installer has to push tight to the framing, it doesn't always get done well. The framing contains moisture and will shrink a little. Nailing baseboard, trim, hanging pictures, etc. can push the drywall sheet, if a gap has formed behind it. This makes the joint compound pop out. It's very common and does not reflect poor workmanship, it is a pain. Clean out the loose compound, re-apply and touch up the paint.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
I have seen it where screws will back a little more each year.
Common problem, The screws were too long probably.
Re drive them and get your taping knife out.
Screw pop, nail pop it's all about the incredibly shrinking stud!
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