A neighbor had a maple tree removed from his property and asked the workers to cut two 6″ thick cross-sections from the main truck, which was just under 4 feet in diameter. He then asked me how to make tables using the slabs as table tops. I briefly explained what happens when wood dries, but having just joined this forum was hoping that someone here could suggest a way to proceed. Is there a way to dry this slab so that the checking doesn’t ruin it?
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Replies
Tell your neighbor good luck. I would expect to see a tremendous amount of checking with maple. I've air dried more than 10,000 bf of maple, and wouldn't even try to dry cookies that large.
Hopefully, someone will come along with a tried and true method, like soaking it in alcohol, or something crazy like that. I don't wish to be mean about it, but for every 1 that turns out well, 100 will be cracked and worthless.
Jeff
Soaking in polyethylene glycol might do the trick. Of course it is an alcohol too but I've never heard of using ethyl or methyl alcohol.
Edited 11/5/2008 10:13 pm ET by Tinkerer3
Jeff,
Maybe a more economical approach would be to drink the alcohol rather than soak the wood in it. With that much alcohol in your system, I'm sure the table would look great!Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Jim,
Is there a way to dry this slab so that the checking doesn't ruin it?
When I first read your question what came to my mind was oil, er an oil based product that is. If your neighbor wants to have a finish that doesn't cover up the wood then I'd try an oil based product, not sure which one but hopefully someone more knowledgeable than I will chime in here.
To be honest, I wish I had your/neighbors problem though; I'll bet those slices are gorgeous. Why not celebrate those inevitable checks? Could make for a very interesting table but might depend on the look your neighbor wants. There was an old Japanese guy that was quite successful making furniture - Nakashina methink was his name....................
I'd remove the bark at least,leaving what is called a live edge. Some sections can be cantankerous and may be best to leave alone. I've done this with some cherry burls.
As an experiment I sliced off a good sized bowl shaped portion and simply let it dry. Every once in a while I'd drag it out on the bench and pry out pieces with a screwdriver, nothing sharp. Kinda like a dentist with a blunt instrument, picking away at the plac (bark).
Yeah I know, some might think I's a bit weird but I don't care. Finally I cut the bowl shaped piece in half and made them into bookends. Haven't applied a finish to them yet but want to have them sprayed, perhaps lacquer. I'll tell ye what - those bookends have ended up bein a conversation piece more than once.
Just some ideas for ya but probably not a lot of help with the checking though. Jon Arno would have had a blast helpin ya with it.
Oh, and that Jeff fella who responded. Don't listen to him - he's an old washed up hockey player that can't get any kids to play with him. He thinks he's Gordy Howe!
Hi Jeff!
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Edited 11/5/2008 8:29 pm ET by KiddervilleAcres
Bob,
He spells his name Gordie, not Gordy!!! And it's Bobby Hull, not Gordie Howe!!
LOL
Talk at ya soon!
Jeff
Nothing but bad news from me, too. Some woods can be treated with PEG (Polyethylene Glycol) to reduce or eliminate dimensional changes that lead to checking. However, R. Bruce Hoadley has this to say in his most excellent book, Understanding Wood:
From Chapter 7, Chemical Stabilization, page 137. Are you sure he wouldn't like a nice PacMan-shaped top? ;)
I've wondered about starting with two slices and cutting a relief radius (bark-to-pith) before letting them dry. Then create a full circle from the two dried PacMan shapes (PacMen?). Fill one in with a pie wedge from the other.
Good luck!
---------------
/dev
PEG is old technology, Pentacryl is what you want...
http://www.preservation-solutions.com/faq-pentacryl.php
Most folks don't even know about it but it is far superior and easier to use than PEG.
I read the FAQ, but I still have one question. Is Pentacryl used straight from the bottle, or is it meant to be diluted with water like PEG?
The directions are on the site...
Use it straight!
Pentacryl Directions“The Wood Stabilizer”Pentacryl is a wood stabilizer used by woodcarvers and woodturners to keep green wood from cracking, checking and splitting during the drying process. When the wood is completely dry, it can be stained and finished with either waterborne or oil base products. PENTACRYL is also non-toxic.DIRESCTIONS: For best results, the wood should be wet as in its green state. If the surface of the wood has dried out, wet surface thoroughly by soaking or wrapping in a wet towel for several hours. Use PENTACRYL at room temperature. Shake well before using and read directions completely.There are two methods that can be used. METHOD #1 is to brush PENTACRYL on the wood. METHOD #2 is to soak the wood in a PENTACRYL solution. The brushing method is most preferable if the wood is to be carved over a period of time. The soaking method is recommended for small items that are to be carved in a short period of time.METHOD #1 (BRUSHING): After carving is finished for the day, brush on repeated coats of PENTACRYL until the wood will no longer absorb anymore. Next, wrap the carving in a dampened cloth and cover with plastic. Repeat process after each day’s carving. When carving is completed, periodically apply coatings of PENTACRYL again, until the wood will no longer absorb anymore. End grain areas require more applications of PENTACRYL due to higher absorption.METHOD #2 (SOAKING): The soaking method is recommended for small pieces that are to be carved in a short period of time, although it can be used for larger pieces. Be sure to keep wood damp prior to soaking with PENTACRYL. Place carved piece in a plastic, fiberglass or glass container (metal containers are not recommended). Be sure to cover entire piece with PENTACRYL (do not dilute). The allotted time for soaking should be 24 hours for each inch of thickness. After soaking the allotted time, drain and proceed to drying.DRYING: drying time varies depending on relative humidity, temperature, and type of wood and size. Ideal drying conditions are 50-70°F with relative humidity at 40-60%. Do not dry in direct sunlight, extreme or direct heat, nor under 30% or over 70% relative humidity when possible.FINISHING: When the wood is determined dry, clean the surface with a mineral solvent or use SOLVITOL (a very safe, odorless solvent with a flash point above the combustible range of 200°F). Before staining or finishing, make sure surface is clean and dry.DISCLAIMER: Being that wood is a natural material and is susceptible to varying degrees of shrinkage, reaction, deterioration and because of varying climatic conditions, varying experience of the user and may be applied under conditions beyond our control, as seller, we make no warranty expressed or implied as to this material or its use. All information stated here in is accurate to the best of our knowledge and is based on thorough testing.KEEP OUT OF THE REACH OF CHILDRENDeveloped and Manufactured by:
PRESERVATION SOLUTIONS
1060 Bunker Hill Road
Jefferson, ME 04348
Ph. (207)563-5414 Fax (207)563-2543
Thanks, RickL, and to everyone who responded. It seems like the brushing method of applying Pentacryl might be something to try, but I'm concerned about the weight of the slab. The procedure, presumably, would be to brush this stuff on regularly (daily?) for some period of time until the slab will no longer absorb any more. Currently the slab is extremely heavy, way more than I can lift by myself and it would be a struggle even for two strong people. If the pentacryl is essentially replacing the water in the slab, does that mean it will be just as heavy when the process is over as it is now? Jim
Jim, If you want to try something that doe not cost anything, I would suggest that you cut out a hole in the heart. You could fill that back in later. Still, fast drying will be ;your enemy, so after taking out the heart, I would put it in a cardboard box for about a year.
Q: Will wood treated with PENTACRYL weigh more when it is dry?A: The wood will weigh only slightly more when the wood is dry. A cubic foot of wood will weigh approximately 10-12 ounces more than wood that was untreated.All you need to know is on their site...
Thanks. I could see it was implied in the instructions, but I was looking for an explicit statement. I missed this bit: "Be sure to cover entire piece with PENTACRYL (do not dilute)."
Jim,
How much $$ is available to prevent this from checking? Normally, when I dry soft maple, I seal the end grain with a heavy coat of wax and expect to cut off two inches of checking or so from each end. Quite often the checking is less than that, but I don't like to get my hopes too high. I have heard of soaking it in a moisture-displacing liquid such as denatured alcohol. That, however, can get expensive. A turner named Ron Kent http://www.ronkent.com/techniques.php discovered that Kirkland (Costco) dishwashing detergent works just as well as alcohol and costs a lot less. While I personally have not used this technique, I know some turners who have and they confirmed that it does work.
Whatever you decide to do, let us know how it turns out.
Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
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