Drum sander conveyor belt options
I’m looking for opinions on conveyor belt options for my Performax 16-32.
I had a shop accident this weekend. I had a half gallon can of shellac leak all over the belt.
I said to myself as I set the can on the belt, “you better not leave that there, what if it leaks” but did I listen? Noooooo! Anyway, I need a new belt, the other was worn and delaminating anyway. I have been looking about and they can be had for about 50-60 bucks, but Amazon caries a poly belt for about 100 clams, shipped.
Has anyone tried one of these poly belts and have an opinion?
PS, I ended up needing another speed control too, since it cooked as soon as I turned it on and I finally found one at KB controls.com, Pt# KBVC-14. Surprisingly reasonable.
Replies
I have a poly belt on a 16/32. I Bought it to replace the tired sandpaper belt.
Good:
Seems to stay centered better.
Won't leave scratches
Should last "forever"
Not so Good:
The smooth surface of the belt allows wood to slip as it's being fed unless you apply gentle downward pressure. I tightened the infeed pressure, which helps some. It still slips a bit though. It's possible that the belt will get less slick as it gets dirtier, but it's an issue.
I still like it better. Despite the slipping, it's nice to know that the belt won't self destruct it it goes off center.
Thanks, that's what I needed to know. I see the aftermarket belt smooth on top vs the old performax branded poly belt which I believe is bumpy (but at 500 bucks a pop, they can keep it).
Slipping would be an issue for me since it creates burns and divots if the feed speed is not consistent. I haven't had this thing long and the belt was worn when I got it since it had seen a lot of use. It took me awhile to get used to it.
The man who gave it to me said that I should think of it as a dimensioning tool and not as a finishing tool. It works great on small pieces and figured wood. Great with soft maple! With that thought in mind, I don't have an issue with small scratches on the back, since I run 80 and 120 grit exclusively and finish up with a ROS. Thanks, MichaelEdited 5/18/2009 10:10 am ET by Michael666
Edited 5/18/2009 10:11 am ET by Michael666
Well, I ordered a 100 grit belt from an online supplier and it sucks big time. The belt is glued up about 1 mm out of alignment causing it to track hard right. I can keep the belt in one spot, if I leave so much slack in the LH side that the belt flops around. (tight on the right, very loose on the left). I would try to return it except for the hassle and the fact that I've damaged it trying to get it to track. To even attempt to use it I'm going to have to raise the bed so the belt doesn't drag on the underside.You say the poly belt allows stock to slip? ... how bad is it? Michael
Wow Michael, that definitely goes on my "don't try this" list. I wouldn't even have guessed that the vapor would burn hot enough to fry the components.Anyway, the poly belt does allow the wood to slip a little unless I apply gentle downward pressure on the board being sanded. The problem is that the poly belt is a little too smooth to overcome the friction from the sanding drum. Perhaps this will get better with time.Otherwise, it's fine. As I said before, it's much easier to track and seems to stay that way. It should also last the life of the machine.David B
Thanks for the response.The burning vapor did no direct damage. I assume that the ignition of the vapor "struck an arc" allowing the formation of a conductive area of gas. This shorted out the board and burned some of the copper foil off of the board too. vaporized!! I once saw a pigeon bridge 2 high tension lines with its wingtips. It was like staring at a welding arc, a really really big welding arc! It continued for a few seconds after the bird fell out of the air. It stopped when the fuse/breaker tripped. I read somewhere that when the poly belt starts slipping, just wipe it with a damp rag. BTW, how thick is your belt anyway?Michael
It's a little thicker than a sandpaper belt, I guess 50% thicker. Thanks for the suggestion of wetting the belt. I'll try that next time it gets used. I also thought about scuffing it to give it more "tooth" but I don't want to screw it up.I'd be interested to see what your experience is like if you get one. My Performax is oldish, so it could be a function of the machine as well.Best of luckDavid B
Have you tried to soak the belt in alchol to desolve the shellac???
the old belt was worn out and delaminating. Its completely separated at the seam now, due to my experiments.As to the alcohol, yes, that's the first thing I did and in a panic to rotate the belt so I could get at the stuff on the underside, I turned on the belt motor. That's when the speed control exploded. I can only assume that the electrical box contained a combustible mixture of denatured alcohol fumes and when I switched it on, the switch arced and ignited the mix, resulting in sustained arcing on the circuit board. It got cooked pretty good and a 60A breaker tripped as a result.
Holy flashover Batman!!!
The electric and flamable solvents don't mix too well. I hope you didn't in the flash. I was under the assumption, yeah, don't assume, that the belt was off the machine. I hope you can pick up the pieces and fix the machine. Good luck.
Ya, I already got another controller from KB electronics.
I tried the Jet website, but their parts service is apparently broken . Their loss.
Edited 5/26/2009 10:00 am ET by Michael666
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