Replies

1. 
   RickL | Apr 04, 2005 09:54pm | #1

   17" swing means it's 8-1/2" from the post to the center of the chuck. Basically it means you can drill a hole in the center of a 17" piece.

1. 
   jackhall | Apr 04, 2005 11:15pm | #2

   OK, thanks a lot.  Other than power, what do you think are other key specs to look for? For example, the Grizzly I was looking at had 12 speeds.  I don't want to spend money on that particular feature.  I figure 3 or 4 speeds would be adequate.

   I understand you can add  mortising attachments on a modern drill presse.  Do these things really work or should I only look at dedicated mortising machines?

1. 
   RickL | Apr 04, 2005 11:30pm | #3

   Get the twelve speeds.  You don't know what speeds you really need at this point. Let's put it this way...you should have a range of 200 to 2000 for a variety of needs between large wood bits, fly cutters  up to faster speeds for sanding and drilling small holes.  You might use only four speeds but you don't know which four yet, so keep your options open. Drilling metal and wood should be considered a must.   Forget the mortiser attachment. I say forget chisel mortisers entirely and get a horizontal slot mortiser. The Grizzly G-0540 can be used as one with a bit of loctite on the chuck.

2. 
   mike4244 | Apr 05, 2005 02:41am | #4

   Buy a drill press with a quill lock and threaded rod depth adjustments. 3/4 hp , 12 or 16 speeds.Stand alone machines are my preference over bench tops.I would not bother with mortice attachments. Either use a router to make the mortice or bore overlapping holes with a forstner bit. The mortice can be cleaned up with a chisel or an end mill in the drill press. End mills are similar to a spiral router bit, flat bottom holes and they clean up the sides nicely.End mills are run at the fastest drill press speed you have available. A cross slide vice is a good accesory for you. Very handy with end mill use.

   Grizzly carries the cross slide vice and various end mills. 2 flute end mills seem to work best in wood for me.Unless you do enough mortice and tenon work to warrant a morticeing machine i wouldn't bother with it.

   mike

1. 
   jackhall | Apr 05, 2005 08:05pm | #6

   "End mills are run at the fastest drill press speed you have available"

   I have never used an end mill.  Do I use one in the drill press like a router table where I slide the workpiece along the tool?  Running the drill press at full speed would I need any sort of additional guide fences on the drill press table?  I assume I would lower the end mill into the roughed out mortise while its running, clamp the height and then push the workpiece along to the end of the mortise. 

1. 
   HWG | Apr 05, 2005 08:37pm | #7

   Look at how the table height adjusts, and how it locks.  Some have a crank, some are just a clamp on a sliding column.  The crank is easiest.  Consider if a tilt table is important to you.  A tilt lets you drill angle holes; on the other hand it is something to have to keep in adjustment that you may rarely use.  A couple of good drill press vises and hold downs are useful as well, and these could provide your tilt when needed.  The quill lock and depth adjustment are important.

   Woody 

2. 
   BG | Apr 05, 2005 08:49pm | #8

   Jackhall,
   Give a look at the 17" radial drill press (ie. 34" swing)..both Grizzly and Rikon (sp?) have floor models. They are exceptionally handy for woodworking because you can clamp the stock and move the drill point to your stock...and move the drill again for succesive cuts .
   Also, I've had an occasion where I moved the completed piece over to the drill press and drilled off of the table. Lastly, because the head rotates both ways, it is easy to set up for drilling holes on a compound angle 

3. 
   mike4244 | Apr 05, 2005 11:43pm | #9

   In short, yes to all your questions. Use a fence or with shorter stock use a cross slide vice. The end mill can be thought of as a steel spiral router bit. I have never sharpened one myself but understand that it is easy to do. Router bits have to be sent out or replaced. You can make an XY table and use that for morticing. I made one years ago, got it someplace in the shop. A google search could provide better info on how to make one than I can.

   I have heard of but not seen myself of making a yoke that tightens around the quill, a router is mounted to a base that connects to the quill.This would work as an overhead router. The router does the cutting, the DP sets the height. Another google search here. Be aware that the stock would have to be pushed from left to right when cutting edge profiles. The same as hand held routing, but opposite of a router table.

   End mills are inexpensive, they do an excellent job of morticeing. They are limited in length, from 2" in the smaller  diameters; up to 3" in 1/2" dia. Check out G9757 10 pc set ,2 flutes $23.95 in the Grizzly catalog.

   mike

2. 
   JohnSD | Apr 05, 2005 05:44pm | #5

   I agree with MIKEK4244. I use the quill lock and/or depth stop nearly every time I use the drill press. As for the speeds, better to have them and not need them, than to need them and not have them.  Have fun, JohnD

3. 
   tailsorpins | Apr 06, 2005 09:43pm | #10

   If you've never had a drill press with a 5 1/2" to 6" stroke, you won't miss it!  If you have been spoiled by one, it's a feature you'll miss.  A low-end chuck can be upgraded with a ball-bearing Jacobs from Grainger or Enco.  A foreign made Delta mortising attachment ($75 or less) is nice when you need it, and it doesn't require it's own bench to rest upon when you aren't using it.  I've gotten by with 1/2 HP & only four speeds for 30 years and don't feel handicapped.  A true running spindle/chuck is absolutely necessary .... and place a muffler clamp or similar clamp on the column just below the headstock if you ever plan to loosen it to pivot around ... otherwise your fingers are in jeopardy.  Good Luck,

   John