Replies

1. 
   RickL | Apr 08, 2008 08:48pm | #1

   A better way is to use the principal of the Jessem miter guide but mount the  guide bar on the front of the router table. You can buy bronze bearings for a couple bucks each and a 24" piece of 3/4" steel shaft for maybe $25. I've done this on other applications. Plus it swings out of the way. Much better in the long run instead of drawer slides. If i was to use drawer slides I would mount it on the front edge of the router table and have an L shaped sled. The long part of the L would be on top of the table and the short arm of the L would hang over the front edge of the router table and be connected to the drawer slide. It would easily be removable.

1. 
   carver | Apr 08, 2008 11:42pm | #2

   Yeah but the drawer guide would be ball bearing and is what $18-20. Comes with mounting holes. Would mount flush with the top in a dado.

1. 
   RickL | Apr 10, 2008 06:39pm | #6

   Actually a 36" piece of drill rod and pair of 1/2" bronze bushings would be around $12 and be far better and tighter than a drawer slide. A good quality drawer slide would work fine though. I know someone who made a similar slot mortiser as featured in FWW 141 for the cross slide table and it was pretty impressive. Guess you never saw that issue.

1. 
   carver | Apr 10, 2008 10:03pm | #7

   have to go back and look thanks

2. 
   [email protected] | Apr 09, 2008 07:19am | #3

   Personally, I don't like anything, even a miter slot in the top of a router table. 

   Sleds that reference off the front of the table are quick, easy, and inexpensive to make, and always end up true to the bit. 

1. 
   carver | Apr 09, 2008 11:08pm | #4

   I understand what you are saying. The miter slot does allow use of plastic feather boards and miter slot jigs do control deflection away from the bit. The front edge reference jig would be quick and easy but how do you build the jig so that the workpiece can be clamped to it? I loike to clamp my work piece to the jig. Would a bit like a lockmiter would have to be raised above the table surface more?

1. 
   [email protected] | Apr 10, 2008 01:54am | #5

   For the base plate, I use 1/4-inch MDF, for temporary ones, and lexan for permanent ones.  So, it will raise the surface by the 1/4-inch. 

   I start by attaching the guide, which is usually just a piece of straight "1x2", or what ever is around in the scrap pile about a foot long.  I then run the platform across the router table and trim the edge using the router.  This gives an edge parallel to the front of the table. 

   Then using a square, I line up a "fence" that is a little higher than the part I intend to make.  I get it lined up and hold it in place with double stick tape.  I then turn the sled upside down, and attach the fence with two or three flathead screws.  This fence overhangs a tad so it gets trimmed by the router bit, to match the cut and help minimize tear out.  If I want a hold down or two, I attach DeStaco clamps to the fence. 

   For feather boards, I just screw them onto a piece of scrap plywood, and then clamp the ends of it to the table. 

   I would suggest that you get a copy of Bill Hylton's, "Woodworking With the Router", and his "Router Magic".  They are two of the best written books on the router: how to use it safely; and, accessorize it that I have found.   Lots of plans for jigs, router tables, even a router lathe very similar to the Legacy mill that cost over $1000.

3. 
   terryb | Apr 14, 2008 11:28pm | #8

   Ball bearing guides typically get gunked up with sawdust & wood chips making them inaccurate and hard to slide. I built a slot mortiser using skate bearings and have had problems keeping junk off the tracks ever since i started using it. I think the bronze bushing idea is probably a very good alternative if you're able to mount the shafts proberly. Good luck

1. 
   carver | Apr 15, 2008 03:56am | #9

   Good points.

1. 
   RickL | Apr 15, 2008 02:46pm | #10

   See if you can find American Woodworker #106.  There was a great article on making a router lift using oilite bronze bearings and steel shafting. The rods and beairngs were arounf $25 for 36" of rod and 4 bearing. The application is very has lots  of other applications for shop tools including slot mortisers, coping sleds for router tables and shapers as well as a sliding table for a table saw. The article shows simple ways to make bearing holders and is well within the skills of most hobby woodworkers. The bronze bushings are better than the drawer slides and the cost is far less than going the route of linear bearings which is far overkill for this application.