Replies

1. 
   terrylee86 | Mar 10, 2008 05:32am | #1

   Carver,

   Try Hettich Quattros from Chair City Supply. Half the price of Blum with Blumotion and I think they are great for undermounts. If you want bb sidemounts get KV 8400's from WW HDW. Supply. I have a little trick on side mounts if you don't want the metal to be seen in the gap.

1. 
   Jfrostjr | Mar 10, 2008 03:45pm | #2

   Maybe my problem was that I ordered direct from Hettich - but after 3 tries they never got the order complete. Some part was always missing. I finally canceled and went with Blum. Easy to install; they work great.Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922

1. 
   terrylee86 | Mar 11, 2008 04:34am | #4

   I got mine from Chair City Supply and couldn't be happier. I had one side get damage in shipping and I called them and they ship a pair that day. I have use KV 8400 sidemounts for years but I wanted to try undermounts and I saw the Hettich down in Amish country in IN. This is the first time I have used them and they work like a charm. I have not used the Blum with blumotion but I tried to order them from WW HDW a while back and they told me they were all on recall and they would not sell me the stock they had. They said Blum was having a heck of a time with the Blumotion. They must have got the bugs out.

2. 
   carver | Mar 24, 2008 12:46am | #6

   Thanks what is the trick

1. 
   terrylee86 | Mar 24, 2008 11:14pm | #10

   The trick is simple.  Mount your drawer glides on 1/4" ply or solid stock (I use solid resawed) and the hardware will not be visible through the  1/16" space for your flush drawer fronts.  I build the drawer box 1/2" narrower, pin and glue the 1/4" spacers on the carcass sides,( if you are using face frames, fir it out so it is 1/4" narrower than the opening), mount the hardware and fit the drawer, then I place the drawer fronts in the flush opening with 1/16" spacers on the bottom corners and both side corners.  I mark where my drawer handles are going to be and drill and screw a 1-1/4" cabinet screw right through the face.  Then I take the drawers out and drill and screw the drawer box to the face on all four corners and the middle if it is over 24".  When you look through the spacer gaps you see only wood and no hardware.  I wish I would have figured this out 4 chests ago.  This only works if you use separate drawer fronts and is only needed on inset drawers. 

    How do you like the Blum undermounts?  I use Hettich this last set of dressers.  I am going to try Blumotion now that they have the bugs worked out.

2. 
   wfred | Mar 10, 2008 04:29pm | #3

   I am building a kitchen for my new home and went with blum full extention slides with blumotion.  You can get a specific locking device for the drawer that is adjustable so the drawer closes perfectly flush with the face of the cabinet.  There is nothing better in my opinion.  I checked out the KV slides because they were a little cheaper but I noticed that you get what you pay for.  The KV slides were not nearly as smooth and didn't want to pull the drawer closed.  You won't be disappointed with the Blum slides, they are on sale right now at woodworker's hardware, I bought 5 cases for my kitchen.

   Fred

3. 
   gofigure57 | Mar 11, 2008 03:15pm | #5

   when you say full inset , do you mean with an applied draw face or the draw box front end as the finished end. the reason I ask is when I built my kitchen I through dovetailed my draws so the pin ends were visible from the draw face, though unorthrodox , visually pleasing.The slides I had purchased were Blum Tandems pre blue motion. After routing approximately 30 draws all corners and assembling I faced the challenge of mounting these slides on inset draws without an applied face or lipped edge. Quite challenging, but it worked. my goal was to have draw box slide in flush with faceframe without an applied face. Anyhow the Blums worked fine.

1. 
   carver | Mar 24, 2008 02:49am | #7

   Well, either. The key element is that there is no overlap of the drawer face over the cabinet face frame.

   This means that any hardware mounted in the drawer opening will be potentially visible with the drawer closed. Also, any hardware screwed into the sides of the drawer opening will affect the size of the drawer front or the front will have to be relieved to prevent the hardware (drawer guide) from interfering with drawer closing

1. 
   gofigure57 | Mar 24, 2008 05:09am | #8

   Carver, I looked a you picture in the other post you made on this topic earlier. When I did my kitchen I came to the conclusion that there are no slides out of the box that will work in this application. Here are some pics of what I did. Note that I had purchased all the slides and built the boxes as per blum specs for height and width. These were pre blumotion, selfclosing tandems, I had never used this slide before and was not familar with the specs on them. I had to add the beading to the face frame and mill the draws to fit. Someone else around here might know of a simpler way. PIA to make a draw look like it has no hardware. Good luck. Thomas Love.

   Edited 3/23/2008 10:10 pm ET by gofigure57

   
1. 
   carver | Mar 24, 2008 06:17pm | #9

   Nice work. I think you understand better than most of the other posters. In addition I am retrofitting so do not have access to the complete inside of the cabinet. Also looks like you had to lose a lot of drawer volume?

1. 
   gofigure57 | Mar 25, 2008 01:24pm | #11

   I guess the question is what type of draw are you using, applied face or box type as I used. Terrylee 86 described applied face technique. As far as draw volume those are just small draws.