Replies

1. 
   ron61 | Jan 09, 2003 01:21am | #1

   I was looking for some advise myself. Check out this link.

   http://www.lie-nielsen.com/index.html?cart=104138013960384

2. 
   Alan | Jan 09, 2003 03:11am | #2

   Dave,

   I got myself a Lie-Nielsen/Independence dovetail saw some time back.  It is worth every penny.  The teeth are filed rip and have very little set.  With the thin steel of the blade my saw cuts easily and tracks straight.  I recommend the LN without hesitation.  I've heard very good things about the Adria dovetail saw; it's in the same price range as the LN, though a few dollars cheaper.

   Alan

3. 
   NickC | Jan 09, 2003 10:00am | #3

   I have used the Lie-Nielsen saw for several years. (Mine is actually an Independence, but the company was bought by LN.) I don't see how you could ask for more from a saw--it's a great tool. I always found the Japanese saws to be a bit fragile for hardwood--especially the half-inch oak or maple I use for drawers. Nick

4. 
   timberrattler | Jan 09, 2003 05:39pm | #4

   LN will also take the saw back and resharpen it for you when the time comes(for a small fee). I know everyone will say just buy a file and do it yourself. But with the limited time I have in the shop, I'd rather be cuttin than filing. Also if your going to spend the dough on the LN go for the extra $25 and get the rosewood handle it just looks awesome. The Adria cuts great not as refined as the LN, it definately has the look and feel of a handmade saw. The handle is cocobolo. You may have to wait awhile to get one though. The guy up there in Canada makes them to order.

5. 
   Azeddie | Jan 09, 2003 05:56pm | #5

   I just finished cutting DT's for 2 drawers , walnut and ash sides...

   I have a LN DT saw also...Best there is! I recommend thier saw too

    for cutting away the side waste I just use a small dosuki Japanese

   makinsawdust
6. 
   dpw32 | Jan 09, 2003 06:45pm | #6

   Looks like it is going to be a fairly easy choice.  Everyone seems to agree on the LN.

   Thanks to everyone for the advice.

   Dave

1. 
   sorethum1 | Jan 10, 2003 12:25am | #7

   These guys know more than I do, but I bought an inexpensive dozuki saw from Garret Wade, and I can't believe how well it cuts--straight and like butter.  I honestly didn't know a saw could cut so easily. Todd

2. 
   b1gcountry | Jan 10, 2003 09:47pm | #9

   I've tried the LN offering, and it really isn't all that much better than the one I already had. Woodcraft sells this saw with a blue-ish blade for about $15 that is very servicable. I don't remember the name, but I know I got it at Woodcraft. You will have to spend about 5 minutes reducing the set, but at 1/10 the price of the LN, its time well spent. To do that, just lay the blade flat on a medium stone, and take off a little amount of set on both sides. Saw a kerf in a board, and watch the cut. If it strays to one side, that side has more set than the other, and you need to take some off that side. Now stick the end of the blade (with no teeth) in the saw kerf, and see how tight the fit is. You want it to fit so it goes in easy, but doesn't slide all around. For the savings, I think it is well worth the time, and even if you do wind up with the LN, you have a saw you can use when you don't want to foul up your nice one.

   Tom

1. 
   tailsorpins | Jan 10, 2003 11:06pm | #10

   I tend to agree with bigcountry: try the others!

   Over $100 is NOT a good deal on a hand saw.  There are twenty or more old tool sellers that can send along a reconditioned dovetail saw that will perform as well or better, for a fraction of that amount. 

   Even the new saws offered by the catalog houses will perform admirably right out of the box.  You can fine tune them with an oilstone as he suggests.  I don't find the totes on the new Stanley, or Disston saws comfortable so I don't recommend them.  Personally, I prefer the older saws, having cut thousands of dovetails with an ancient 6" Bishop backsaw with closed tote.

   Give the oldies a try!

   John in middle Tennessee

1. 
   Petey | Jan 11, 2003 06:53am | #11

   John, Iwould like to give those old tool sellers a try. I agree, 100.00 for a handsaw is a lot of hard earned . Could you give a list   Petey

1. 
   tailsorpins | Jan 11, 2003 04:57pm | #12

   First, I'd start here: http://www-2.cs.cmu.edu/~alf/en/en.html

   then I'd visit: http://www.mwtca.org/

   and while you're there, find an old tool meet near you and check them out (you'll have to join, but the membership $ is paltry, returns fantastic). 

   As I've posted elsewhere:  In obtaining pristine examples of tools, these collectors end up with an accumulation of very nice user quality tools that they sell for a fraction of the cost of new.  Not all of them need tuning up, as most were retired from active service, acquired at estate sales, and may need only sharpening to return to service.  Good luck. 

2. 
   Petey | Jan 11, 2003 05:16pm | #13

   Thanks loads, I just don't have the time to visit those estate sales and yard and garage sales where those old toools are lying about     Petey

7. 
   RickL750 | Jan 10, 2003 08:59pm | #8

   Dave, I can’t give you any suggestions on western style saws because I stopped using them about fifteen years ago. While in Okinawa, Japan a friend introduced me to a dozuki and never went back to western saws.

   I like the thin blade, the cut on the pull it gives me better control and it goes along ways between sharpenings. 

   I’m telling you about Japanese saws not because I want you to get a Japanese saw, but I think you first need to look of the way you work and the type of work you do and then decide. If possible try the tools before you commit your self to a purchase. One more thing yes! Japanese saws are primarily use for softwoods because in Japan they really don’t have hardwoods other than imports, but saying that you should also know they are so well made I've used them on ash and maple, although my primary wood is cherry and never had a problem. Below I’ve included a link to more info.

   Good luck,

   Rickl

   http://www.thejapanwoodworkercatalog.com/c/g8/index.html

   P.S. Beware of imitations there are plenty of them out there. As for Lie-Nielsen saws if they are as good as their other products you can’t go wrong.

8. 
   mrles | Jan 12, 2003 09:53am | #14

   Dave

   If you are just starting out I would suggest trying the Japanese pull saw. I bought one a few years ago, not for dovetails but just to try out. I had it a couple of years before I started using it to cut dovetails. It cuts a very thin kerf and I have better control pulling than pushing I feel like. I paid less than $30.00 for it and I've used it a lot. I have cut dovetails in red oak, cypress, pine, walnut and cedar. Its missing a few teeth but I can't really tell any difference in performance. I have a new one in a drawer waiting to replace the old one. The saw I bought I don't think you could resharpen. I'm sure the LN is a very fine saw as a few post have said maybe one day I will try one.

   Now Dave I'm one of those guys that is not a one way woodworker. I woodwork for pleasure only, to cut dovetails I use my bandsaw, my pull saw, and a chisel. Whatever is the easiest for me I use.

   I read something one time " dovetails only fit once ". The first time you put them together that is the best fit you are going to get, if you have cut them correctly. I have found this to be true.

   Good Luck and God Bless

   les