Replies

1. 
   joinerswork | Jan 29, 2008 02:05am | #1

   Dubie,

   I've seen the following on old work:

   No escutcheon on mating door

   Escutcheon applied to door, stile showing thru kethole

   Escutcheon applied to door, wood inside keyhole painted black

   Escutcheon applied to door, blind hole drilled partway thru door in lieu of keyhole

   I've seen "escutcheons" with key shank and bow made of a piece with the plate, in catalogs-- these aren't proper as far as I know; I've never seen one of these as original hardware on a period piece.

   Ray

    

1. 
   Dubie | Feb 11, 2008 07:10pm | #8

   Thanks for your in put.  I will send a pic out soon, I have decided to simply put in an escutheon and drill a fake hole in it so it'll 'look like it fits a key".

   At least the doors will be balanced.

2. 
   danmart | Jan 29, 2008 03:50am | #2

   Bill

   What a coincidence. I just set the lock in the right door of the project you are describing. I agonized over the lock that Lonnie uses from Ball and Ball(actually the little bugger is made in England). The selvage distance is 5/8" from the rear edge. This is taking in to account the 1/4 rabbet cut on the inside edge of the door. It brings the key hole a bit further to the center of the stile but still it is closer to the outer edge and not centered. ?? Awkward.. I guess not???.

   As Ray said, this decision is wide open. In the case of the LB cabinet(I think based on an Orion piece) there are two escutcheon plates and the key holes are cut out. The left door key hole(false lock) is not drilled completely thru but it is drilled to look like a lock is used on the left door?? Can't explain that one.

   Love to hear how you are doing on your project. I am moving slowly as I have 3 other commissions to complete on a time schedule.

    

   
   

   ---

   Edited 1/28/2008 7:54 pm ET by danmart

   
1. 
   mapleman | Jan 29, 2008 04:57am | #3

   Dan,

   I'll tell you like I tell the girls at the strip clubs:

   Nice Crotch!

   Seriously, let's see some pics when you get that thing up and running.

   Lee

1. 
   danmart | Jan 29, 2008 08:55pm | #4

   Maple

   This is a slow one. No urgency. I have built the top case first unlike the LB path. I don't think it makes any difference but it was all driven by the search for one-piece crotch boards. I landed some wood for the panels(12w  x  33l) so I decided to do the top. This guy takes up a bunch of space and I am in the middle of 2 large desks bookcases already(one curly and one cherry). Total of 3- all different.

   The maple one is due out first so there is a bit of a crunch here.

   I cut all the molding, feet, door stiles and rails and small stuff to put in a pile. I built the bookcase box and cut the grooves. Last weekend I mortised in the lock so I am close to glue-up on the doors. With the doors built and all the hinges already mortised, I'll attach them to the face boards and set up the bookcase. Should be straight forward.

   I am heading back to Virginia to see a man about a 17"wide crotch board for the desk lid. This has been a challenge. Finding a 36"long figured walnut board that is flat or has enough wood to plane to 7/8 and stay flat enough to cut tenons and apply a breadboard is... a challenge. Hey what else are you going to do?

   
1. 
   bones | Jan 29, 2008 11:21pm | #5

   Mind if I ask how deep the groove for your panels are, and how much of a gap do you leave for movement?Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.

1. 
   danmart | Jan 30, 2008 07:21am | #7

   bones

   I leave a good size gap on the sides and take some off the arc hidden in the groove. Here in North Carolina it gets pretty humid. I think the boards are as narrow as they will get(dry winter) so I am more concerned with the expansion in the summer.

   I can't say exactly. I cut a 1/4" wide groove and 5/16 depth. I fit the panel fairly snug then plane the back so the panel can move in the slot but not rattle when the door is opened and closed. Last step is plane the sides for a good gap and spoke shave the arc edge. I keep the panel fairly tight top to bottom in the center of the arc and the center of the bottom edge.

   dan

2. 
   mapleman | Jan 30, 2008 06:24am | #6

   Dan,

   I remember your search for the crotch boards some time ago. You definitely found the ideal set. Those doors will be breathtaking. I can't wait to see more of the piece.

   Cheers,

   Lee

2. 
   Dubie | Feb 11, 2008 07:20pm | #9

   Wow, beautiful wood panel.   I wish I had those pieces.  Thankd for your comments. I will post a picture soon.

   As abeginner I am learning but am having trouble getting the best possible stock for my projects.  Do you vist speciual mills .  Virginia is a long way for me to go.

   I need to visit some better lumber yards/mills to get the best and select stock, I guess.  I go to Downes and Reader here outside Boston.   I have to pick pieces from a large stack and seldom are pieces from the same tree. Seldom uniform and this is an issue when building dressers, desks and the like.  Things I liike to make 

   I like highly figured maple .  I have had problems with black stains in some pieces of wood which at times don't show up until after I mill and prepare.  It is too expensive to throw away but I had to on occassion. On the Glen Huey PA desk on soem of the figured maple I havetheise little flcsk that absorb analine dye differently. No clue what this is but again it does not show up until I am applying stain.  It does not show even after putting mineral spirits to try to find any of these type blemishes. 

   if you have any suggestions on selecting wood for projects boy I am all ears.

   Next projec tis a Massachsuetts High Boy!   

3. 
   Dubie | Feb 11, 2008 10:07pm | #10

   Well, here's a picture of my hybrid lonnie Bird/ Glen Huey PA Sec desk. I have been working on it for over a year now.  Last step is the gooseneck molding which I plan to make this week.

   I did stain the gallery and the tombstone door panels as I knew it would be hard to stain the gallery after assembly and I did not non-stained parts of the door panels to show up later on.

   It is my first piece of this size and complexity.  I have a long way to go to be a journeyman craftsman BUT as I read on this site it is pretty FINE to me.. :-) !!!

   I must also state that Mr. Glen Huey is awesome, he responded to every one of my silly e-mails requesting clarification on many questions a seasoned craftsman should have known.   He was .. is wonderful.

    

   
1. 
   Dubie | Feb 11, 2008 10:14pm | #11

   oops pic is too big, I need ot fix that some how.... sorry

    

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Feb 11, 2008 10:50pm | #12

   Here ya go Dubie.

   Google Irfanview, it's free if you're on a PC.

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

   
1. 
   danmart | Feb 12, 2008 02:23am | #14

   Very nice of you Bob to help out another photo problem.

   While you're here bro' - have you looked at Gusler's video's yet??

   I was hopin' to hear what you thought??? Stop reading knots and look at the CW tape from the 60's. You'll love it.

    

   dan

   Edited 2/11/2008 6:26 pm ET by danmart

4. 
   Dubie | Feb 11, 2008 10:58pm | #13

   Here's a properly sized picture of the desk!!   I think