Does the perfect dovetail jig exist?
Hello All,
I am new to this forum so I don’t know if this subject has been covered in the past.
I am looking for the perfect dovetail jig and I don’t know if it exists. I have been looking at 4; The Leigh, The Keller Jig (16″), The Porter Cable 24″ Omni Jig, and the Incra 16″ Ultra Jig. I have been very patient and taken my time researching them. I have purchased owners manuals for each and read them from cover to cover.
After all of this, I still don’t know which way to go. I don’t see myself making small things like jewelry boxes or trinket boxes. I will probably be making medium to large size projects.
Each jig has its good and bad points. They all do things differently. The Keller can only do through dovetails, where as the others offer more types of joints. Although I am not flush, price is not an issue. I like my tools and quality is very important to me.
Would any one care to comment on their experiences with any of the above jigs? Maybe someone has worked with a couple of them.
Thank you for your input.
Alex
Replies
I have a keller and really like it. Its very easy to use. What I like about it ,width of stock is unlimited.
Ron
As long as we're talking about dovetail jigs, can someone recommend a simple, inexpensive one for me? The Porter Cable got a good review in something I was reading. Anyone used one?
Campbelldust,
The cheapest is the Taiwan specials at WW Warehouse..on sale for about $39. I think Woodcraft has an inexpensive one also. If that price dosent grab ya...how bout making a jig...or just buy the replacement templates that are available.
I have the Leigh D4 and absolutely love it. It takes a bit to learn to use it correctly but it comes with a video tape and a very well put together manual. Its not a heavy duty unit like the Porter Cable but It's well made and more than durable enough for me. The thing I like about it most is the way they've designed in features to allow you to modify it to fit a specific need. It will do a variety of Dovetail joints including sliding. They also make templates for Isoloc joints and Finger joints that fit the 24" D4 base. You will need to buy a set of guide bushings for your router if you don't already have them.
I have posted detailed reviews of the Keller, Leigh, AKEDA, and PC4112 jigs at our web site: http://thewoodshop.20m.com.
In short, all of the top jigs work and work well. The Keller is the easiest TD (through dovetail) jig to use, but at price of a fixed layout. The AKEDA and Leigh provide the best variety of joints and flexability of layout and if you can only afford one jig, I would choose between these two. The AKEDA is a bit easier to use--the Leigh has greater capacity. The PC4112 and 7116 omnijigs are great for HBDs. The 7116 will handle TDs if you purchase the optional templates.
Regards,
Jack Loganbill
http://thewoodshop.20m.com
Jack,
Thanks for the input. You have one great web page. I will enjoy reading the reviews and browsing.
Alex
I've only used a couple but I'd say far and away the simplist is the 1/2 blind DT jig you get from sears or many other manufacturers. They are typified by the comb with the rounded ends. One dovetail bit cuts both the pin and tail with the same pass. You set it up with the wood butted together and you slide thru in one pass per tail. After 3 or 4 cuts (learning the importance of making SQUARE end cuts on your jointed boards) you have it down pretty well.
Unfortunately it only does blind dovetails. I suppose you could do thru dovetails but you'd end up with round pins on the end. It is strong quick and easy.
Thru dovetail jigs have the straight bit and the dovetail bit required. You better own two routers cause the setup will drive you to drink (more). Once you get the depth of the straight & tail bits set then it rolls pretty smooth. I've got an older Leigh that still uses shims (cardstock to fit pin to tail) That is kind of a no brainer once the system has made the first good joint. Prepare to spend a Saturday learning how it works. You can do the woodworking superiority dance when you figure it out.
One small downside I found is that you can't (easily) put a dovetail on a really long board with this thru Leigh jig. The router rides on a set of fingers and the boards hang down. If you had a pit you could put the board into you could then cut joints on long boards. I cut some joints on a 5' long cupboard toe kick and had to run the router horizontally (bit axis). That worked, but it wasn't one of the more secure setups I've run.
In reality all dovetail tools are used for drawers and showy connections. You have to ask yourself what you are going to do and invest accordingly. You can always hand or machine cut hand-marked tails. I even bought a brass layout tail marker that I've cut a few with. Frankly they look ~ nice but too much putsy stuff for me to wrap my world around that joint. Tenons & lap joints are nearly as strong and lots more satisfying to cut. Even faster is the Shaper Rail and stile jointery. Tails cover the 90 degree grain orientation joint with aplomb. Me, I try to avoid that kind of joint. I put grain parallel and do mostly panel joints at the corner. If the joint is beyond a board (panel's) strength I'll shore it up on the interior with a long block cut to 90 degrees. A little glue, some screws to avoid the clamping on the interior, and the bomb squad can use it. The length of time it lasts I feel will be superior to anything.
Go to antique stores and review the stuff there. It is a history lesson with practical applications in our woodworking life. Jointery, glue, and all the furniture construction evils are there for us to see. It might be heretical to state it here, but dovetails aren't the solution to poor design. Dovetails are kind of a last resort.
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