Replies

1. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 07, 2007 08:55pm | #1

   I would think you could use those figure 8 metal 'thingies'. Yes half would show but you could hide that with a strip of wood next to the supports. But, if it were me I'd just leave the 1/2 metal part exposed. I do not think anybody would think it 'crude' if exposed.

   Only kids hide under a table and look up!!

1. 
   Corvette | Sep 08, 2007 01:44pm | #2

   Thank you. I am familar with the figure eight fasteners that you talk about.

   Corvette

2. 
   Jfrostjr | Sep 08, 2007 04:07pm | #3

   Without logic, but with intuition -

   I don't think you need to worry about "wood movement" on a 24" top mounted on 4" long blocks. The blocks should flex enough to absorb any movement. (i assume the 4" is the vertical separation dimension.)

   This still leaves the question of how to attach the blocks to the underside of the top. Pocket screws come to mind: either used vertically to directly attach the blocks to the top, the holes hidden with Kreg dowels. Or - used horizontally, attaching a sub-top piece to the block and then screwing the sub-top piece up into the top.

   The design sounds exciting. I'd like to see a photo when done.

   Frosty

   "I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922

1. 
   Corvette | Sep 09, 2007 02:01pm | #4

   I really appreciate your insights on the wood movement. I have not decided at this point how to attach the top to the 4" blocks. One reply that I recived recommended fiqure 8 type fasteners that are screwed into a recess in the top of the blocks and then screwed to the underside of the top directly.

   I hope to post a photo when I am done.

   Thank You,

   Corvette

3. 
   douglas2cats | Sep 09, 2007 02:40pm | #5

   What about using a hanger bolt (lag on one end - bolt on the other)? Put the lag end into the table top and have a hole through the spacer block bigger than the bolt diameter. Then counterbore the block underneath for a washer and nut. The counterbore would also have to be larger than the washer for movement. That would let the top move around on the blocks. Of course this assumes you can get screws up through the bottom of the desk framing into the bottom of the spacer blocks to fix them in place to the desk.

   If you build it he will come.

1. 
   Corvette | Sep 10, 2007 01:43pm | #8

   I like the hanger bolt idea. I will definitely look at this option.

   Thank you,

   Corvette

1. 
   douglas2cats | Sep 10, 2007 03:51pm | #9

   I'm forgetting about this one too that would let you use just regular screws up through the block rather than a hanger bolt

   http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=52607&cat=1,46168,46171&ap=1If you build it he will come.

1. 
   Corvette | Sep 11, 2007 01:54pm | #10

   Thank you. I was not aware of these router bits.

   Corvette

4. 
   [email protected] | Sep 10, 2007 01:06am | #6

   Slotted dovetails, which really isn't what I mean.  There is a name for the joint that escapes me. 

   It is a dovetailed slot with it's shoulders squared off for half the length toward the front of the case.  The block that sits over it has a dovetail that is short enough to drop into the part of the slot without the shoulder, and then slides to the rear into the dovetailed portion of the slot, which secures it to the top.   The top half of the cabinet is then fastened at the back to the back of the base , so that it can not slide forward and come free of the dovetails.

   I know it's not the best of descriptions, but should suffice. 

   By the way, if anyone knows the name of the joint let me know.

1. 
   Corvette | Sep 10, 2007 01:34pm | #7

   Thank you,

   Corvette