Replies

1. 
   RonT | Nov 20, 2008 05:45pm | #1

   That's an engineering project you'll have to design based on what you have to work with. All depends on what the bottom of your saw looks like.

   I suspect this is contractor's saw which is open on the bottom so a funnel shaped catch pan attached to the saw bottom with a nozzle attachment on the lower end for your hose will work fine. Make it stout enough that it doesn't collapse under vacuum; 1/2" plywood should work.

   Good luck.

1. 
   arden3 | Nov 20, 2008 08:36pm | #2

   This is a cabinet saw with cast iron shaped ring at the base. I think you are correct about an engineering project. I am not looking forward to turning the saw body upside down and trying to create a box inside to enclose the dust.

1. 
   RonT | Nov 20, 2008 08:59pm | #3

   Then how was the sawdust managed in days gone by? If it was collected naturally inside the base and cleaned out as one went along maybe you just need to tap a hose fitting into the side of the cabinet. You will still have dust collecting in the bottom but, it will be there or in your dust collector.

2. 
   PADDYDAHAT | Nov 20, 2008 09:53pm | #4

   arden, I just put DC on my new/old 1985 Unisaw. Delta had a tin adaptor to fit the rectangle patch that is on the base on the out feed side of the saw but that requires the floor to be bottom of the dust chamber. I have mine up on the big mobile base cause of the 52" Unifence so that dosen't work for me.

   I tipped her over on her back on some 4x4 sticks, removed the base from the steel walls that's held on with a few bolts, picked up a sheet of galvanized tin at home dopy and made a cover for the top of the base. Mark out the bolt holes on the tin and drill over size holes(I used a Whitney punch), then just re-bolt the base onto the sides.

   You need to get a 4" surface mounted DC fitting and cut a hole in the bottom of the steel side wall just above the new tin floor. The side walls are tough. A good hole saw works but a sawsall is easier using a quality 6" metal cutting blade. I cut mine on the side wall to the rear of the motor as I have a folding roller off feed table on the back.

   Do you have a motor cover and a louvered front access door? This is a PITA job but you only do it once and it's the best that I could figure. All the best, Paddy

1. 
   arden3 | Nov 20, 2008 10:11pm | #5

    Thanks for the reply. That is basically what I had planned but if there was an easier way... This saw has both the louvered access door and a hole for access to the motor. I had thought I would insert the DC access in the motor hole so the dust pipe can go under the table extension. I plan to cover the access door louvers so the chamber is fully enclosed.

1. 
   PADDYDAHAT | Nov 21, 2008 12:23am | #6

   arden, the motor cover is important, it should be closed. Delta and others sell the new plastic covers that you can make work but the old metal cover is best. Some guy bought most of them but I managed one of the last few from Delta pre Black & Pecker but it is worth the search and cost.

   The DC works on volume and flow from air under the top and the louvers and a port close to the new tin floor . Some tune the louvers available(duct tape) to get the least build up on the bottom so the DC port is important. A 4" hose in the motor hole will not be as efficient as you will see with use.

   Have you done Delta parts on line with your mod and serial #s to see the proper parts picture, listing and year for your saw. Left or right tilt, 3 or 5 hp? Paddy

1. 
   arden3 | Nov 21, 2008 01:22am | #7

   Thanks for the information. I'm on to Delta.

   Arden

3. 
   Dave45 | Nov 21, 2008 06:18pm | #8

   Recently, I saw an ad (in Rockler?) for a sheet metal dohickey that goes under a contractor-type saw and connects to a DC system.

   It looked sorta like a funnel that ended in a curved 4" pipe where you could attach a DC hose.

   It looked like a pretty good idea, but I would want to be really careful when changing blades. Retreiving a dropped arbor nut might get interesting. - lol