Replies

1. 
   PlaneWood | Mar 04, 2004 06:31am | #1

   Go to Hobby Lobby and get a bottle of 'Patina'.  I have brown and black made by Inland of Madison Heights, MI.  Experiement first.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
   PlaneWood

2. 
   woodonline | Mar 04, 2004 07:55am | #2

   Yep.....it was in a FWW a few years back. Soak it in Muraitic acid (available at most hardware stores) until it stops bubbling. Rinse in water and then put in a tin can and settle it into the coals of a wood stove until its cherry red, then remove it and when cool enough to hold (but still warm) rub some paste wax into it. I've used the method many times to 'antique' cheap plated hardware. Before I had a woodstove I used a propane torch to heat them and still got good results. I'm sure if you search the archives you'll be able to find the issue the article was in.....they also talked about 'antiquing' brass hardware with ammonia I believe.

1. 
   dirtstirrer | Mar 04, 2004 08:58am | #3

   Remember that muratic acid is pretty potent stuff, use outside, and stay out of the fumes!  Feels like you inhaled a campfire if you get a whiff.   It'll take bad rust off pretty quickly too.Steve

1. 
   Mackwood | Mar 04, 2004 07:57pm | #4

   DS

   We use muratic acid for cleaning brick and stone in the course of our painting business.  Did not realize it could be used to remove rust; makes sense though.  What kind of concentration do you use.  I'm thinking about some of my "rust bucket" planes.

   Regards,

   Mack 

    

1. 
   dirtstirrer | Mar 04, 2004 08:31pm | #5

   Hey Mack,

   I wouldn't do it on anything valuable, but I mixed it about 1/3 to 2/3.  It'll etch the metal if you leave it too long, but just keep an eye on it.  Trying to remember how long I soaked it for, but, can't seem too.  Have you tried electrolisis?  I bought a 45 with a box of cutters that looked like they'd been laying on the floor of a particularly dirty barn for the last 50 years, and it worked well to get the crud off.  Kind of fun too.Steve

1. 
   JohnWW | Mar 04, 2004 09:09pm | #6

   Muriatic acid is nasty stuff, basically it is eating the zinc off of the plated hardware.  I've never heard of it being used to remove rust, but I do know that, if the conditions are right, the fumes will cause rust on anything within a hundred yards of an open container.  Never use it in your shop, outdoors only.

   John W.

   Edited 3/4/2004 1:09 pm ET by JohnW

2. 
   scooter1 | Mar 04, 2004 09:40pm | #7

   Even vinegar will darken most finishes.

   Regards,

   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

3. 
   JohnWW | Mar 04, 2004 10:41pm | #8

   I think the technique being described used the acid to completely remove the zinc prior to heating the hardware to red hot temperatures to darken it.  Even mild acids, like vinegar will affect most metals and change their colors, but I think in this case a much stronger acid must be used.

   John W.

4. 
   scooter1 | Mar 04, 2004 10:48pm | #9

   Oh. Dunno.Regards,

   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

2. 
   PlaneWood | Mar 05, 2004 02:36am | #11

   Russ -

   I strongly recommend that you use electrolysis on your planes.  Only that method will get at the rust that is inside the cast iron, plus all the other contaimants that have been absorbed.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood

3. 
   aksophie | Mar 04, 2004 11:50pm | #10

   Yet one more method: Get a bottle of gun bluing at your local sporting goods store. The stuff I use is made by Birchwood Casey. It says it is for steel, but it will work on zinc, aluminum, and even brass. It is inexpensive and very easy to use. Repeated coats will blacken more.