Replies

1. 
   JimGG_ | May 14, 2001 09:35pm | #1

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   If we knew what hue/color you wanted to end up with, the answer could be more specific. You might not have to REMOVE it. Something, put on top of what you got, might give you what you want. Do you want grain figure to show through the finish? Do you want uniformity in what shows through? Do you want uniformity in hue/color? There are a lot of options, and choices in getting there.

1. 
   JimGG_ | May 14, 2001 10:22pm | #2

   *But, to answer your question, a commercial remover, like the methyl cloride based kinds, would do it. But it is messy, time consuming, smells bad, burns the fingers, and requires additional sanding. My first post was intended to salvage what you now have and avoid using removers. Comply with all warnings on the label. Labels are very conservative in describing the risk because it's better for sales.

1. 
   Brian_Beck | May 14, 2001 10:22pm | #3

   *Hi JimWhat we're shooting for is closer to the unfinished maple color--a bit lighter and less orangy than what we ended up with. The wood is highly figured in some panels, so we definitely want it to show. Uniformity in what shows through is a concern only to the extent that we want the wood to be allowed to speak, so if it's uniform, great; if it's not, that's fine too. Same I suppose with uniformity in hue/color. Actually the color is pretty uniform now, just not quite the right one. Hope this helps you. If it doesn't, I'll pass your questions on to my friend.Thanks

1. 
   JimGG_ | May 15, 2001 12:30am | #4

   *I put a maple floor in my house and finished it with solvent based varnish, which gave the maple a mellow light-yellow hue. But, this is the outcome I was seeking. I used to work for a guy installing wood floor and used water-based finish on customers' maple floors. The result was very clear and "waterwhite". The waterbased coatings may be what you're looking for.