Replies

1. 
   JerryLen | Nov 03, 2005 03:26pm | #1

   I don't know about madrone specifically but I though virtually all veneer logs were soaked in water before slicing.  This soaking makes it easier to make clean cuts.

2. 
   jackplane | Nov 03, 2005 10:17pm | #2

   I would not cut veneers green. The movement will astound you, and basically destroy a high quality veneer.

    Yes, most often woods are soaked in water prior to slicing, but that is after they've dried. Once cut, the veneers are wrapped, sometimes in newspaper, pressed to keep flat, and in storage.

    

3. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Nov 03, 2005 11:54pm | #3

   I remember reading about a guy who was sawing veneers green and then freeze-drying them.   He said that cutting green wood into thin slices and air-drying mostly produces lots of checked potato chips.   Instead, he sawed green wood into thin slices (.1" or so), stickered them, and then put them in his frost-free freezer.   The wood freezes solid before it has a chance to move.  After that, the water slowly sublimes, just like a tray of ice cubes which has been in there for months.   Some months later, he gets flat dry slices of wood.

4. 
   Telemike | Nov 04, 2005 07:32am | #4

   I dry reasonably stable wood in billets about 6" x 2 or 3, then cut when dry. Difficult wood like burl or crotch, I cut right away. Then, I sticker the sheets of veneer with corregated cardboard between sheets and put plywood faces on the pack of veneer/cardboard sheets and clamp them. I leave them for a year or two before using. Still, I sometimes have to soak the veneer and iron it flat before using or just put it in the kindling can.

1. 
   jack | Nov 04, 2005 09:41am | #5

   Thanks, everyone for your thoughts. I've cut a few veneers but from dry wood, and used them soon afterward so green wood is a new experience.Buxton - the freeze dryer looks interesting. I'll try it on a few samples cut from green logs that I don't plan to use - that way I can see how it works, how long is required for drying, and don't care if I lose the veneers.Telemike - you say you cut burl and crotch right away. Do you mean immediately after harvesting the tree and while it is still green? If so, do you sand the surface before each cut, or simply dry the veneers as they come off the bandsaw?

5. 
   EarlKelly | Nov 04, 2005 03:08pm | #6

   Jack,
   I would offer a different view point than others. Why not, use the burl for a turning or box. Madrone Burl veneer is readily available and relatively inexpensive. For the work you would have to put into slicing that burl, you could purchase some great grade of madrone burl, do your project and be finished.

   Furniture...the Art of a FurnitureMaker
1. 
   jack | Nov 05, 2005 09:30am | #7

   You raise a good point, Earl, but I get a great deal of satisfaction from milling, drying, and processing the woods I use from local trees. Can't do it with everything but we have a lot of oak and madrone here so they are my favorites.