Replies

1. 
   IanDG | Oct 15, 2004 12:45am | #1

   Use a new wheel on the cutter and dip it in light oil or mineral turps before cutting. Draw the cutter with medium pressure over the glass once only -- it should make a noise like an ice-skate.

   Tap the glass underneath the end of the score until you see a crack start -- do this at both ends of the cut then continue along the score until the cracks meet.

   Take a pair of pliers and grip one end of the waste and gently bend it down away from the remainder of the sheet -- the piece should break off cleanly.

   IanDG

1. 
   doby | Oct 15, 2004 03:16pm | #6

   I want to thank all for your helpful replies.

   Doby

2. 
   Sphere | Oct 15, 2004 01:55am | #2

   if it is SS glass listen to the last advice. My guess is that it is double strength , and that is a bear to cut. If it is tempered it is next to impossible.

   I have had sucess cleaning up the cut edge with a belt sander, if a can get a halfway decent break.

    

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations. 

3. 
   USANigel | Oct 15, 2004 02:25am | #3

   Lube is a must, it keeps the glass and blade cool! Should hear a sizzel as you "cut" the glass. Its more like a controled break than cutting. Try sliding a long strip under the glass to the wanted side of the glass then give a quick push on the scrap side. If this is old glass sometimes it is tough to cut. Toughened glass will just not cut, it just shatters.

4. 
   KesslerCraftsman | Oct 15, 2004 02:41am | #4

   Hi Doby,

   I'm a stained glass guy as well as a woodworker...see my stuff @ http://www.kesslercraftsman.com

   The first concern I have is the 1/4" glass.  Double-strength glass, which is thicker than generally used in windows is 1/8" thick..and I think it's pretty easy to cut.  I'd recommend you reevaluate using that thick glass for a window....

   That said, regardless of the glass, thickness, etc, Here's my best instructions:

   Start with either a new "Cheapo" non-moving, non-oil-fed cutter (like you buy in the hardware store or the big orange box) OR, preferably..if you're going to cut much glass..get an oil-fed cutter..the blade lasts longer and the oil seeps into the cut line easing the process.  I sell these things out of my shop for $20 or so, depending on whether you need the pencil type or a pistol grip type.  Toyo, the best IMHO says that you can cut 5 miles of glass before replacing the replaceable carbide cutterhead.

   If you use the hardware store variety, dip it in kerosene, mineral oil, etc..some non-evaporating lubricant.

   Place the cutter on the glass and make a single score without interupting the cut.  Lots of pressure, deep cuts, etc are unnecessary.

   When the glass is scored take the other end; the "ball end" of the cutter..or some similarly hard metal object and generally tap the full length of the glass several times.

   Turn the uncut sheet of glass over and do the same on the other side.

   If you'll look at your cut line before tapping, you won't see much of  a break or occlusion in the clear glass.  Afterwards you should see such a sign that you're making progress.  When I cut glass and look for this, I tap the areas that you don't see that occlusion.  Interestingly it is the vibration that assists the glass in breaking.  When I have a small, difficult cut, I'll basically hold the piece in the air so that the table surface doesn't minimize the vibrations.  Just two nights ago I did such a maneuver and the piece to be used, literally separated by intself upon tapping..it works.  As an aside (can you tell I love this stuff??) there's this huge modern myth debate about using regular scissors to cut glass under water..supposedly it totally kills any negative vibrations so that the glass doesn't shatter.  Someday I'll try it..smile.

   When you're satisfied, set a piece of 1/4 fiberboard, plywood etc on a table and put your piece of glass on top with the to-be-cut-off piece hanging off of the plywood..so when you put pressure on the glass from above, the 1/4" edge will put pressure on the cut.  Make sure the table 'catches' the cut-off piece.

   An alternative is to place a small dowel lengthwise, adjacent to the cut, so that it similarly applies pressure.  Then put pressure from above on the cut-off and it should snap at the line.

   You can clean up the edge in a variety of ways.  For about $10 you can get a carborundum stone that will round over the glass edges..any stained glass supplier will have this. Ultimately, except for when you handle the glass, there's no need to clean up the edges if you're just putting it into the wooden rabbet in a window.

   In any glass shop they have what are called "running pliers".  This is a tool that basically is a pair of pliers with a soft "v" shaped jaw that puts pressure underneath the cut and so insures a nice clean cut.  This is a $10 or so tool...

   To give you some encouragement, there is a pair of windows on my website that are 4 feet long that have a very tiny, thin strip of red glass running the full length.  That is only 1/8' glass..but it's highly textured and somewhat difficult to cut.  It was cut as one piece, 4' long by 1/8" of an inch!  It can be done.

   If you have further questions, e-mail me at [email protected]

   Larry

1. 
   doby | Oct 15, 2004 03:12pm | #5

   Hi Larry,

   Thanks for the nice tutorial on cutting glass. I'm going to try some of these ideas and try again.

   Doby

1. 
   Clay | Oct 16, 2004 08:08am | #11

   doby;

   Larry is right on about the Toyo cutters.  They can outcut about 700 of those cheap red devil type cutters before you change the tip ... and they will save you about $5,000 worth of glass along the way.  I've cut slivers so fine they were as thick as they were wide many times with my Toyo.

2. 
   JohnSD | Oct 15, 2004 03:33pm | #7

   Larry, how is the chest of drawers in your portfolio a "Tonsu" - I am not criticizing, your work is wonderful, but I thought a tonsu was a stepped chest, as in under a stair case?  Just wondering, JohnD

1. 
   KesslerCraftsman | Oct 16, 2004 03:49am | #10

   Hi John,

   No offense taken.

   Perhaps someone more knowledgeable than you and I can step in here, but I'm told that "tansu" just means "chest" in Japanese.

   I've seen many different styles and sizes of chests referred to as such.   In fact, if you'll do a google search on "tansu" you'll see "stepped tansu" alongside "tansu" that look like ordinary chests of drawers, display cabinets etc..but all seem to have a modern, oriental or A&C influence...

   I've never seen a Chippendale tansu or a Colonial tansu..how's that for a challenge, you creative woodworkers out there?  And while you're at it...add some stained glass panels to the Colonial Tansu!  Smile.

   Perhaps someone else knows?

   Larry Pile

3. 
   ASK | Oct 15, 2004 03:34pm | #8

   Larry,

   Sorry to change the subject but I am not a stained glass guy, but I have a window in my dining room which is begging for a nice panal. Wife wants to learn something about doing stained glass. Any suggestions for a good beginner book?

   ASK

1. 
   KesslerCraftsman | Oct 16, 2004 05:07pm | #12

   Hi ASK,

   Let me do some thinking and looking around.  There are lots of beginner books and DVDs/Videos...I think that if you're not going to do a hands-on class, I'd go with video instruction ahead of book-learnin'

   Vastly superior is a basic glass (usually 4-6 weeks) with an adequate instructor.  Those generally cost around $150, they often loan you the tools and supply scrap glass for a small project...it's money well spent.

   That said, if your wife really is committed to learning and has a modicum of discipline to keep at it, she can learn it easily.Be aware that the skills to do a "big" window take knowledge about reinforcement, structural issues, etc...far beyond your typical "suncatcher" or small-panel first project.That said, it's not rocket science...  Where do you live?

   Larry Pile

1. 
   ASK | Oct 17, 2004 04:58am | #14

   Larry,

   Thanks for the advice. About structural stuff. I'm and architect and I tend over build everything anyway.

   Live in the big apple during the week and spend weekends in the berkshires. There is a stained glass store not too far which I have yet to go into.

   Thanks again for the advice

   ASK

1. 
   KesslerCraftsman | Oct 17, 2004 09:43pm | #15

   I would encourage you and your wife to take a simple, basic class in the copper foil and in the lead techniqe...that will be sufficient to get you going..then it's practice, creativity and "life learning". 

   I only wish that the stained glass folks had a decent forum...makes me appreciate Knots all the more!

   lp

2. 
   ASK | Oct 18, 2004 03:38pm | #16

   Larry,

   Thanks for the info.

   I think I'll let my wife take the class. I have a kitchen for my kids the renovate and a dining room table and buffet on the list. Not to mentions ski season is upon us.

   ASK

5. 
   WayneL5 | Oct 16, 2004 12:56am | #9

   You've received good advice from the others.

   This is what is happening to the glass when you are cutting it with a glass cutter.  The scoring operation creates a series of tiny checks on the surface of the glass, all lined up along the score.  The tapping motion causes the checks to grow.  The idea is for the checks to join together along the line you want the break to run.  Done properly, you create a weakness all along the intended line.  Then, when you bend the glass, you are opening up the line of checks, and the fractures run down through the full thickness of the glass.

   If the glass breaks in another direction, it's because you had an interruption in the line of fractures and the check runs off in some other direction.  The most likely cause is inconsistent pressure in making the score, or not being patient with the tapping to let the fractures join.

   If you feel like giving up, you can take the glass to a glass shop and have them cut it for you.  They have scoring tables which apply just the right pressure in a smooth motion by a machine.

6. 
   DennisS | Oct 16, 2004 10:42pm | #13

   doby -

   Ian's advice is correct. For tapping the *back* side of the glass use the ball end of the glass cutter and tap very, very gently increasing the force very gradually until you see the crack telegraph through from the scored side to the back. Try to run the crack the full length of the score line first before you try breaking off the waste. Then use a pair of pliers with the widest jaws you have. Support the sheet of glass on a good smooth surface with the waste hanging out over the edge lining up the score line/crack with the edge of the surface.

   It should snap off fairly clean.

   Wear eye protection and, of course heavy gloves. You can take a piece of course sand paper along the cut edges, both sides to remove the sharp edge and make handling it a little safer and easier.

   You cannot cut tempered glass as you probably already know.

   ...........

   From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.

   Dennis

7. 
   Ron | Oct 19, 2004 03:02am | #17

   Check the Fletcher Terry web sight. They make glass cutters in a number of bevels. If memory serves me correctly, there is a cutter specifically for plate glass. It has to do with the bevel of the wheel. For example their 8&9 cutters are the same wheel just that one has the ball on the end of the handle and the other doesn't. Small diameter wheels are for curves etc. I use odorless kerosene. For less than 3.oo you can cut a thousand feet of plate.

   If its a door way or a window at the bottom of a stair way the federal glass safety law applies.

   DON'T tap plate glass from below it leaves a bad edge that needs to be sanded on a wet belt or wet diamond. Place a wooden dowel under the cut and push down on the scrap side with a pair of gloves. You don't cut glass, you control the braking.

   http://www.fletcher-terry.com

   
   

   ---

   Edited 10/18/2004 8:08 pm ET by Ron

8. 
   KesslerCraftsman | Oct 20, 2004 01:27am | #18

   Were you successful, Doby?

1. 
   doby | Nov 01, 2004 12:35am | #19

   Larry,

   Sorry I'm so late in reply but yes I was happy with the outcome.I hope you get to see this posting.

   doby