Replies

1. 
   mrles | Apr 09, 2004 09:18am | #1

   Tommy

   I have just completed some ogee feet for a bookcase, made them on my tablesaw, using 2 X 6" stock. I got the plans out of 1998 or 1999 Dec issue of FW. So easy I couldn't believe the results. I used a Freud 10" thin kerf carbide  blade. Turned out great for me.

   Gods Peace this Maundy Thursday night

   les 

2. 
   ronniebe | Apr 09, 2004 09:38pm | #2

   I just made 30 feet of crown out of 8/4 cypress that is 5 inches wide. I used a 60 tooth 10 inch blade, taking small bites at a time. Clamped guide fences on both sides of the blade and used a slow but steady feed rate. It worked fine.

3. 
   Elcoholic | Apr 10, 2004 12:23am | #3

   Combo.

   John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

1. 
   CharlieP | Apr 10, 2004 02:50am | #4

   Hmmm - have you tried both?  It is cross grain, so the one time I did a "production" run, I felt good about using the combo blade.  But the sharp sides of the ATB teeth left a LOT of sanding, so I figured that a rip blade would be better next time - the chisel tooth smoothing the surface.  I haven't tried it with a rip blade, but was planning to.________________________Charlie Plesums  Austin, Texashttp://www.plesums.com/wood

1. 
   burk | Apr 10, 2004 03:58am | #5

   I'm about to head into the shop - I think I'll try the rip blade. The combo blade seems like the intuitive choice, but I think your right about the tooth configuration. I'm also doing a symmetrical cove so I was going to use a zero clearance insert. Should help on the exit side of the cut.

1. 
   CharlieP | Apr 10, 2004 05:51am | #6

   Be sure and let us know how it works. 

   I also used a zero clearance insert.  No tear out problems with the combo blade, but I thought I was going to be sanding the rest of my life - even starting with 36 grit floor sanding paper.  ________________________Charlie Plesums  Austin, Texashttp://www.plesums.com/wood

2. 
   burk | Apr 10, 2004 06:04am | #7

   I'm back from. That worked out amazingly well! I ended up using a combo blade. It was in the saw, and after I ran a test piece, I decided it worked well enough. No tear-out. A little scraping and sanding and it'll look great. I don't think I'll do that for too many paying customers though. It took long enough to run about 5 feet, even after I hogged out the middle with some straight cuts.

4. 
   joinerswork | Apr 10, 2004 06:02pm | #8

   Tommy,

   I use a 3 knife molding cutterhead (mine came from Sears, a long time ago) and  round nosed cutters to make coves on my tablesaw.  I feel that the cutterhead provides more stiffness and resists the sideways pressure from feeding the stock at an angle to the blade.  Plus the profile of the cutter is better suited to cutting from the side than a saw blade.  No question that a sawblade works, I just like the molding cutter better.

   When you get the height of the cut where you want it, I've found that making a second pass at the same set will yield a smoothr surface, and requires less scraping and sanding to clean up.

   Regards,

   Ray

1. 
   RickL | Apr 11, 2004 03:57pm | #9

   I agree Ray. The moulding head is a much better way to go. The LRH magic moulder is the state of the art and check out the Lonnie Bird cove cutter made by CMT

1. 
   burk | Apr 13, 2004 04:26pm | #11

   Thanks. See my comments to joiners.

2. 
   burk | Apr 13, 2004 04:26pm | #10

   Thanks. I've been thinking about getting a molding head for the saw. I was really happy with the results. Somebody had suggested taking a second pass at the final height before I cut the molding and it made a difference. I used a french curve scraper for cleanup which didn't take too long.