Replies

1. 
   saschafer | Dec 12, 2007 04:59pm | #1

   I would use a bandsaw, with support under the overhanging rail ends if necessary.

   -Steve

    

2. 
   brownman | Dec 12, 2007 07:44pm | #2

   I've done this with a router with much difficulty before. I've also cut tenons on long pieces on my table saw much easier with a dado blade. With a good long sturdy, straight piece of wood attached to your miter gauge you may be able to accomplish this. Although I would recommend one of the many after market miter gauge attachment fences. I bought the Incra V27 miter gauge and attached a 3/4" thick 3" tall piece of solid aluminum bar stock to create a very sturdy cut off fence. I got the aluminum for free. Cut them close with the dado blade then trim them up using a shoulder plane or chiesel. You could also cut them close, after careful marking, with a good quality hand saw, such as one the many Japanese style pull saws that are on the market, and then clean them up with plane. Then I suppose you could still use a tenoning jig on your table saw, although a 49" piece is a little long. All in all no matter what kind of machining method you use your going to have to use a hand tool of some sort to clean it up and fine tune the fit.
   Danny

1. 
   Scottp57 | Dec 12, 2007 09:36pm | #3

   That sounds like a good idea.  Thanks for your help,

   Scott

    

3. 
   MikeHennessy | Dec 12, 2007 11:40pm | #4

   If I want a rough tenon, I'll use the table saw method mentioned or the RAS -- same method, just right side up.

   If I want a nicer tenon on long stock, I make a jig for the router. The jig is a couple of 1/4" ply pieces spaced apart by scraps the same thickness as the workpiece -- like a flat donut -- just wider than the workpiece. You can run the assembled jig through the TS to make sure the edges of the ply on one end of the jig are lined up perfectly.

   Then slide your workpiece through the hole, clamp and use the jig as a guide for the router, taking off the same amount from each side.

   Harder to describe than to do it.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

   
   

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   Edited 12/12/2007 3:40 pm ET by MikeHennessy

4. 
   AdamCherubini | Dec 13, 2007 02:06am | #5

   Hand saw. Just did this job, except the rail was closer to 7' long. Mark both sides, saw the corner out then flip it over and do the same from the other side.

   Quick and easy and I had complete control. No worries about bumping the free end cantilevered precariously off some small power tool surface. I just watched that line and sawed to it. Didn't even have to pare it to put the joint together.

   I had a 19" back saw specially made for this sort of job, but a fine toothed rip saw would probably work fine as well. Sawing in from both sides sorta makes the back saw not so critical.

   Adam

5. 
   BrianDerr | Dec 13, 2007 06:06am | #6

   What I would do is cut the shoulders with a handsaw, then 'nibble' the cheeks with the table saw. clamp a guide board right on the shoulder line, use a sharp fine tooth saw of your choice; then spend some time setting the blade height and nibble away, then clean up down to the shoulder with a chisel. 49' is nothing, we should all have an alternate to the tenoning jig. I don't actually have a tenoning jig . . . nor is one on the list . . .

   Brian

1. 
   knuts | Dec 13, 2007 04:12pm | #7

   Hand tools

1. 
   Scottp57 | Dec 13, 2007 04:57pm | #8

   Thanks for all of the help guys.

   Scott

    

6. 
   Routerman | Dec 13, 2007 06:05pm | #9

   No length limitations with this jig.

    

   Jig is in an issue of FWW.

    

    

   Routers

1. 
   Scottp57 | Dec 13, 2007 11:16pm | #10

   Great link, thanks.