Just ran into a snag so it was time to close up shop for tonight…So I’m trying to radii in 3 1/2″ thick soft maple. The problem is I don’t have a bandsaw and my jig saw has a cutting depth of about 1 1/2″ with the better (20 tpi) blades I’m using. Note: I don’t have a belt sander either. I clipped off as much waste as possible and tried the ROS with 80 grit paper but goodness, I’ll be there for the next week! I’m curious as to any ideas on getting this done. Possibly use a rasp or file? Any thougts would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Brett
Replies
Brett, if you have a router you can cut a perfect radius with it. You need a template,two bits, top and bottom bearing straight bits. Fasten template on top, use top bearing bit first,then turn piece upside down and rout with bottom bearing bit.The bottom bearing bit rides on the previous cut.The cutter length needs to be 2" above or below the bearings.You could make the template from masonite or 1/4" plywood.I would cut the template with the router too.
mike
Thanks, Mike. Actually, I thought of that too but my flush trim bits aren't long enough to cover the thickness of the stock. Plus, my bits are bottom bearing only. Are there longer bits available? Any other alternatives? Thanks.
Bbobo, re-read Mike's post. You cut half of the thickness with one bit, then flip the disc over and cut the other half with the other bit, using your just-cut surface as the guide for the bearing. Pretty slick.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
You can get 2" straight bits with either a top or a bottom bearing.Actually there are some manufacturers that have a top and bottom bearing on the same bit. These won't help you because of the thickness of your stock. You need one 1/2" shank,1/2" diameter, 2" cutting length bit with a top bearing. You also need the same bit with a bottom bearing. If your router takes 1/2" shanks, then this is the method I would use.There are a number of websites that carry these bits. I have Mostly Amana and Freud and a couple of Whiteside bits. All of these outfits make a quality router bit for a decent price.
mike
Perfect, that's what I'll do. The radius is only ~2" on some feet for the workbench I'm building. I have a limited set of router bits as it is and all of them are from a set of "common" bits. I've had the need for larger flush trim bits in the past, both top and bottom bearing, so I think it's time. Like Jaime, your idea of using the cut side as the bearing for the other is slick. I had made a plywood temlate and figured I would just use double-sided tape to attach it to each side of the stock. Of course, unless it's perfectly placed on the other side, it could be slightly off. I guess nothing that the sander couldn't clean up but just wasted time spent.
Thanks again,
Brett
Speaking of bits, what are some reputable online dealers that offer a competitive price? Also, does Whiteside sell directly to the public? Thanks.
Mike,
I didn't see that Amana or Whiteside offer a top-bearing flush trim bit (surely there is one) but I found one from Eagle America that's double bearing:
http://eagleamerica.com/double-bearing-pattern--flush-trim-bits/p/117-0822B/
With double bearing bits, can you remove either bearing for applications like mine? Otherwise, this wouldn't work in this case. Thanks.
Yes, you can remove either or both bearings, although depending on the design of the bit, it may or may not be convenient. I have some Lee Valley double-bearing bits: the top bearing is held on by a setscrew in a collar; the bottom bearing is held on by a socket-head capscrew threaded into the end of the shaft.
-Steve
Steve, would you recommend two separate bits for convenience then or are you saying that your bit is easy enough to tailor to the specific need of either top or bottom bearing? I looked on Lee Valley's site but didn't see this particular bit. If you have a link to it, I'd appreciate it. Thanks.
The Lee Valley bits are here: http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=3&p=51851&cat=1,46168,46171&ap=1
With the Lee Valley bits, at least, I would rate removal/replacement of the top bearing as "very convenient" and of the bottom bearing as "somewhat convenient." The issue with the bottom bearing is that there's no good way to hold the bit while removing the screw except to install it in a router and use the router's shaft lock.
Aside from any minor inconveniences, the primary disadvantage of a double-bearing bit is that the overall combined depth of cut you can achieve is usually less than you can get with a pair of single-bearing bits.
-Steve
Steve,
I received the "custom" top and bottom down shear flush trim bit from whiteside and the top bearing isn't coming loose after I removed the stop collar. Any thoughts on how to remove it without damaging the bearing like with pliers? The bottom bearing slides right off once the stop collar is removed so I'm wondering what the deal is.
Thanks, Brett
Hmmm. I've never had that happen--they've always just slid right off. You can't pull the bearing off the "correct" way because there's no way to get to the back side of the inside race (the cutters are in the way). You might try slipping something like a thin knife blade between the bearing and the cutters--if a little bit of prodding of that sort doesn't pop it loose, then I don't think there's any way to get it off without significant risk of damage.
-Steve
You can remove the bearing from double bearing bits. Personally I would rather use two bits rather than removing and adding bearings.
mike
The shank end bearings are sometimes extremely difficult to remove. The bearing and shank tolerences are very tight and the set screws are prone to having the allen socket(tiney weeny) stripped out from over tightening on the stop collar.Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Try routerbitworld.com. I've used them many times and have always been happy. I believe they must have every router bit made. <grin>
A bad day woodworking is better than a good day working -- yes, I'm retired!
You can do it in short order with a router as already described.
But it is also very easy to do with hand tools:- you could use a bow saw and then fair it up with a hand plane, finish off with scraper and paper. Any heavyish plane such as a #51/2 initially then if you have a compass plane this is good.
No bow saw? Then just mark the line on both sides, use ####panel saw to cut a series of flats near the line, fair off with hand plane etc. Even chop the sharps with a wide chisel and mallet then plane(s).
How big is the radius anyway?
Go into Neander mode. Use a bow saw & clean up with a drawknife.
If you insist on plugging in, a jigsaw would get you close enough for the sander.
Of course, the router suggestions will save all that cleanup, so if you wanna invest in the bits, that's the way to go.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
What is the diameter you are trying to cut out? Do you have a table saw that will cut 3 1/2" deep?
John W.
Good Afternoon John,
The radius is about 2 1/2" but the stock is 3 1/2" thick. My table saw is only good for about 3" so I can't cut this in one pass. As I mentioned to Steve, I ordered a top and bottom bearing downshear flush trim bit from Whiteside but I'm having trouble removing the top bearing after I loosen the stop collar. Also, when using the top bearing against my template, the ~1/4" threaded portion for the bottom bearing rubs against the stock, not allowing me to plunge fully and allow the top bearing to work properly. Is there a way to removed the threaded portion? Also, any thoughts on removing the top bearing?
Thanks, Brett
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