Replies

1. 
   a_jepson | Feb 16, 2002 06:56am | #1

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   if i had to do this, i would take a cheap piece of plywood the length of the desk, cut out the curve on the bandsaw (or jig saw), smooth out any bumps along the way until i was happy, then i would use it as a template, and cut the actual top and blocking with my router with a straight bit and a guide bushing. hope this helps

1. 
   Danford_C._Jennings | Feb 16, 2002 09:11am | #2

   *Gene,My approach would be similar to Andrew's but, I would use the jig saw; 106" long ply is pretty hard to handle on the band saw. I would scribe the lay out with a marking knife to eliminate chip out and cut to the line, clean up with a spoke shave and/or sanding block.For the nosing, laminate using a form, male and female, and clamps, using the top as the template to make the form.Dano

1. 
   scott_murray | Feb 16, 2002 09:25am | #3

   *Gene,Here is what I think I would do.Make your template first. I'd make it out of 3/4 ply so that when finished, it would become your underblock piece. Using a nice batten (thin, flexible stick) fair your curve out the way you like, then band saw shy of your line, finish with files, rasps, whatever.Then, I would use that template to make male and female (oh sorry, positive and negative, you guys figure who gets which role) cauls to make your maple banding with. To do this, I would take a 3/4 router bit with with a top bearing on it, slap that template on some more 3/4 ply (or whatever) and route away. When you finish, what you will have will be a positive and negative caul for pressing your nosing of 3/4" (the gap taken out by the 3/4" bit). The inside edge (inside caul) will match up with your template and your top. Since it is to be 1.5" high, then route out 2 sets of cauls to make your "mold" 1.5" high. Cut your laminates and glue them up in the cauls for a good fit to your table because...You'll now use that original template as your router guide to shape your table top to match up to it and to the nosing which is just now drying. I would use the template to draw the curve, bandsaw outside the curve, attatch the template underneath, and use a pattern bit to flush trim the top to the template. Does this make sense? Am I missing anything anyone?Oh, finally, you can use the outer edge caul to help for clamping when you glue the nosing onto the top.Good luckScott

1. 
   scott_murray | Feb 16, 2002 09:29am | #4

   *Gene, Dano's post musta slipped in while I was typing away. (Hey, Dano, aren't you up kinda late?:)He's right on about using the jig saw. You'd look like the crocodile hunter trying to wrestle the ply thru a band saw. Good point Dano.Scott

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   Danford_C._Jennings | Feb 16, 2002 10:08am | #5

   *Scott, nah....I'm on PST (Oregon)...Dano

2. 
   Eric_Brandt | Feb 20, 2002 01:33am | #6

   *I don't think anyone has mentioned it yet, but since your design seems to be symmetrical, you can start by making a pattern of just one half, then use that twice (once flipped over) to make your patterns/cauls for the whole length. Just another idea...Eric.