Hey folks
I have a question about custom made lumber core substate.
Am new to the discussion and hope to get some input on this.
I am making a 52 in crotch mahogany sunburst top. I want to make a lumber core substrate with 1/2 inch poplar strips, 1/16″ mahog. cross banding, yorkite cross banding and then face veneer of crotch mahog.
Does this sound like an acceptable plan? Do I need 2 cross bandings (in opposite directions of course) and then the yorkite?
Total top aprox. 1″.
Thanks
RK
Replies
Why are you using lumber-core material? Veneer-core stuff is more stable. Furthermore, you can buy it -- without having to build it yourself.
Thanks Jamie,
My reason is an integrity issue. MDF is more stable than anything, but I want to be able to offer a very high end product. When doing formal (more traditional) furniture I avoid MDF . My normal core material is russian birch with 1/8" skins for flatness.
I realize lumbercore is available with 1-1.5" core pieces... Do you know of a source for the one I am looking to create? With 1/2" strips?
Mark
Rococo --
Could you explain that integrity angle to me? Plywood (well, good plywood) is structurally a better material than solid wood. I understand not wanting people to see the stuff, but in this case -- where it will be completely covered with show lumber --- you'd be making a better product with a plywood core than with solid core.
And I understand about not using MDF. That stuff isn't as stiff as plywood, and it cold-creeps. (And, of course, it is nasty to work with. <G>)
Edited 7/24/2003 1:31:35 PM ET by JAMIE_BUXTON
BAAAAD NEWS IF IT GETS WET, TOO.
Jamie,
I guess it does need splain'in... I wanted to offer my clients a range of grading in materials and workmanship. With this (low, med, high end) I can justify some heavy pricing while not seeming like I am gouging. They have options.
9 out of ten times they go with my mid range which is russian birch with 1/8 mdf skins for a core. 1 out of ten they go for MDF.
The reason I asked the original question is someone has requested the old fangled substrate. Lumber core. Simple .
Stabillity is not an issue if it is figured into all conditions and allowed for. I find the folks that like the trad designs also like their tops a little wavy and not dead flat. Something you would see in a lumbercore substrate.
Thanks
rk
a rookie question: What is lumber core?
Hi Dave,
Lumber core is a traditional method of making a plywood like substrate for veneering onto for panels, tops, etc.
The difference from regular ply is there is a core made of solid wood, poplar, luan, something lightweight. About 1/2" for a 3/4 in finished sheet. The core is made of small strips of this wood to virtually eliminate movement of the finished panel. Then it is veneered accross the grain with a thick veneer and then the face veneer.
I asked the original question hoping someone has done this and had some tips. Most want me to use plywood or pre-made lumbercore which has large blocks of solid wood inside and is not as stable as the lay up I want.
An internet search will show a diagram or two.
RC
I have really taken to gluing up my panels from 1/4" hardwood ply and a MDF core of any size, easy to vary the thickness. I know a lot of people here do not like MDF and the dust is not fun, but the panels are very stable and have great solid feel. They are easy to work with and I don't try to soak my furniture so water is not an issue.
As to lumber core, my local sheet good supplier can get all of it I would want, for a price. There was an article in an old FWW on making ones own, the strips are not edged glued and a press is needed to do it right. It sounds like a lot of labor, (cost), for little gain in function.
You could buy thicker lumbercore, resaw it and thickness plane it to 1/2 inch thick and then glue it up to get the width of the blank you need.
That said, I'd go with a good quality plywood core, it will be more stable than the lumber core. European made birch plywood comes in 60 inch square sheets which will make it easy to get the top in one piece with very little waste.
John W.
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