Replies

1. 
   blutt | Apr 04, 2002 04:01pm | #1

   All I can think of is that you are going to have to cut them with a router. 

   If it is going to be a perfect circle I would attach the router to a compass arm with a screw or nail at the center.  A 1x4 with a plywood router mounting plate attached to one end should do it and a hole at the correct radius for the center pin.  If you are worried about the mark made by the center pin you could attach a piece of wood with double sided tape to set the location of the center pin, use a scraper to clean off any tape adhesive before you finish the tub.

   If the Tub is some other shape ( oval, ellipse or free form ) I would make a fullsize template out of plywood using a jig saw, the better you fininsh the edge the smoother the router will cut.  Once you have the template it is just a matter of putting it where you want, fix it in place with screws, clamps, weights etc. whatever works for you, and running your router with a guide around the edge.

   I hope this is of some help.

1. 
   kenstory | Apr 05, 2002 02:03am | #2

   What about possibly cutting the start with my radial arm saw since it is 2X material and finishing with the router? I like the idea but am concerned about the depth and size of the dado with the router bits. Thanks for your input.

   Ken

1. 
   DonaldCBrown | Apr 05, 2002 03:30am | #3

   Do it in steps; don't try to hog it out all at once. Depth is easy. If your requirement is wider than your bit, then you'll have to make two patterns, one for the outside circumfrence, and one for the inside.

   I don't understand your plan to use a radial arm saw, but it sounds dangerous to me.

1. 
   kenstory | Apr 05, 2002 05:15am | #4

   Because the dado has to curve to fit the bottom of the tub ,my idea was to cut the most of the dado on the saw and finish the last,curved cuts with a router in a trammel. I'm not trying to cut the curve,only to get most of it out before using the router.   Ken

1. 
   blutt | Apr 05, 2002 08:43pm | #5

   The problem I see with using your radial arm saw is that the angle that you would need to cut into each board would be different and the two outermost boards will require long cuts because they will be tangent to the radius of the tub.  You are probably better off making multiple passes with the router. 

   You can deal with the width of the dato by adjusting the length of the trammel, I knew there was a word for that, or if you are using a template by using a larger guide collar.

   It just dawned on me that you may want to set the floor into a dato in the wall of the tub rather than the other way.  If the floor is in a dato in the wall you can run a strap around the outside to keep everything tight, where if the wall is set in a dato in the floor only the connectors you use will be keeping the wall from popping up.  Just a thought.  What is the typical detail for this type of tub ?

2. 
   kenstory | Apr 06, 2002 05:11am | #8

   The design I have seen is based on a barrel shape with the dadoes cut in the walls and the round bottom set into them. It then looks like it sets up about 4 inches allowing a base on which to set it above the ground (4x4?) It will also allow a drain to be placed into the bottom of the tub. I am planning a deck of the Yellow Cedar and want the tub to match. The design I saw was from Snorkel Stove Company and they will sell the accessories I need to finish the project. Thanks for all the advice so far from everyone.

   Thanks Ken

3. 
   WKellington | Apr 07, 2002 07:34am | #9

   The tubs I assembled long ago had straight bottom dados in the staves deep enough to cover the curve in th edge of the tub bottom.  The tub doesn't seal up until the wood in the bottom swells against the edges of the dado.  The staves are beveled to the correct angle to make up the circle.  The tubs usually rested on sleepers under the bottom, and not on the staves. 

   Assembling one of these things solo is pure comedy.  You need to stand all of the staves up before you can put the bands on.  Then you are trying to set a six foot diameter band before the staves fall down.  Then you drop the band and while you are picking it up, one of the loose staves clonks you on the bean. 

   Learn up some good four letter anglo saxon and good luck!

   WBK

4. 
   blutt | Apr 08, 2002 07:55pm | #10

   I am sorry, the whole discussion of the curved dadoes would be for the sides to set into a dado in the bottom.  based on your latest post that detail would be wrong. 

   If the dado is in the wall of the tub it would be perfect for a radial arm saw.  The dato would be a simple cross cut on the radial arm saw to a depth enough to recieve the bottom.  They would not have to be curved, the faceted wall of the tub would naturally follow the curve of the bottom.

   In the future I will try to better understand the question before I throw in my two cents.

   Good luck with the tub, sounds like a great project.

5. 
   sschefer | Apr 08, 2002 09:14pm | #11

   I'm a little confused, (this is normal). It appears that you will be cutting the dado's into the staves and then somehow attaching them to bottom. I'm hoping that you will be banding the staves with steel bands also and just using these dados as a support when you're trying to set the bands. I'm a little concerned about weakening the staves by cutting the dado's. The pressure will be in a down and out direction with the greatest pressure occuring at or near the location of the weakest point of the staves.

   Steve - in Northern California

6. 
   WKellington | Apr 09, 2002 02:58am | #12

   Steve:  The pressure is handled by the placement of the bands.  The low band goes around the tub at the level of the bottom.  The spacing of the bands is staggered.  They are closer together at the bottom where the pressure is greater, and farther apart near the top.  The tubs I worked on had four bands.  After the staves are set up, you tighten the bands progressively, while banging away with a rubber malet to line up the staves.  Usually somewhere in the process you tighten the upper bands too much at once, and the lowe band falls off.  Another chance to exercise your vocabulary.

   WBK

7. 
   sschefer | Apr 09, 2002 04:32pm | #14

   WBK, yep, I know the same cus words. I just want to make sure that KenStory was thinking along the same lines. If not, and he got the bottom band jacked up too high or left it off altogether and used screws instead, he'd be in real trouble.Steve - in Northern California

8. 
   WKellington | Apr 09, 2002 09:22pm | #15

   Steve:  Would now be a good time to tell Ken about how the water will turn nasty red for the first couple weeks until the tannins bleed out?  The old redwood tubs used to take a couple weeks to stop producing a nice grape juice colored water.

   Ken:  As you go on with the project, feel free to ask more questions.  If I can remember it, I am too happy to share it.

   WBK

9. 
   sschefer | Apr 09, 2002 10:39pm | #16

   I think so, do you want to also tell him how many gallons of water he'll use up waiting for it to finally seal. Wait, I think we've just told him....LOL... Hey they are fun projects and definitly conversation pieces. I think once the novelty wears of he'll be looking at a fiberglass one just like the rest of us.

   Steve - in Northern California

10. 
    kenstory | Apr 09, 2002 03:18am | #13

    I think you understood well and had several good ideas. The router will cut a circle and work very well. I had planned on 3 hoops but feel 4 will work better. Thanks to all who took time to help me with his project.

     thanks Ken

2. 
   sschefer | Apr 05, 2002 09:00pm | #6

   Ken is your hot tub design shaped like a barrel ? This is the perception that I'm getting.

   Steve - in Northern California

3. 
   Elcoholic | Apr 05, 2002 10:28pm | #7

   If the tub will be planed, shaved or ground to a faired, round inside diameter (not faceted) then a base for the router could be made that fits the curve like a compass plane.  The router could be guided by the edge of the tub with a standard edge guide.  With a dado of consistent depth the id of the tub could be scribed directly on the bottom board assy.  Then the bottom could be trimmed to the right dia. with a router in a trammel jig.  Disassemble the tub and reassemble it around the bottom.

   John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne