can anyone tell me how to use crown molding to make shelves with a solid top and bottom with an invisible mounting bracket? I know how to cut the miters, but I need help figuring out how to attach a top and bottom that is flush with the molding, that is to say no end grain. I think I can use a beveled bracket to hide the mounting arrangement. Is this recommended? the shelves are going to be about 5-6″ deep and 2-3′ long using standard crown molding. I only have the basic tools to do this, plus a miter saw. No air tools or special clamps. I just want to glue the whole thing together
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I think I've made a similar shelf if I understand your description. On my shelf I used a plywood top but did not have is sit flush with molding - instead it was on top of the molde and slightly proud of the molding (i.e., about 1/8 longer and deeper than molding). I felt this gave an extra element to the molding. I covered the plywood with edge banding although thicker strips of solid wood may have been a better choice. The molding was glue to the plywood and reinforce with angled brackets screwed into the plywood from above with the screw holes plugged. the shelf sit on the wall with a French cleat. As my work goes, it looks pretty good except we live in an old house with walls that aren't straight so there is a slight gap in places. If I do this again I will scribe the outline of the wall on to the shelf first.
thank you JH, that sounds like a better idea than the one I was going to attempt ! The only thing I might try to do differently is find a thinner piece of lumber instead of the plywood as I do not know how to put banding on, I will miter the lumber to match the molding on the edges. I think that will work. The whole thing is going to be painted ,so the lumber should not make a difference.
Here's a picture of a fireplace mantle I made about 10 yrs ago. I think it's sort of what you're thinking about. The crown is 5-1/4" oak and there are internal supports adding strength.
This mantle is mounted to the brick but could also be hung from a cleat attached to a wall.
thanks Dave, yes, this is quite what I am looking for. Is that 1 or 2 boards on the top and how did you hide the end grain...........miters?
Jeez Maddog, you're sure asking a lot from my memory - lol
The top board is solid with rounded edges. You could also do this with plywood and edge banding.
The second board from the top is there to add some detail. I ripped some solid stock to 1-3/4" (I think) and mitered the corners to give me returns at the ends.
Next is the oak crown.
The bottom board (not visible in the picture) was cut to fit inside the bottom of the crown. For this mantle, I had to cut some of it away to fit around the brick. You would just leave it solid. Since there are no exposed edges, this could be plywood as well.
The mantle is mounted with two countersunk lag bolts into mortar seams. SWMBO has redone the wallpaper a couple of times over the years and the mantle comes off in under five minutes. The lag bolts are hidden by artful arrangement of the mantle clutter. For a shelf, I would probably use countersunk screws with wood plugs and leave the plugs loose so I could remove the shelf if I needed to.
Good Luck
OK Dave, I won't tax your memory any more! you have provided more than enough info.
JH and you have both mentioned edge banding, and I dont know how to do that !
I am going out right know and start this, the 40th project of the week ......hahahahaha.
Thanks again from ####novice
Edge banding is a sneaky way to make a large surface on the cheap. You take a piece of plywood and attach strips of real wood to hide the plywood edges.
Here's a picture of my desk. You can see the edge banding at the corner and the transition piece I used in the angled top. (If I painted a number on this thing, I could probably catch an airplane - lol)
AHAA ! edge banding!!!! I thought it was the that really fancy thin stuff that I saw in a catalog or that self adhesive (junk?) One is waaay over my head and the other reminds me of Contact paper. I have miter cut a board and glued the flipped edges, today I will find out if that worked. Someday, down the road when I have more tools I will ............., but for now I 'll do what I can with what I have . Thanks again
What I usally Do Is Mount A 2x4 Or 2x6 to the wall & build out From It Use Solid Wood for the top Hope this helps
how do you move the shelf after you are done buiding it ? It sounds like it has to stay where you made it? I want to make this thing removable
If I want it moveable, I build my shelf then make a cleat that fits inside the opening in the back. I screw the cleat to the wall (hit studs if at all possible) then slip the shelf over the cleat and attach it with deck screws along the back edge of the shelf (at least two - more depending on shelf size). If desired, the screws can be countersunk and wood plugs installed to hide the screwheads. This is often unecessary since the shelf clutter will usually hide the screw heads.
If/when the shelf needs to come off, you reverse the process.
Got it, thanks Dave, and the others, I have enough info, time to go make more ...........".toothpicks" ! hahahahaha All I need now is a third hand
Maddog-
You're more than welcome........ Think Clamps!!! - lol
Daves Woodshop - Specializing in fine sawdust, wood chips, and shavings
Edited 3/29/2004 5:21 pm ET by Dave
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