Want to build a crosscut sled for my tablesaw. Stopped at the local woodworking store and salesman worked hard to sell me a sled for $250. Everything I read says its not that hard to build a fairly good one. Anyone have any feedback or know of a goodplan that has worked well for them.?? I’m still a rookie at alot of this.
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Crosscut sled discussions have happened frequently on these boards recently. Do a search of the archives to pull some up fromt he last month or so...
Thanks Paul, I'll try that.
Learn how to harness the power of a google search and you will find all of your questions have been asked by others in the past. Very few new questions, just new people asking the same old questions for the most part.
Did the Google search and found lots of plans. THis forum is a also great feedback from folks on what actually worked and didn't work. Thanks for responding.
Hi There: I am in the process of building a sled that you are talking about. If you have the DIY channel, David Marks of the Woodworks Show posted a set of plans for one. Go to DIYNetwork.com. If not let me know and I have a book that outlines how to build one and I can copy it and send it to you. Good luck, Jim
Hi Jim, thanks for the tip. Went out to the site last night. Was very helpful. Going to build the sled this weekend. With the notes from everyone, I'm feeling confident that I can build a decent sled that runs true. Thanks for responding!
No need to spend lots of money on one. They are easy to build and not very expensive to build. The main part is to make sure everything is true and square. Do a google search, you will find lots of suggestions.
Here's just one way to go (and it'll save ya the DAGS stuff)...
Create a nice flat piece (aka "Base") from some 1/2" Baltic Birch ply. This base should be about 1/2 x 21 x 31 (inches). (The 31-inch side is the long side that runs perpendicular to the blade.)
You need to make a fence for this creation. A 1 x 2 piece of hardwood will serve you well. Be certain to attach this fence to the base so that it is absolutely parallel to the long (wide) side of the base. (For this sled, that fence will be on the BACK side -- the one that is nearest you as you push it across the table.)
Now comes the fun part...
You need a runner that fits your RIGHT hand side miter slot. This runner has to fit that slot quite well and have very little slop. The tricky part is to get this runner ABSOLUTELY PERPENDICULAR to the fence (and absolutely parallel to the blade). If you do not have a Very Accurate 90-degree square, spend the money on one right now; it will save you a small fortune in lost wood and a whole lot of aggravation and frustration.
This runner should be placed about 4-3/4 inches in from the left side of the base. This _should_ have you in a position that, when you plop this baby down on the saw table, there is a slight overlap of the edge of the sled and the blade.
This is a good thing for you will lop it off on your first pass. Once done, you'll have absolutely no question as to where the cut will happen at; you merely lay the workpiece on the sled so that the cut line is at the left end of the sled and off you go.
If you see nothing else in all of the above, see this: the runner of the sled must be perfectly parallel with the saw blade and the fence must be at 90-degrees to the blade. As long as you get that part, you can make your sled any old way you want, and it's going to be OK. As long as your table saw in in good tune, that is.
-- Steve
Enjoy life & do well by it;
http://www.ApacheTrail.com/ww/
Great stuff Steve. Was just tryig to figure out how to sort out the parrallel/perpendicular challenge with creating your own sled! Gonna try your method. Makes tons of sense
I respectfully disagree with that approach.
I would definitely NOT try to use a square to square up the sled. You'll almost never get it right, partly because there's no square that's accurate enough. Just attach the runners to the bottom so that the sled slides smoothly without wobbling. Then:
1. Attach your fence in the back of the sled with one screw on each end so it's roughly square to the blade.
2. Rip a piece of plywood (not using the sled) about three feet long and two feet wide.
3. Take the piece of plywood you just ripped lay it against your fence, and cut it roughly in half using the sled, i.e., 1 1/2 feet for each piece.
4. Remove the pieces of plywood from your sled. Keeping them in the same orientation in which you cut them, lay them against a straight surface, such as your tablesaw fence.
5. Flip one of the two pieces over, front to back.
6. Try to nestle the two pieces against one another, still snugged back against the straight surface. If they fit together perfectly after one has been flipped over, then then fence on your sled is perfectly square and you're done!
7. More likely, there's a slight gap between the two pieces. This means your fence isn't quite square. Figure out which direction it needs to move, re-fasten one of the screws (you don't need to touch the other), and re-cut BOTH of the 1 1/2 foot plywood pieces, using the same orientation in which you cut them the first time. Try to snuggle them up against one another.
8. Keep adjusting until the gap disappears - probably two or three adjustments taking a total of five minutes. The fence is now perfectly square.
Interesting approach!! Prior to building the sled, did you do any alignment work to insure that the saw blade is running parrallel to the miter gauge slot or does this iterative method compensate for that as well??
No, you have to make sure the miter slot is parallel to the blade. Every approach to building a sled makes that assumption.
Robo,
Just a couple of added thoughts to Mark's methodology. I use the Incra runner in the miter..it is adjustable and won't shrink or expand. Also, I use a piece angle aluminum, with enlarged holes, to attach the fense to the sliding jig....this makes the fense adjustable too for fine tuning....
I don't use a double runner sled...my remarks pertain to a single runner sled....good luck
Thanks BG. I'll have to research an Incra runner, not familar with that one yet.
$250!!!!!!!!!! Darn, I aught to go into that business!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
glue a couple of runners on the bottom of a scrap piece of 1/2" plywood. Run it into the blade about 3/4th of the way then mark and screw a guide board on the back.
Back when I had my table saw I'd make one when needed then throw it away when done. Just make sure it cuts square and glides freely.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
PlaneWood
Yup, he said $250!! Wanted to ask him where his hood and gun was - as I assume all robbers must have them.
As some one else suggested go to Highland Hardware's web site and look for their plans. They have a great system for making everything square and true. You can down load or print them and from there on it is easy. I built one this way and it works very well. JohnD
Edited 12/29/2004 9:40 am ET by JohnD
Thanks John!
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