Replies

1. 
   UncleDunc | Mar 16, 2004 08:31pm | #1

   What's the desktop made of?

   A 1/4" x 1/4" strip of maple isn't strong enough to split the desk top, but I suspect it's plenty strong enough to tear itself loose from the top when the top swells and shrinks.

   I can't tell from your description if the ends of the maple and ebony strips are going to be visible design features. Actually, I can't even tell if you intend them to be inlays, or if they're supposed to stand proud of the surface.

   If they are supposed to inlays, and if the ends need not be visible, why not cut the maple and ebony very thin. A very thin inlay stands a much better chance of being flexible enough to move with the substrate. Last time I noticed, commercial veneer is about 1/28" thick. Inlay the maple first, then cut a groove down the middle of the maple strip for the ebony.

   If they are inlays, but you do want the ends to be visible, it might still make sense to use the veneer approach for most of the length of the inlay and then convert to the 1/4" x 1/4" only at the last 1/2" or so at the edge of the top.

1. 
   HeidiDad | Mar 16, 2004 11:02pm | #2

    Sorry for the lackof information.  The inlay would actually be a 24" x15"rectangle mitered at the corners of 1/4x1/4 maple that I plan to set flush with the surface of the jatoba desk top.  The jatoba top is 11/16 thick and 44"x29" with the grain running the 44".  I first considered making the inlay that will run accross the grain of the desk out of end grain maple so it could work as the desk top worked.  That seems like a lot of gluing up and then the resulting inlay strip would be very fragile.  I don't have to make the maple 1/4 sq., I just thought it would be an easy way to deal with the 1/8x1/8 ebony. 

    I have very little experience with inlay and didn't want to learn some hard lessons on this project if I didn't need to.  I appreciate all the help I can get on this.

1. 
   joinerswork | Mar 17, 2004 04:25pm | #3

   Dad,

   Why not glue up a "sandwich" of maple and ebony, the "bread" of 1/8" thick maple, the "meat" 1/8" thick ebony, slices of a convenient width.  Ripping the inlay off the edge of this lamination will present the appearance you're after (if I'm understanding your description).  You can make the slices 1/16" or so thick.  If carefully fitted into its recess and well glued and clamped, you should have no problems with crossgrain movement popping it loose. When routing the recess for the inlay, make it a bit shallow.  You want the inlay to stand just a bit proud when it's glued in place, to assure clamp pressure.  It's also easier to scrape the inlay down til it's flush with the top's surface than the other way around.

   Regards,

   Ray

2. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Mar 17, 2004 08:04pm | #4

   IF the cross-grain inlay is thin enough, it gets stretched by the solid lumber when it moves.   1/4" is too thick.   1/16" is thin enough.  You can make your own if you have good control over very slender materials.  However, you can also buy strips just like you're describing from many sources.   http://www.inlays.com is one.   The commercial strips are typically .025" thick or so.   With an edge-guided router, cut dados in the table top to accept the strips, and glue them in.  I'd miter the corners of the strips.

1. 
   HeidiDad | Mar 18, 2004 06:20pm | #5

   Thanks a bunch.  You gave me exactly the info I was looking for.