My buddy recently purchased the new craftsman cabinet saw from Sears. He’s getting a lot of “blade marking” on rip cuts. He had the same problem about a year ago with the grizzly, ended up sending it back. Have any of you heard of this problem, is it acceptible? I run the General contractor saw and don’t seem to have any problems, let me know.
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast
-
Our favorite articles and videos
-
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
I'm assuming it's along the edge of the board he's ripping. Are they burn marks? Is his blade warped?
Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
not burn marks, they are blade marks (actual kerf marks in the wood). He used both the blade that came with the saw as well as his Forrest WW II with a stabilizer.
Hmm, I'm gonna have to think about this one...Is the wood moving side-to-side during the rip?
Is he pausing during the rip?
Is the blade perpendicular to the table?
What about run-out?
Are the fence and blade parallel to the miter slot?Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
Things to check.
Arbor for runout. Blade for runout(sharp quality blade?). Blade/arbor parallel to miter slots. Fence adjusted away from blade 1/64" or so (the back teeth should have couple thousands clearance). Splitter installed and properly adjusted (shouldn't be pushing the work away from the fence). Technique (pushsticks help control).
Oh yeah, and check if he is overtightening the arbor nut. Good and snug, not impact wrench kung-fu grip tight. Blade spins opposite threading, it ain't coming off.
All I can think of.
Had the same problem with my 40 years old sears table saw, the back barring locked up , so it let the motor pull the arbor shaft out of line. Plus the bolts holding the undercarriage was loose, so that it was not square with the miter grooves, check that out with digital calipers. After ordering parts to repair the saw I have a saw that cuts true, and talk about the blade singing, ware ear plug every time I turn the saw on now! $250.00 repair and I fixed it with a grease fitting, so no more bearings going out again, and grease fittings on the up-down shaft too.
Can't afford to be without the table saw, I custom build furniture full time.
Tell him to call the 800# on the owners manual (Orion). They're all over customer service; at least they were for my bent fence.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled