Replies

1. 
   oldusty | Jul 13, 2006 12:57am | #1

   Hi Mike ,  

     What type of corner are you taking about , angled or inside square corner ?

                                dusty

1. 
   MBaybut | Jul 13, 2006 01:53am | #2

   Thank you,
   Inside square. Just trying to work out the angle on the face frame so it meets up with the cabinets on either side.
   Mike

1. 
   oldusty | Jul 13, 2006 03:11am | #3

   Mike ,

                 I'm not sure I understand what angle you speak of on a square inside corner cabinet . It almost sounds like you are talking about a angled face corner cabinet like a display corner hutch or the likes . If the latter is the case then for example if the face does not end at the wall but a cabinet side goes to the wall it is usually a 22 1/2 ° angle cut on both parts . Try and describe the exact shape if you can . At first I thought you were talking about a base corner cabinet , but now I'm not so sure .

                                  dusty

1. 
   MBaybut | Jul 13, 2006 03:32am | #4

   24" upper corner cabinet. How to construct the face frame AND how is it attached to the cabinet. I have been putting a 1/4" dado in the sides to accept the top and bottom panels and 1/4" dado in the face frame to accept the sides. I'm not sure if that makes a difference

1. 
   oldusty | Jul 13, 2006 09:55am | #6

    O.K. I think I got it . When I do the angled corner cabinet that has a cabinet butting to each side I cut the face edges on a 45° angle and the side walls are also cut on a 45 on the front edges .

      You can fasten or pin and glue the face from the inside to the back of the face along the sides . On kitchen type cabinets I shoot the bottom and top thru the face as well . I usually clip the back corner off about 6" or so in each direction , but make the bottom square into the back corner , this allows the box to fit most corners nicely.

                       hope this helps            dusty

2. 
   MBaybut | Jul 13, 2006 02:35pm | #7

   Dusty,
   Thanks. I follow you apart from the bit about clipping the back. I'm not sure what you mean by that. Could you explain abit more?
   Thanks,
   Mike.

3. 
   oldusty | Jul 13, 2006 06:49pm | #8

   By clipping I mean to make a mark say 6" from the back corner of the top in each direction draw the line to connect the marks and cut that off , it's the same angle as the face . I stand up a back wall so to speak and sandwich it between the top and the bottom of the cabinet . The bottom is cut full size into the corner . I attach screw rails top and bottom as normal but 45 the end that butts into the corner back post.

   If you are  making your shelves adjustable use the back post for the rear support position . If your cabinets will be backed rabbet the bottom to accept the back and place a back on each side ending at the rear post , the sides do not need to be rabbeted for the back , it can go behind the side walls since it is a butt end and will not be seen .

    The bottom should come to the edge of the face . Clipping the back and leaving scribe on the edges will assure you of a good fit even against walls that may be out .

   I screw the faces together on these cabinets when installing before I screw them to the wall for good .  Get the corner box in first and as plumb as you can set a few screws to hold it . Then place the side butting boxes to the corner face and shim and make any adjustments needed for a nice seam .

                good luck          dusty

4. 
   JKBWOOD | Jul 13, 2006 09:52pm | #9

   Attach the face frame with pocket screws on the outside of the cabinet. They will be covered up when you put the cabinets on either side.  And the angle on the face frame is 22 1/2 degrees.

    

   JKB Wood

2. 
   highfigh | Jul 13, 2006 03:51am | #5

   If you're making a cabinet with the front cutting across the angle, you can make it about 1.5" oversize and cut the edge so it can be attached to the adjacent cabinets. If the angle is 45 degrees, just make it oversize by about double the face frame thickness and knock off the corners, right to the front edge. When I made mine, I angled the dado and built teh face frame first, then made the box to fit. This way, the 1/4" (or in my case, 3/8") tenon goes in straight. I made the sides first, then the back, then the top and bottom. I needed to make mine fit the corner due to some bad waviness in the walls, so I made a cleat for the corners and didn't need to bevel the edges of the face frame. This also served to add a bit of interesting detail at that particular cabinet. It's the only angled cabinet I have and my house was built pretty badly, so there are no walls or floors that are square, flat, plumb or level, but the cabinets are.

   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
3. 
   mapleman | Jul 14, 2006 06:56am | #10

   Mbay,

   I happen to have one of these cabinets in my shop in progress now, so I snapped some photos to help show how I do it. The cabinet you are referring to is called a diagonal corner wall (dcw) cabinet. Mine is 24" wide by 42" high, thus it is a dcw2442. I use the abbreviations to help keep track when I have a shop full of cabinets. Most of my cabinets have a 1/4 deep dado routed on the back of the face frame, which the carcass sides fit into, and then I glue and toenail (from the inside) the faceframe onto the carcass. The toenail keeps me from having to clamp the face frames and wait for the glue to dry. This cabinet I do differently. I cut a 45 degree angle on the sides of the carcass, so the face frame sits flat on the front of the cabinet. I then screw it from the inside before I put the skinny "back" piece on.Side note: the back piece is cut away in the event your walls are out of square. This helps tremendously. You could pocket screw the face frame  as another poster suggested. I feel cutting an angled dado on this face frame would be too time consuming, with changing out my saw's throat plate, etc. Besides, this corner cabinet is screwed to the wall on 2 adjacent sides, then the face frames for the cabinets to either side are screwed to this cabinets face frame. Haven't had any problems to date with this design.  As far as the pics go, I just stood the 2 adjacent face frames next to this face frame to show in general what the end result will be. I make a regular face frame for this corner cabinet, and then bevel the left and right edges at 45 degrees on the table saw. The adjacent cabinets have regular face frames with right angles.  Hope this helps,

   Lee

1. 
   MBaybut | Jul 14, 2006 06:56pm | #11

   Lee,
   Those pics were a great help. That's pretty much how I did it, with the help of the other posters, and it looks good. Is it possible you could explain a little about how the back is put together and a couple of pics would help a great deal.
   Thanks,
   Mike

1. 
   mapleman | Jul 15, 2006 03:55am | #13

   Mbay,

   On most of my cabinets I dado a groove for the backs and slide them in from the top, then nail the back to the shelves (and top and bottom) to keep it in place. This would be a litle tricky on this corner cab, as it would need an angled dado. So I cut a 45 degree angle on the back of the side pieces as well, so that I can just nail the back onto the cabinet (similar to what I do on the front for the face frames). At first I thought I could get away without a back, but I found that if the wall in the corner wasn't perfect, there were gaps between the shelves and the corner when you looked in the cabinet.  I'll try to post a pic later this evening.

   Lee

2. 
   highfigh | Jul 14, 2006 07:17pm | #12

   Can I have your bench?
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

1. 
   mapleman | Jul 15, 2006 04:15am | #14

   H/F,

   I never get to brag about my bench, because I never get fellow woodworkers over to my shop. I'ts a bit unconventional top. I took a sheet of 3/4 birch ply, ripped it in half, and glued it face to face to form a 1.5" X 24"X 74" slab. Then I took a 8/4 board of hard maple and ripped 1/2" strips from the board, then planed them all to the same thickness (7/16"). Since the 8/4 board was planed before I ripped the strips, it eliminated me having to joint the strips. I turned the strips on their side then I glued the strips on 1 at a time, and faced all the top edges with solid 8/4 maple, and bored the dog holes. Planing the strips before gluing them to the top made for a very easy job of flattening the top. Just about 20 minutes or so with the random orbit sander and some 100 grit. The whole top cost me about $75 to make 6 years ago. If it gets damaged, the  thickness of the maple strips allow me to sand and refinish a number of times. The base is solid 8/4 cherry rails and stiles with 3/4 cherry ply panels (actually birch panels that I veneered with cherry veneer) Around here birch ply is about half the cost of cherry ply. Crotch cherry veneer on the door panels.  The end vise is a veritas twin screw, and the side vise is of unknown origin, given to me by my dad. There, got that off my chest!

   Lee