Replies

1. 
   Sgian_Dubh | Mar 09, 2002 06:34am | #1

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   Frank, I'd say my new'ish Clifton No. 4 is a superior tool as compared to my Stanley's by quite a bit. It took about fifteen minutes to check it over for a flat sole, to knock off a sharp edge on the back of the frog where I habitually rest my index fingers- i.e., both index fingers, depending on whether I'm working right or left handed, a slight adjustment to the pin that locates the removable cap iron, a wee sharpen, and away to go. The depth setting has very little whiplash, which is a big improvement on the Stanley's, and I use the hell out of the thing now. It seems to stay sharp'ish and usable for quite extended periods, but I do tend to use two or three smoothing planes, a block plane, and scraper in tandem so that I don't have to make many depth adjustments- I have an old Speirs smoothing plane set coarse, the Clifton set medium to fine, and a Stanley set to very fine, followed by the block plane set at extremely fine. The Clifton is a rather nice tool, but I've never owned or really used a Lie-Neilsen to compare the Clifton with. Maybe the Lie-Neilsen is a step up again, but in truth I have no idea. Slainte, RJ.

1. 
   Matt_Mulka | Mar 09, 2002 07:23am | #2

   *Sgian,Why the Spiers set coarse and the Stanley extra fine? Is this an infill plane? I would think that you would have the best plane set for the last cut. Just wondering as to your techniques.Matt

1. 
   Sgian_Dubh | Mar 09, 2002 08:13am | #3

   *Matt, the Speirs is an infill plane, probably from about 1880. It's got a good bi-metal iron-- not original-- that will hold an edge for quite a while, so I set it a bit on the coarse side to tear stuff off in a bit of a hurry to get a generally level surface. it's one of those planes you adjust with a hammer or mallet. A whack at the heel, a whack at the toe, and a whack at the dull end of the iron. It can be a bit hit or miss, if you get my drift----- which the plane certainly does, he, he. The Clifton I tend to set fairly fine, but because it doesn't have much whiplash, I can fiddle a bit to good effect as I'm working. The Stanleys I have tend to suffer from major whiplash and fairly soft irons, so I like to let them work lightly to preserve the sharpness for as long as possible. The block plane, a Stanley, or Record I can't recall which one I've got also suffers from a lot of whiplash, so once it's set I just like to leave it there. Anyway, it usually seems to be that after about 15- 45 minutes of serious hard work all the planes are dull, or dullish, and it's about time to sharpen them all, which is kind of handy, but I do end up with all these lever caps and cap irons all over the place for five or eight minutes, or so, as the stones get their workout. Slainte, RJ.

1. 
   gpwestmoreland | Mar 09, 2002 08:59am | #4

   *Frank, I bought a Clifton #5 a few months ago. I'm very pleased with it. Except for a very slight (almost microscopic) dog-ear on one corner of the iron, and needing final honing it was ready to use from the box. Speaking of boxes, Clifton obviously takes pride in this product: it was in a box, in another box, finally wrapped in some kind of moisture proof paper. Also, as Sgian noted, very little play in the adjustment wheel. I have a few LN models (scrapers, beading tool, and block plane, but no LN bench planes). I don't see how their #4 could be $100 better than the Clifton, unless having bronze is worth that much to you. Danford Jennings did a thorough review on a Clifton he bought last year. A search under his name should turn it up with much more details than I have mentioned. GP

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   Frank_H._Biscardi | Mar 09, 2002 03:27pm | #5

   *Friends,Thanks for the info. I will probably get one. ThanksFrank