Replies

1. 
   Quickstep | Dec 25, 2008 10:40pm | #1

   Is your concern with latex the problem that things placed on shelves tend to stick?

    

   I've used Sherwin Williams Pro-Classic on several shelves with no problem at all.

1. 
   james | Dec 25, 2008 10:51pm | #2

   yes. 

   Even if the paint is allowed to cure for a substantial time it seems that items tend to stick, My thought was to apply a thinner coating of paint topcoated with a clear finish to prevent that.

    

   james

1. 
   | Dec 26, 2008 03:37am | #3

   James,

   You might want to check out the Target Coatings WEB site. These water based finishes are fantastic. The discussion section of the web site has several topics addressing the issue of durable clear coats for latex paint.

   Bob, Tupper Lake, NY

2. 
   Quickstep | Dec 26, 2008 07:15pm | #7

   I've never had the sticking problem with the SW Pro-Classic. It behaves very much like oil based enamel. On my recent projects, I've thinned it and shot it with a gravity fed gun.

2. 
   Hastings | Dec 26, 2008 03:56am | #4

   James:

   You didn't say whether whether the finish was to be gloss or matte or something in between.

   For painted work, I have used CAB acrylic lacquer from Sherwin Williams. They will tint it using special colorants. They can pretty much match any color but will not guarantee an exact since the colorants are slightly different to the ones used in latex paint. Not all S-W stores have the capability to mix these colorants. My local store doesn't and they send it to another store across town.

   Another alternative would be automotive paint. For wood, I suggest an epoxy primer followed by the base (they can mix any color to match a sample) and finally finish off with a clear coat finish. The primer and the clear are both two-part. You can sand the clear to knock some of the shine down.

   Either of these will give you a great finish.

   Hastings

1. 
   james | Dec 26, 2008 06:07am | #5

   thanks for the responses.

    

   I am familiar with automotive finishes ( I have painted cars and bikes in 2pac, acrylic enamel and lacquer ). I was hoping not to have to go down that road as it seemed a waste to achieve a semi-gloss match ( matching the existing semi-gloss latex finish).

    

   I will check out "target coatings"

    

   I was hoping to just lay out some latex then topcoat with a clear finish which would be dulled down with steel wool a bit then waxed. I figured that would give the closest finish match yet still maintain durability.

   My big question was can the above be done in a reasonable time span. I am sure I could lay a thin coat of laquer on latex that was well cured but this project can not wait 15 - 30 days for the latex to fully cure.

   I will also give my local Sherwin Williams a shout and see what they can do.

    

   james

1. 
   zolton | Dec 26, 2008 10:59pm | #9

   James,

   You need a "non-blocking" latex paint for the shelving and trim. That's the designation latex paint manufacturers give to paint that won't allow objects to stick. Any manufacturer carries latex - in some iteration of another - that is non-blocking.

   Spray it on, let it dry, and that's it. There's no need to apply another (possibly non-compatible) coat over that.

   ZoltonIf you see a possum running around in here, kill it. It's not a pet. - Jackie Moon

2. 
   mapleman | Jan 11, 2009 02:33am | #11

   I will also give my local Sherwin Williams a shout and see what they can do.

   Good idea. What I do rather than tint the laquer itself is to buy a laquer undercoater (from sherwin williams) tinted to the paint color and then topcoat with clear laquer.

   You can top coat it with gloss, semi gloss, dull laquer, whatever you wish. The undercoater is very easy to sand and dries very quickly. Not all of the Sherwin Williams stores carry it but depending on where you live, you will likely have a store close that caters to cabinet shops and they will be able to tint the undercoater for you.

   Stay away from the car finishes, not best for wood (athough they will work). Also they are very expensive and require special catalyst, reducer, etc. and they are very dangerous if you do not take the proper precautions.

   Also, stay away from oil base and latex paints. Laquer is the very best thing for the job you have, no doubt about it. I have my own cabinet shop in addition to doing all of the finishing work at another local shop also. I do this stuff all day every day. Need any help, just drop me a line.

    

   Lee

    

3. 
   mrbird90 | Dec 26, 2008 06:22am | #6

   For shelves I found that if left just painted vases and whatnots put on them leaves marks so I usually put on over latex paint a coat of water base polyurethane. Over time the areas coated with the clear finish end up a little off color. For instance I made a display table for a local store and only coated the top and now the top after 5 years is a slightly different shade than the rest of the table.

4. 
   HowardAcheson | Dec 26, 2008 10:54pm | #8

   Yes, wall latex paint is not a good idea. But, no reason not to use an acrylic waterborne paint. You have as many choices in color as you would with oil based paint. The resulting finish is very hard and needs no over coating to improve its durability.Howie.........

   
   

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   Edited 12/27/2008 12:34 am ET by HowardAcheson

5. 
   dmdnk | Jan 10, 2009 10:01am | #10

   James,

   I've done quite a few finishes of this type that have, so far, held up well for 15 years or so and still look like new.  When I use latex, I prime with thinned (with water) Kilz or similar product.  Then I use a good quaity flat latex also thinned with water.  Using flat allows for thin coats that dry quickly and are also sandable.  Usually, 2 - 3 coats of color does the job sanding with 320 or 400 between.  For finish coats, I use lacquer or waterbase.  For color matching, I start with paint several shades lighter than the final color I want to achieve.  The whole process seems to go against the rules but has worked well for me.  Leaving plenty of cure time between coats is the key to this type of finish.

   David      

6. 
   bigfootnampa | Jan 11, 2009 05:34pm | #12

   It should be noted that THERE ARE NO LATEX PAINTS CURRENTLY BEING MANUFACTURED!  ALL current paints labeled as "latex" actually contain acrylic resins.  The "latex" designation is simply a marketing tool mostly used for the lower grade versions of a mfr.'s acrylic line.  So by choosing "latex" you actually mean choosing cheap, low-quality acrylic... not a great idea if you want better performance from your coating.

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 11, 2009 06:31pm | #13

   That's a good point to make.  Paint and varnishes almost always follow the rule "you get what you pay for"  with some exceptions mostly relating to products claiming unique properties such as being particularly "green", or particularly "non-toxic". 

1. 
   joepez | Jan 12, 2009 08:09pm | #14

   Hey Folks, I dont want to hijack this thread, But I have a tag along question?

   I just finished spraying a cabinet with Ben Moore waterboure acrylic. 3 coats. What steps should I take to give it a final rub out. I dont think I want to wax it because the kids are gonna use it for toy storage?

   Thanks for your help. The original poster asked the same question I was about to also as for a topcoat. Boy this community is sooooo well timed!!!!!

   thanks joe p

1. 
   honda | Jan 12, 2009 08:56pm | #15

   Joepez
   Look up General Finishes Enduro Acrylic. Water based and they can match any from Ben Moore color chart. Great Stuff.
   honda

2. 
   Gretchen | Jan 13, 2009 05:52pm | #16

   I don't think you need anything.Gretchen