Replies

1. 
   philip | Apr 10, 2009 09:29am | #1

   Well he could have suggested tooth paste to confirm that he has never restored any of these old things...
   There would be a need to preserve the remaining nickel plating so I would use fine steel wool or fine grit scotchbrite to shine it up without reducing the nickel or protective oxidation too much, with something like WD40 to help the imagination a bit.
   If you have a brass wire brush hand type this is good, but a power one is better- the brass is mild on the metal and burnishes it all nicely.
   Do it all quickly before some turkey comes along and says"The wood doesn't know if the tool is clean or not, get along and do some woodworking now".
   What is the state of the wood parts?

   Philip Marcou
1. 
   boilerbay | Apr 10, 2009 03:10pm | #4

   The wood doesn't know if the tool is clean or not, get along and do some woodworking now! Gobble, gobble!Darn Pilgrims.. :)BB

2. 
   Joe Sullivan | Apr 10, 2009 04:58pm | #6

   Make sure it is unloaded. Use Hoppes #9 or similar. careful of the blueing. Do not over oil. Wipe well with a silicon cloth.J

2. 
   BossCrunk | Apr 10, 2009 01:35pm | #2

   Turpentine and a brass-bristled brush.  Do the work outside. Any plating that this kind of brush will remove was destined to flake off soon anyway.

   
   

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   Edited 4/10/2009 11:07 am ET by BossCrunk

3. 
   WillGeorge | Apr 10, 2009 03:08pm | #3

   Cleaning a 45

   http://www.hardscrabblefarm.com/vn/1911-cleaning.html

    

1. 
   Napie | Apr 10, 2009 04:37pm | #5

   The genius of John Moses Browning!  My daughter has it down to 45 seconds.

   Two Colts, a Series 80 XSE and a 38 Super, one Les Baer Prowler, two Ed Brown’s, a Executive Carry and a Executive Elite, one Springfield Arms custom job. And looking for more…<!----><!----><!---->

2. 
   Buster2000 | Apr 10, 2009 10:02pm | #9

   You know after I posted the subject I actually wondered how long it would take for someone to catch it.

3. 
   RalphBarker | Apr 11, 2009 03:40am | #10

   You should be worried that our minds were working in a similar manner. ;-)I was going to suggest Hoppes #9 and a 9" rod.

1. 
   BruceS | Apr 11, 2009 01:57pm | #11

   Cleanings steps. For a 1911/colt 45

   1. Make sure it's unloaded.  2. Push in spring button, turn barrel bushing CCW about 30 degrees and lift it out along with the spring.  etc.etc.Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

4. 
   dkellernc | Apr 10, 2009 05:31pm | #7

   Buster - Using a wire brush, especially if it's a powered one, will very likely remove any remaining nickel plating on the steel.  Ditto for steel wool, or a scotchbrite pad.

   The first thing to do is get the solvent-soluble grime and grease off of the plane parts.  Use either mineral spirits (slower, but safer) or laquer thinner (faster, but you'd better do it outside) and a soft nylon brush to do this - and yes, a soft toothbrush is ideal.  Do not get laquer thinner on the tote or wooden fence - depending on the vintage, these parts have an original finish of nitrocellulose laquer that both denatured alcohol and laquer thinner will remove.

   Once you got the accumulated gunk off, evaluate how far you wish to go with this.  Early 45s have collector's value, but not if they're shiny.  Later 45s with all the right parts in the original box with labels also have collector's value, but not if they're shiny.  Later 45s without all of the original parts and the box have little collector's value.

   If you wish to restore the nickel plating to its shiny original appearance, go to the auto parts store and get a bottle of Meguir's Cleaner for Clear Coat Finishes.  This is an ultrafine abrasive in a slurry, and is non-abrasive enough to allow you to polish the nickel without removing it or dmaging its surface.  By the way, don't use "polishing compound", which is considerably more abrasive and will remove the nickel forthwith.

    

1. 
   Buster2000 | Apr 10, 2009 10:01pm | #8

   Thanks all.This is just fun side project. The plane was stored in a drawer in what was essentially an engine shop. It's got a thick coat of greasy dust on it.It's by no means a collector... then fence has been repaired. As I said I only paid $25 (Canadian) for it and a #5 (which I then sold for $20...).