Replies

1. 
   GRW | Sep 11, 2007 01:50pm | #1

   Wiser,

   I think that you may be able to reduce the movement by clamping from the top and bottom of the work . 1/2" pipe clamps are fairly lightweight clamps. As you tighten the clamps, the pipes flex/bend, and the work follows the clamps new shape. I use 3/4 pipes, and they still flex some, but much less.  This effect on the work can be reduced by clamping both sides of the work.

   Hope this helps.

   GRW

2. 
   RickL | Sep 11, 2007 03:39pm | #2

   Make your own curved cauls. Don't waste your money on something so simple and basic. A slight crown on some 2 x 4's is all you need. The curved caul technique is very old and works well. I glue up 4' x 8' panels in one shot myself with perfect alignment and only have to scrape the glue of and sand off the planer marks. I've never used biscuits. Been using the caul technique for 30 years.

3. 
   hammer1 | Sep 11, 2007 04:01pm | #3

   I only use curved cauls in special circumstances. If I have a long edge and not enough clamps or a wide top that deep clamps can't reach. When using them on a face, with cauls on top and bottom, they can be like trying to clamp two rockers opposite each other. It makes for a wrestling match. For most top glue ups, I use straight cauls. I also joint my pieces so they fit each other without much pressure.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

   
1. 
   wiser1934 | Sep 12, 2007 05:56am | #6

   thank you for the picture. gives me a better idea of how to approach the problem. someone also suggested using a bag of sand to weigh down the strips. thanks again paul

4. 
   forestgirl | Sep 11, 2007 05:08pm | #4

   How big are the cutting boards?  For a not-so-wide one, you might not need curved cauls  Saw a reader's tip recently  where the guy used aluminum right angle to clamp across the glue-up.  Sets it on there in an upsidedown-V orientation and clamps down on it (gently, or use a thin wood "pad").

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   
1. 
   wiser1934 | Sep 12, 2007 05:54am | #5

   the max size cutting/pastry board i make is 18 3/4 x 18 3/4. have done one 16 x 26. someone suggested using a bag of sand to weight down pieces during glueup. any ideas are appreciated. by the way your suggestions when i was having table saw problems were a great help. thanks

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 12, 2007 06:43pm | #7

   Glad I could help with the saw.  Have to admit to being a little skeptical about a bag of sand helping with the glue-up though.  The reason the boards move when they're clamped is because the glue makes them so slippery.  I would think sand would "give" too much to counteract that movement.  At the same time, it would obscure your ability to see what's going on.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   wiser1934 | Sep 13, 2007 06:20am | #8

   think i found out one of the problems involved. i took out my new wixey angle gauge to check the blade. was off. got that set to 90 degrees now.
   someone sent me a picture of his glueup using cauls clamped to both sides of boards. will try that. you are right, the sand would hide what was going on. thanks paul

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 13, 2007 06:26am | #9

   That Wixey angle gauge is on my "to buy" list, but I got side-tracked by a good deal on an RBI Hawk scroll saw (oops).  I'll be interested to set a blade using the gauge, and then do my cutting tests for "proof."

   I have the Wixey planer gauge, and can't believe how much better life is with it!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)