Replies

1. 
   miller | May 29, 2006 12:17am | #1

   I would probably spend $100.00 more and never wonder if the King is as good as the best.

2. 
   BigK | Jun 01, 2006 02:43pm | #2

   I have never heard of the King Canada brand, and I don't think very highly of Delta bandsaw either. But I can offer some sound advice that may prove helpful. Ask salesman for a reference to someone who has bought the saw that you are considering. Contact that person and get their opinion of the tool after using it for a while. You are likely to learn more about tool than just the salesguy's pitch. I reccomend that you purchase the most bandsaw that you can afford. A larger bandsaw will give you a deeper throat,not that critical unless you are planning to cut large ogee brackets or such. But a bigger motor is important if you plan on doing any resawing. Personally I reccomend the saws from MiniMax but you will have to pay for the superior quality. They are worth every penny, and do accept layaways. Good luck.

1. 
   Wanda200 | Jun 06, 2006 04:08am | #3

   Hi,

   After reading a tool review in the American Woodworker magazine. I'm wondering if purchasing a 14" band saw is the way to go.

   I'm beginning to think that buying BIG is the way to go. Sometimes it's just better to save and buy the more expensive machine. that way you won't have any regrets down the road.

   General 90-240M1 vs Delta 28-475X.....hmmmm

   The Delta comes with block style guides and the side guides depth of blade suport it 5/8th's I believe. The guide depth of blade support on the General is only 3/8ths.  Apparently the bearings are a bit trickier to set up with 1/4" baldes and impossible with smaller ones (general) Block style guides on the Delta are easiert type to set on very small blades.

   So if performing little work with small blades and mostly resawing they recommend the General. ? is how much resawing can a 14" saw do?????? If I wanted to resaw some wood .. let's say for drawer sides and they were 7" in width.. would a 14" bandsaw easily perform that task?

   I also found out by reading the article that larger wheels reduce wear on the blades. Larger blades have more teeth so they last longer. They have better support and lie flat over the wheel. Plus the larger the band saw the smoother the cut.

   Now I have myself a dilema.. To choose the General 17" or the Delta 14" band saw.. what will it be.

   Help please!!!!!

   I want to leave my options open .. not sure what I'll be doing with a band saw 5yrs down the road. but by then I'm sure my woodworking skills will have improved. and I might need the extra capacity of a bigger band saw.

   Wanda

    

    

1. 
   PeteBradley | Jun 06, 2006 04:49am | #4

   What else do you have for machines? A big table and bigger machine helps for a lot of cuts, especially if you don't have a TS. I notice you mentioned table flatness. This shows up a lot in magazine reviews, but in real life a difference of a few thousandths is usually meaningless.Pete

   Edited 6/5/2006 9:51 pm ET by PeteBradley

2. 
   BG | Jun 06, 2006 02:57pm | #5

   Wanda200,

   The problem with the 'bigger is better' concept is where do you stop. If you could see a reasonable array of bandsaws all at once it would be very clear how they differentiate themselves. The frames, wheels, motor size and resawing capacity are significantly different as you move from the Delta 28-206 to the MinMax 17-18". However, most of that differentiation is more relevant to a production shop(speed, durability) or where the machine is being used for special cutting needs(turners bowl stock..heavy frame needed). The point is you get a lot more bandsaw for your money as you go to the larger size...but is it of real value...only you can determine. 

   The key to any bandsaw operation is a well tuned machine...unfortunately, larger size doesn't guarantee better tuning possibilities or better outcomes...just faster. I get no drift with my 206. If I had my druthers, I'd like a Grizzly 17-18" with cast iron wheels and 2hp motor....but the only advantage to me would be the larger resaw capacity. When I need drawer sides deeper than 6" I resaw and glue up a panel to whatever depth I want.  A question I had to ask myself when making my decision was which machine is more likely to be well tunable?....Delta has a better reputation...

   Lastly, one thing for sure, once you get yourself a bandsaw you'll use it a lot more than you anticipated you would...everyone does.  

3. 
   Buster2000 | Jun 07, 2006 02:40am | #6

   All the posters here have made some very good points.  It really depends on what you're going to do, what space you have for the saw, and of course your pocketbook.

   I went with a 14" General (90-125?) bandsaw.  Why?  Space was a major consideration, in my current shop I didn't think I had the room for a 17".  As well for most of the work I do, a big saw wasn't really needed.  I use it for curves, resawing, and the occasional ripping.  I cut my turning blanks on it as well.  After two years, I haven't been 'limited' by the machine.

   Resaw capacity...  No problem up to 8" (with the riser kit), which is more than my jointer capacity anyway.

   Most shops I've been to have a 14" bandsaw, the larger saws (if they have them) are reserved for resawing.  Another consideration is that the big 17" saws are beasts.  You may be buying more power than you will probably use.

   If you're really interested in Resaw capacity look at the General Canada 15" wood saw.  It's a little more expensive, but it will be the last bandsaw you ever purchase.

    

   Buster

    

   EDIT: Fixed spelling

   Edited 6/6/2006 9:52 pm ET by Buster2000

1. 
   Wanda200 | Jun 08, 2006 03:31am | #7

   Hi,

   After giving it a great deal of thought I have decided to purchase a 14" band saw. For what I'm doing I think it will meet my requirements.

   Now I wonder how the General International 90-125 would compare to the King KC 1433. 

   I believe the King 14" is a 3 speed 1 hp machine. Difference in price is only $211.00 (GI being slightly more) 

   Does blade length make that much difference? I know the bigger the blade the more teeth...less wear. But really how much longer would a larger blade last compared to a shorter blade.. 

   I'm pretty sure I'll be satisfied with the King 14" band saw.

   Wanda

1. 
   Buster2000 | Jun 08, 2006 08:40am | #8

   I think you'll be very happy with a 14" bandsaw.  The king sounds like a decent machine.  I think Costco carries the one you're looking at.  I've never really looked at them.  I suggest posting questions about Canadian Brands over at the Canadian Woodworking website.  Naturally they are much more familiar with Canadian brands, such as King and Craftex (Busy Bee).

   Most important thing to do with a bandsaw.  Replace the stock blades.  The ones that came with the 90-125 were downright dangerous.  I had to apply much more pressure, and got very poor results.  Immediately upgrade to Viking/Timberwolf blades (you can get them through Lee Valley, or Woodworkers Haven http://www.woodworkershaven.com ).  The blades cost about $20 each, but are worth it.  I originally kept my stock blades for 'rough' work, I tossed them I realized they were completely useless and of course dangerous...  I'd go on with the story, but I'm feeling like a bit of a shill...

2. 
   BG | Jun 08, 2006 02:20pm | #9

   Wanda,

   The 14" bandsaw uses a 93"(about) blade. If those blades broke a lot because the size of the wheels there would a considerable amount of whaling and tearing of sack cloth. I don't think you have to worry about that issue.

   However, there is a lot to know about blades and blade design...that adds to performance and longevity. When I got my bandsaw I slapped on a Timberwolf and started to play. Within 5 minutes I had destroyed the blade (sigh!). I bought a less expensive Olson and then a Woodcraft and used them for the learning curve. Also, the Woodcraft is a 'skip tooth' which is very useful for resawing. Anyhow, you kinda see where I'm coming from...experiment with less expensive blade design, if successful, upgrade. 

3. 
   Wanda200 | Jun 08, 2006 05:03pm | #10

   Hi BG,

   Yup, I realize how important quality blades are. Makes all the differernce in the world. I'm familiar with various table saw blades. But I have no idea about band Saw blades.

   I checked out the Viking/Timberwolf blades on the Lee Valley webpage. Now I'm wondering if those blades would fit the King KC 1433 FX 14" bandsaw .

   king band saw   blade size.... 93" X (1/8 - 3/4") X .025  that's what was listed under specs for that machine.  I take it that means the blade is 1/2" shorter than the delta or Jet.  and takes blades upto 3/4" thick. 

   The local tool shop here makes their own blades. Wonder how they'd compare to the timberwolf.. I'll have to ask them what material they use for their blades. I've heard of Timberwolf blades before. Many people say they're the best out there.

   One more ? how do carbon blocks compare to other blade guide mechanisms? The general 14" 90-125 I believe comes with ball bearin guided and carbon blocks.

    

   wanda

4. 
   BG | Jun 08, 2006 05:28pm | #11

   Wanda200,

   Let me be clear, I'm no expert. My BS has the cool blocks and bearing guides also and they seem to work fine. When I was still shopping I saw the larger Jet with Euro guides which looked really cool...and the next years model they dropped the Euros ...so maybe they weren't so great. I do know that adjusting the blocks under the table is a pain and I think that's true with every machine.

   My one concern about the Timberwolf is the 'tighten till the flutter disappears' directions. As mentioned, when I did that, something happened and I kinked the blade and had to replace a tire on the upper wheel. I talked to someone more knowledgeable than me and they suggested I just put the blade on tight...which is what I've done for three years without incidence. They told me a 14" bandsaw could not be tensioned enough to break a blade...so far so good. As you'll see there is a little marker on the spring for what the tension should be. I always release the tension when not in use.

   I was nervous buying a bandsaw because I thought they were fairly finicky. Perhaps I've been lucky, but as long as the blade is tracking in the middle of the upper tire everything seems to work well. Good Luck   

5. 
   Glaucon | Jun 08, 2006 07:58pm | #12

   You are right about the tensioning- most BS's tension between 5,000-10,000- and a good blade should be able to withstand 15,000 without a problem.In the past, Delta has been the leader in 14" BS. I am wondering if their quality has remained strong in recent years in their BS line. Some have been critical of their guides. It has been said that Delta does not make it easy to change blades- how much does this influence a purchase decision?Also, any particular additional thoughts about guides?Lastly, steel has made inroads on cast iron- any strong feelings about steel frame saws?Glaucon

   If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...

6. 
   dgreen | Jun 08, 2006 09:41pm | #13

   I think the reason Delta's is harder to change the blade on is due to the lower guides being so close to the bottom of the table. It is harder to maneuver the blade around it but it does seem to pay off in blade stability. I do like their micro adjusters a lot. Putting Delta's factory optional dust pick up on the saw REALLY makes blade changes a pain but it works very well even if it is horribly overpriced.

    

   Welded steel frames are a lot lighter and cheaper to manufacture than cast iron and seem to work well if properly designed for stiffness.

    

   I use cool blocks on the Delta 14" and am very happy with them, the Delta 18" has roller guides which have worked well with the 1.25" blade I use on it. I have not tried it with narrower blades.
   Since the house is on fire let us warm ourselves. ~Italian Proverb