Choosing the best Midsize Plunge router
Hello,
I know I’ve posted several times regarding routers. I have ruled out the Makita 3612C plunge. I had a chance to test it out at the local tool store today only to find out it was Too HEAVY!!! it’s a beast. I love where the plunge lever is located on that router.
I want a plunge router that is easy to handle. So I think a midsize plunge weighing in at around 9lbs would be ideal. I won’t be using large honking bits with this plunge router. I have a dedicated 3 1/4 fixed base Milwaukee router mounted to my router table. I want a plunge router mostly for template routing and mortising.
I’ve been reading a lot of reviews on midsize routers online. But the reviews are so mixed. I’m still undecided. User ratings were low for the PC plunge routers. Although the editors review for one of the PC plunge midsize routers was much more favourable.
Here are some of the important criteria I am looking for in a midsize plunge router.
Ease of bit changing/runout/max. plunge/height/smoothness of plunge mechanism/ ease of depth setting/ vibration / quality of cut.
The plunge lever location is very very important. I would prefer it to be next to the handle so it’s easy to reach.
So far I have checked out reviews online of the following routers.
#1. Makita RP1101 only negative thing they said about this router.. small base opening and depth of guage difficult to read. Easy to release plunge lock, lots of metal.
#2. Milwaukee 5616-24 13amp 2 1/4 combo kit. The reviews are all raving about this router.
#3. Bosch 1617 EVSPk combo kit… that also got favourable reviews. Editors choise and people’s pick
#4. Dewalt 618 dedicatd 2 1/4 plunge router. I’ve read some good reviews and some not so good reviews on this router. Although this model has been on the market now for a very long time. You see it pictured in router books and mags everywhere.
My decision would have been so easy had the Makita 3612C been a lot lighter. A 13 lb plunge is just too heavy for everyday template work or mortising. My wrists would give out in no time!
The local tool store where I buy most of my tools sell Dewalt and Makita although they could order in a Milwaukee router for me. They don’t stock the milwaukee routers and they don’t sell Bosch. I suppose I could check the big box stores like home depot but I prefer to buy from places that service what they sell.
Any imput would be greatly appreciated. So for now I will keep saving my $$$$ until I make up my mind. This will be the last router I add to my collection.
Wanda
Replies
Wanda-
I have the Milwaukee 5616 and think it's an excellent router. I originally bought the body-grip model and subsequently obtained the plunge base for it. The plunge lever, right next to the handle, works fine for my relatively small hands. The motor easily slips out of either base, so bit changing is a snap. Depth stop is quickly set, and there's a fine adjustment for 1/256" fanatics.
I suggest you also put the Triton 2-1/4 HP router on your consideration list. It can be operated as a fixed-base or plunge router without changing bases, and it has, as well as conventional plunge operation, a rack-and-pinion plunge mode operated by rotating one of the handles. It's very solidly made and has a lower price than most on your list.
Good luck on your selection.
Don
Don,
I also bought the 2-1/4HP Milwaukee BodyGrip fixed base router and love every aspect of it. All the adjustments are quick, easy, and precise. The balance is great too. Is the plunge base every bit as good?Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Chris-The plunge base is as solid and well-made as the fixed base plus motor.
It's fairly expensive, $140 list if you buy direct from Milwaukee, but I paid $80 plus shipping through a local dealer.The plunge base fits either of the Milwaukee mid-sized routers--the one you have and the 1-3/4 (I believe it is) HP model.Don
Don,
$140 seems a little much for just the plunge base. Maybe that provides justification for my purchasing the 1-3/4HP kit...Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Chris-"$140 seems a little much for just the plunge base."It seemed more than a little much to me. As I reported, I had a local dealer order it for me and paid $80. plus about $10. for shipping.I have been told that Milwaukee always charges full list price for items they sell directly. That way, they are not seen to be undercutting their dealers.Don
Wanda,
I'll second Don's mention of the Triton 2 1/4. I am quite happy with mine.
-Jerry
The plastic gears on the Triton will not allow for production use. However, the motor is smooth and powerful. I gutted mine of the gears, hard-wired it and mounted it under a table. The Bosch dedicated plunge router (1613 EVS) is the best of the DW,PC,Bosch,Mak.,Freud etc. group IMHO. Smart controls and a micro-adjuster that blows anything else out of the water. I've had one since 1991, and it was my favorite until I purchased a Festool 1400EQ, which is the finest router I've ever used, and I presently own 9.Hope this helps,
Sean
Wanda,
I've got the Triton 3-1/4HP router mounted in my table "permanently". Before it got to the table, I used it a bit free-hand and loved it. I'll third what the others say and recommend that you consider the baby Triton. 3-1/4HP is overkill for freehand use.
Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Hi Wanda,
I recently purchased the Festool 1400 plunge router. Mainly it was because I was tired of being pelted by sawdust. The dust collection on the Festool is fantastic. It is a little bit on the pricey side, but you get a lot in the box too. It comes with top and bottom mount dust collection, an edge guide, 3 collets (1/4, 1/2, and 8mm), and ratcheting spindle lock, depth stops, and variable speed motor. The plunge action is incredibly smooth and light, and the router is well balanced.
The downside is the Metric plunge scales (since your Canadian this should fit right in!)
Hey! Take that back! Most woodworkers I know in Canada use imperial exclusively and when faced with metric convert it into imperial.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Wow! really? I mean, if I could get away with not doing things like adding 47-3/8" + 3/64" I'd do it! You folks up in Canada make plywood 4 x 8 is that just because of the demand from America?Then again, are metric rules marked with 0.1 mm markings? Because 1 mm isn't really small enough. Err... maybe this is more of a question for our European posters?
You don't actually measure in 64ths, do you? Usually the finest scale I use is in 16ths. Sometimes I take a measurement as 20 inches and 5 and a half sixteenths. I say that my workbench is 6'x3'x30" high, I am 5'-6" tall and 125lbs, and right now it's about 18 degrees Celsius. We do use kilometers though. I think the only plywood that is in metric is Baltic Birch (European origin?). The downside to metric is that (as far as I know) it is usually read in millimeters, at least in woodworking. So 22-1/4" would be 6781.8mm. Which is easier to remember? Say you want to divide that in half. Which number is easier?
I unfortunately do own some metric/imperial tapes and rules. I don't use them much, as I find they are so awfully difficult to read. The metric side is graduated in mm - I have never seen anything finer. 1mm is a bit more than 1/32".Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Wow. A hybrid system is in use in Canada! Kind of strange. I mean, I switch back and forth when I'm cycling, all the parts and sizing are metric (but distance travelled is usually miles) and when I did more biology stuff, that was all metric (µl, ml, cm, etc). But that allowed me to transition easily back into the USA system of measurement for day to day stuff like buying a half gallon of milk or a pound of coffee. But I stand corrected, 6781.8 mm would be much harder to deal with 14' - 3/32" I do measure to 64ths on occasion, none of my cuts seem that accurate though!Oh wait... we are hi-jacking the original mid-size plunge router thread.... So, back to the Festool 1400, that router rocks! (although I now wish I had a good dust collection system on my fixed base router.)
The Router.
Hello Routerman,
Now I know you have a preference for those Dewalt plunge routers. I was seriously considering the DW 625. Weighing in at 11lbs that makes it lighter than the 3 1/4 Hp makita and 2 lbs heavier than most midrange plungers. The review I read said it could be used comfortably as a handheld router.
Here's what one reviewer had to say about the DW625
"The finest router on the market. Weight power ratio is excellent. Perfect for heavy duty and hand-held use."
"Smoothest cut and has the largest bearings of any router."
"controls very well laid out and very powerful and smooth operation."
cons: collet travel distance stops 1/2" before it's baseline. The Base opening is only 2 9/16".
I am down to 2 choices now... #1 Dewalt 625 #2. Milwaukee 5612-25 kit.
Wanda
Edited 7/23/2008 11:09 am by Wanda200
Indeed heavy, but in my view, if you need power, the 625 is the best value in heavy plungers.
Have not studied the big Festool, probably a better tool, but the 625 has >25 years of priors, a well studied tool. I have its Elu ancestor and the DW, beat the hell out of them.
The Milwaukee's are not in this class.
Time to quit analyzing this to death and start woodworking.
Hi Routerman,
I found out the DW625 has a small base opening. (2 9/16" )and the collet travel distance stops 1/2" before it's baseline. What is the plunge range on the DW?
The plunge range on the milwaukee 5616-24 is 2 7/8ths" Not sure how wide the base opening is. Might be around 2 1/2"
How much power do you really need for mortising and template routing? No doubt it has a lot to do with the depth of the mortise and the material you are cutting into not to mention the bit size.
I suppose it Never hurts to have extra power. You mentioned that the DW625 was one HEAVY router... 2lbs heavier than the Milwaukee.
I realize There is no perfect router. Every router has it's pros and cons.
Have you used the Milwaukee 5616-24 plunge?
Wanda
I'll address your templet and morticing issues briefly.
How much power for each? Many possibilities.
Simply, morticing is stage work. You can waste in such small increments that 1 HP is sufficient. Do it all day, taking big bites, and you'll need more router & power.
The same thing can be said about templet work. That too can be done in stages, stages so modest that power is not an issue. In a hurry? Then power and big cutters are essential.
Hello Wanda:
My Dewalt 625 is dedicated to the Leigh FMT - great router. I also have the Dewalt 618 Kit which Home Depot puts for sale from time to time in Canada (I am in Edmonton). The 618 is a very good set too. For small jobs like rounding and chamfering I use the Bosch Colt with Pat Warner bases.
Lyle
I have a Triton 2-1/4 and a DW-625. I'm a guy who goes for as much power as I can afford. My 625 is in a Woodrat. But I bought the Triton 2-1/4 for my table because of reviews and comments from people on the forums. I believe 2-1/4 HP is plenty for all my router table needs. The #1 feature that tipped the scale for me was the above table depth adjustment that is built in. I did not want to add the inherent inaccuracies involved in mounting/moving a router with a lift mechanism, nor do I believe the cost of these justifies their benefit to me. But if you need to adjust to the third decimal place ...JMHO!Greg
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Hi Cincinnati,
Usually I buy the best I can afford when it comes to power tools. Depends on my needs. I've decided that a lighter midsize plunge router is best for what I do.
Routerman is right.. most cuts are staged. I'm not a production shop so I am not under any time contraints. I don't have to plough through hundreds of mortises in one afternoon. I won't be putting a lot of demand on the motor. I've decided a 2 1/4 hp 13amp plunge router should suit my needs just fine.
It all comes down to how well the router plunges. After all that's what's it's designed to do. If it can do that exceptionally well that's all that matters.
HP matters most when it comes to table routing. Big panel bits need the added HP. So I have a heavy duty milwaukee 3 1/4 mouted beneath my router table. Think I'll stick with a midsize router for plunging.
Seems the Triton is a very popular choice with many people here on the forum. I almost bought one last December but decided to purchase the Milwaukee instead. It's the longevity of that router that worries me. Some reviews said it doesn't have the "metal that the Makita's and Milwaukees and PC routers have.
Sevice would be another problem. I'd have to send it out of province to have it serviced. (that gets costly) If I purchase a DW, Bosch, Milwaukee or Makita I can easily bring that in for service.
Wanda
Wanda,
To be precise, it's the amperage, not the horse power that really makes the difference. Many (most) manufacturers exaggerate the horsepower. The formula for calculating HP is:
Amps X Volts = Watts746 Watts = 1 HP
So...
HP=(Amps X Volts)/746
Motors are not 100% efficient. Most are about 70% efficient, so...
Actual (approximate) HP = =(Amps X Volts)/746 X 70%
By this calculation, the most powerful tool likely to be run on a 110V outlet is 1.55HP.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
On a 20A circuit, when the router loads to the point of almost locking up and before the breaker trips, it should hit about 3 HP according to amps drawn. The windings in a 3.5 HP motor will not burn up like a 2 HP will when pulling 20A. And if the breaker doesn't trip at 20A but 22A?...Motors are rated on input power not available power at the shaft. We have to consider efficiency if we are designing the router. But what craftsman knows how much HP is required at the shaft to cut a 1/2" round-over radius on a 5/4 black walnut board? We can cut it with a laminate trimmer, or a 1 HP, or 2HP or 3HP router if we know how.My guess is that many of us make at least 2 passes on larger cuts not so much for the router power limitations, but because it gives a better finish. I believe I can do virtually everything with my 2-1/4 HP router that I can do with my 3-1/2.Greg
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Greg,
You're absolutely right about the load we would realistically subject our routers to. Even with a 10 HP, 440V router, none of us would cut a raised panel in one pass.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Why not? It's easily done with a 5 horse 220v shaper. It's not done with a router in one pass because it does not have the snort due to using a universal motor, is not built heavily enough for the task and usually uses 2 wing cutters. Panel raising with a router is for hobbyists, hence the compromises and is not the use a router is best at. I would hate to lift a 10 horse router all day!
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You can't wait for inspiration. You have to go after it with a club. Jack London
Dg , is correct. I have a 7 horse 3 phase powermatic shaper with a three wing cutter , one pass and your good to go. LOL ten hp router, lose your footing, turn into a spinning top.
Tom
I stand corrected.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
I know an old shipwright who has a 5 horse 220v router, I watched an experienced wood worker wet his pants when it got away from him. Not my idea of a good time!
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You can't wait for inspiration. You have to go after it with a club. Jack London
Sounds like it could use a bucket seat, harness, and roll cage. Reminiscant of an amusement park ride.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Not to mention a good health insurance policy and the aid cars number on speed dial!
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You can't wait for inspiration. You have to go after it with a club. Jack London
Hello Routerman,
Would Be great if I had a local store that stocked a wide variety of plunge routers. Although they service Dewalt/Makita/PC and Milwaukee tools they don't have any Dewalt plunge routers in stock.
Just because an item is a hot seller doesn't mean it's the best. They say they sell a lot of Porter cable plunge routers so they would recommend them. I'm not too sure about that. I have read too many mixed reviews online about PC plunge routers.
Makes choosing a router very difficult. Unfortunately, the salesmen at the store don't know too much about plunge routers. They've never used a plunge router in their life.
From all the info I've gathered (online and here at the forum) I am leaning towards buying the Dewalt 625 or the Milwaukee 5616-24.
Is the plunge depth a huge issue with the Dewalt 625? The collet travel distance stops 1/2" before it's baseline and the base opening is only 2 9/16". The plunge range on the Milwaukee is 2 7/8" whether or not that's a big deal I don't know you tell me.
I've had a look online at the 2 fence system. I noticed the DW fence system comes with a built in vac attachment. It's also micro adjustable as is the Milwaukee fence assessory.
As for price they are around the same once you factor in the taxes/ shipping and handling.
Although I don't really need all that power.. I"m probably better off buying the DW 625 3hp over the DW 621 2 1/4Hp midsize plunge router. considering there isn't much difference in the price. How do you find the build in dust adaptor on the DW 621?
Is there really that much difference in the 9 lb midsize DW plunge router and the heavier 11 lb DW 625 3HP router... in terms of handling. Am I really going to "feel" that 2lb difference??? Not like I'll be using the router for hours on end.
How easy is it to change bits on the DW 625? I know bit changing isn't too much of a hassle on the Milwaukee. All you do is remove the motor from the base to change the bit. I don't find that a big deal. Some people do. But I'm used to that since I have a PC fixed and Milwaukee fixed router.
I have a decision to make. I'm sure I'll be satisfied with either one of those plunge routers.
Wanda
Wanda, The DW625 does have a spindle lock, so it's a one wrench operation. And the Collet is double locking. One nice thing about the DW fence is that you only need ONE. It will fit ANY DW router by just changing out the supplied rods. Hooray for smart Engineers. I have the 625 in my router table with a crank handle for height adjustment. True that the opening is smaller than a large 3 wing panel raiser, but the crank handle is a positive stop to prevent the bit from going into the base( but care is needed )
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
You have it down to two. Good girl, you are getting your homework done. I don't think anyone can tell you definitively which is best. We all have our prejudices. If it were me, I would pick the Milwaukee. I have several and have had good service from them. I had one DeWalt and it was a bummer, so I haven't gotten anymore. Ooo, that isn't true. I do have a DW biscuit joiner. If I were to do it again, it might be the reverse and I would prefer the DeWalt. One brand might definitely have a better feature than it competitor but the reverse may be true on another feature. How do we evaluate the importance of each feature. In the end, we have to just make up our mind which we will get and unless it is a lemon we will probably be prejudiced with it because we have gotten used to it and know it's characteristics better than the competitor.
I
I have the Bosch 1617 kit (bought it because I love my other Bosch routers and the cross compatibility of accessories). I have only had it for a few months. So far, I have been using it on a project with >100 mortises (1/2" wide 1" deep) in cherry. It has done wonderfully. The plunge mechanism works well and is smooth. Since I have only had it for a few months I can't speak to longevity but my oldest Bosch router (1611EVS) is about 16 yrs old and is going strong without ever giving me a problem.
Jeff
I second the nomination of the Festool. You have other priorities now but it won't be long before DUST goes tot the top of the list. The ratcheting collet lock is a good deal. The plunge lock is a 'twist' of the knob-like handle.
After all, this is the "last router I add to my collection".
Frosty
"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922
Wanda - I'd suggest a couple of other criteria that you don't list, but will be important to you down the road.
1) Longevity and toughness. No matter how nice the plunge mechanism nor how cool the features, a broken router or one you constantly have to return for service is a dud. This is something you'll probably have to evaluate by reader's polls. One person's bad experience may be matched by 40 others with good ones, and it's tough to really judge the reliability aspect based on individual testimonials.
2) Fence attachement. Since you state that you'll dedicate this router to template routing and mortise plunging, an iffy fence attachement will give you fits.
I have routers by Dewalt and Bosch. From using both, I'd pick the Bosch 1613 EVS dedicated plunge router any day. I've had it for 10 years, used it frequently, and it has never hiccupped. The visibility at the cut line is really good, the router is relatively light, the fence attachment is really good (both rods mount in a channel on the base, so they don't flex and wiggle in use), and the micro depth adjust feature is enormously helpful when template routing for inlay.
Finally, I'd suggest steering clear of router "kits". They're great for those without the money/desire to buy 2 or 3 routers and are OK with switching the motor in and out of the router table, but if you're going to buy a router with a dedicated, purpose, I'd rather buy one that doesn't have accomodations for purposes other than what I intend. Those extra uneeded features add to the weight and expense, IMO
As you, I have a Milwaukee 3 1/2 HP under my router table and have had for 5 years or better. You are covered there as it's a winner. I needed a 2 1/4 HP plunge about a year ago when a Bosch fried a switch in the middle of a project. I also had a DW 621 plunge which had great plunge action but I did not care for the depth it would allow.
So.. I got a new switch for the Bosch and sold the kit. I sold the DW 621 also. I ordered the Milwaukee 2 1/4 HP plunge-fixed body grip kit. I was one of the early ones to have it and did a review on Amazon. And I can tell you it is everything that all the reviews that rave about it say.
So... for me the proven Milwaukee 3 1/2 HP under the table and the Milwaukee 2 1/4 HP for plunge and fixed. Motor swap it a piece of cake.. bit changes the same.. heavy height gears.. power.. great plunge.. extremely well built.
With those two routers (actually 3 as the fixed base body grip is great) there will never be another brand pass through my shop other than the Milwaukee's. I prefer a Hoss router and both are Clydesdales.
Good luck...
Sarge..
My choices would be, in no particular order. DW621, Triton 2 1/4 and the Festool 1400. But the ratchet system is pretty nifty on the Festool, but still have fits with the metric scale :-(
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
"....and the Festool 1400. But the ratchet system is pretty nifty on the Festool, but still have fits with the metric scale...."
I bought a 1400 several months ago, and have used it a lot.
The first thing I did was to strip that metric depth-adjuster scale off it, and put a piece of a machinists rule in its place. Decimal inches I understand.
That ratchet turns out to be not very useful. When you want to really tighten up the collet, or loosen it, one hand is on the wrench, and the other is in an awkward position trying to hold the little ratchet switch in, while at the same time holding on to one of the router handles to have enough leverage against the wrench. I finally gave up and went back to two wrenches. When you arrange them properly, you can squeeze them together with one hand.
Edited 7/23/2008 10:24 pm ET by Jamie_Buxton
Don't (adding my voice to two or three others) overlook the little Triton. You owe it to yourself to give it a try.
I don't have any trouble at all with the ratchet system. To me it works quite nicely. It also works a lot better than other spindle locks that I've used, like the one on my PC 892, that one I do prefer the two wrench system.Though expensive, the FT 1400 is extremely well engineered and comes with a lot of features. In my opinion it's the superior dust collection that really sets itself apart from the rest.
The Milwaukee 2-1/4Hp fixed & plunge base kit for $180 w/free shipping.
http://www.heavydutytools.net/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=563
-Norm
Hi VTNorm,
How reputable is that website? Have you ordered any tools from Heavydutytools.net?
I'm looking at around $289.99 if I purchase from my local tool shop. and that doesn't include taxes. The best price they can give me on the DW 625 is $320
The homedepot.ca doesn't even sell that item. I noticed the US home depot online does.
If I order anything from the States I end up having to pay way too much in brokerage fees, customs/duties.
If you know of any Canadian websites that are selling that tool for less than $289 please let me know.
Wanda
Sorry, don't know any Canadian sites. I know a few guys close to the border that have UPS boxes or friends in the US they ship to and then drive it over the border next time they visit.
That's a legit site, I'm in no way affiliated with them but have bought a fair amount of stuff from them over the past couple of years - including that router kit. Seems like on Makita and Milwaukee tools they have sporadic killer deals that sell out quickly. And sometimes no deals for a long while.
I generally play on Breaktime or over on JLC under the same screen name.
Good luck, -Norm
"If I order anything from the States I end up having to pay way too much in brokerage fees, customs/duties.If you know of any Canadian websites that are selling that tool for less than $289 please let me know."I bought a Dewalt 625 from Craftsman Gallery. They will ship it by US mail rather than a courier if you want. Then you only pay GST/PST and a $5.00 for brokerage.
http://www.thecraftsmangallery.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?page=W/CTGY/MIf you decide on a Triton they are cheap at Busy Bee.
http://busybeetools.ca/cgi-bin/picture10?&NETID=0116190731081976559&NTITEM=TRC002
HI QCinspector,
Thanks for that website. Now to find out how much they charge for s/h.
I have not made up my mind yet. Right now I am leaning towards purchasing the DW625HP. (better pricing) and I believe it comes with a template adapter. If I go with the Milwaukee I'd have to pay $13.00 for the templates, $45.00 for the template base and another $40 for the edge guide. No sense buying a plunge router without those necessary assessories.
Now to do a little calculating. Find out what's the best buy for my buck.
Wanda
DW 625 does come with template adaptor, Porter Cable style. Also comes with chip/dust shield to which a vacuum hose can be attached. But for table use I would still get the DW621.Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
For a plunge routing machine that keeps on running (as long as you can lift it), I have a PC 7538. The grips are great, the lever is handy, and the slow start is a blessing. Definitely not the lightest plunge router available, but very, very dependable.
Triton 2 1/4HP or 1400 Watt is my current router of choice.
Craftsman have some interesting units out that almost resemble Bosch. What I like about theirs is the light which can come in handy when taking the router to the work.
Don
Wanda;
I would suggest you take a look at the Craftsman 2 hp Soft Start Fixed and Plunge Base Router w/Electronic Feedback, 11 amp
model# 17543
It is a great unit. Adjustable speed, bright light, soft start, removable dust collection. It comes with both a fixed and plunge base..........and it costs $ 109.00
I have a bunch or routers and this one is a delight. They even throw in a plastic carrying case in case you keep you router in areas of high humidity. Customer rating I think four out of a possible five stars.
TT
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