Choosing a Miter saw for cabinet work
I use a miter saw in cabinet making; making sure that stiles and rails have precise 90’s and in other cases for cutting precise miters. I also use it as a cutoff saw for cutting stock to precise lengths. I seldom use it for house trim or framing.
I’m shopping for a replacement for my old miter saw that was recently stolen. I was all ready to buy the new Delta 36-412, but the pending DeWalt/Delta merger leaves me nervous about the future availability of parts, quality etc. The recent review in the July issue of Fine Homebuilding gives the edge to the Bosch 4212, helping steer me further away from the Delta. I’m also intrigued by the models that have the laser line feature. Since my main thing is accuracy, the laser looks like a feature that might have a lot of use for me if it’s truly accurate. Ironically, it’s not a feature on either the Bosch 4212 or Delta 36-412. Are others using a miter saw in the cabinet shop? Is the laser valuable? Anyway, what’s everybody here think?
Replies
I recently bought a Bosch 12" CMS and while doing the research was intrigued by the lasers, but came to the conclusion that the only design that would be worth investing in is the double-laser that shows the blade-kerf on the stock. Even with that, from what I've read on the forums, I'm not sure you get the absolute precision you need for cabinetry.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Many of the trim carpenters around here use the 10" Milwaukee, which sells for about $200.
I have a Makita 1013, which I bought because of the extra capacity, but none of the SCMS have the dead-on precision of the plain mitre saws.
I still have an old cast-iron Delta that is at least 15 or 20 years old, and that is the one I pull out of the corner for really accurate work on stiles, rails, and drawer parts. But its cross cut capacity is only about 5 1/2".
As far as the lasers are concerned, they are probably fine for rough framing work, but I have not heard any cabinet makers around these forums laud them for accuracy. I know only one person who bought such a saw, and he gave up on the laser after a day or so of working with it.
Let us know what you decide -- and why. Every new perspective adds a bit to the pile of knowledge.
nikkiwood
Funny how regions work.
Many of the trim carpenters around here use the 10" Milwaukee, which sells for about $200.
I recently moved to TX and have the Milwaukee 10"SCMS and when I get it out of the truck everybody looks at it like I got some foreign thing. All I see is DeWalt.
Doug
You are absolutely right about the regional aspects of tool buying. The market around here is heavily influenced by one particular tool outlet -- good prices, experienced and extraordinarily knowledgeable sales people. And they push Milwaukee. But let me hasten to say they have built up trust and credibility over the years, and none work on commission.
In the absence of a Consumer Reports for tools, guys like this are the best source of information we have.
But it does explain, as you point out, why one tool gets "hot" in one part of the country.
I have a DW 703 miter station set up with fence and scale with stop blocks in the shop and a DW 706 on a ridgid miter saw cart. For wider peices I use my festool multi-function table & ATF-55 saw which will crosscut 24". No lasers here, only a laser level/plumb for laying out installations in the field. My fence works great. I use my zero clearance plates for the precision cuts- use a marking knife & line up with the kerf.
If you want really high end cuts, consider a CTD saw. A tiger stop will give you better measurements and repeatability than a laser. If you have the money laying around.
My recommendation- figure out what your typical cuts will be and get something decent and easy to set up. You don't have to spend alot of $$ for doing 90's. Buy what you like, is comfortable, and available. Invest in an excellent blade and lots of zero clearance plates. I wouldn't worry too much about repair parts, around here the repairs are nearly as much as a new unit. I think Dewalt has a 3 year warranty now on its miter saws.
As long as you stay with one of the major brands, you should be fine. Most manufacturers will supply parts for at least 7 years from the end of production.
Edited 8/9/2004 1:20 am ET by craig
RE: Festool table/saw
I have seen this saw on their web site. But I have never seen the saw itself, or spoken to an owner.
At the risk of hijacking this thread (just a little), would you mind giving us a quick run down on your uses of the system, how you like it, down sides, etc.?
Thanks.
Its a great system. I can't think of any down sides. I use it for cutting sheet goods, staight lining, cross cutting. I also have their router with the 32mm system, doweling/dovetail jig, dust collection, and sanders. No real downsides to report. Well worth the money.
Re: Festool
Where do you buy this stuff -- locally or mail order?
Depending on where you are you can locate a dealer on the Festool website and buy locally or buy direct. They ship from both east & west coasts. Excellent customer service as well.
Wise to seperate-out the framers and trimmers from this discussion - if your saw sits on a stand and makes a relatively small number of high-demand spot-on cuts (as in fine studio woodworking) then any of the top-of-the-line sliders will do the job well. If you work out of a truck or on 2 by 4 temporary site benches then big yellow or something may be best.
I can't claim experience of them all, but can say that when I replaced my 15 year old British-bought ELU mitre saw with a Makita 1013 I was genuinly amazed at the difference. I though I had a good saw, but the Makita is a marvel. I bought the extra horizontal clamp, and have a good blade fitted, and it's a joy to use.
How well it would stand up to lifting in and out of trucks and mutiple users and the rough and tumble of site sawing I don't know, but it's adjustable, smooth, soft-start, not too noisy and for me produces glass-smooth cuts that exceed my need for accuracy.
What more do you need?
I have to agree. I thought my original Delta 10" CMS was pretty good but needed more capacity. I bought the Makita LS1212 and put a FS Tools blade on it. It's amazing, I got much more than just capacity.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
The more things change ...
We trained hard, but it seemed that every time we were beginning to form up into teams, we would be reorganized. I was to learn later in life that we tend to meet any new situation by reorganizing; and a wonderful method it can be for creating the illusion of progress while producing confusion, inefficiency, and demoralization.
Petronious Arbiter, 210 BC
I use a DW 706. The virtues of sliding and non-sliders has been discussed several times here. A non-slider is more accurate. There is less deflection. Go to HD and Lowes and check for yourself, put a square on the base and lightly push on the blade or motor housing. Some blades flex more than others but you will find the deflection in the unit as well. I've used both extensively in residential trim work and noticed the diference in the quality of cut when hanging large crown.
In a shop situation If you ever have to cut more than 8" (the usual max on a 12" cms) you always have a table saw. The only thing about this is that it seems that most of the cabinetry/ furniture guys who I respect use sliders! But, hey a chop saw costs 200 to 300 bucks less than a slider!! Why pay more if you dont need the capacity?
Mike
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