I would like to read or hear discussions about chip carving. Even using the recommended bass wood, it is hard to get it to look clean and deep. Spi
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Replies
I don't know how long experience you are at chip carving, but deep cuts really need to be done in multiple cuts. Take a shallow, narrow cut first, then make subsequent cuts deeper and wider. To keep my knife sharp, I use a 8000x ceramic stone followed by a strop. Clean cuts are easy with a sharp knife, provided you watch the grain.
Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Thanks for the response. I have read and watched Wayne Barton's book and DVD and he has emphasized aiming at trying not to cut twice. However your idea is well worth a try. I do use a ceramic stone and a strop regularly. I started chip carving a number of years ago with the help and experience of an older swedish gentleman. He died and I stopped carving, now I remember how much I enjoyed it and have tried to start again. The results have been disappointing!
If you have a chance to see Wayne Barton in person and take one of his chip carving courses, it is a worthwhile investment! He taught a full weekend introductory course at the Chicago School of Woodworking earlier this year and I can't say enough positive things about him and the course.
Check his web site for his "tour" schedule and see if he's going to be in your area.
I did buy his recommended knives and the ceramic stones. He spent the first hour of the course on sharpening. And those ceramic stones will get those knives darn near surgically sharp! And that, along with making the cuts at the proper angle, seems to be the key to effectively making your cut in a single sweeping pass. Those stones are never very far. When I was practicing, I would regularly reach for the fine stone and make a couple a swipes with the knife to keep it sharp.
Good luck and good skill!
tony b.
Thanks Tony, I will check out his tour schedule and will keep on trying.Spi
Spi,
I've read Wayne's book quite a while ago and found that you can get some pretty good results by following his method. You need to take your time, especially where the two planes meet or you can wind up with some "fuzz" in the middle. Chip carving can produce some nice results, but it's slow and tedious work. I've attached a couple of examples I did using Wayne's stuff as a guide.
Jim
Nice work Jim. You should post this in the Gallery.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Beautiful work Jim. I shudder to think of how long this took to accomplish, but it is beautiful. I find this is a very relaxing, as long as there is no dead line!!! What kid of wood? Was it the same for both? What did you use for a finish? Thanks for the reply and the sharing of your work. Spi
Spi,
I used butternut for both pieces. It's fairly soft so it can be carved with a chip-carving knife, but it accepts stain a lot better than basswood. I finished the table with tung oil and I'm pretty sure I used Watco Danish oil for the stool. By the way, I bought Wayne Barton's chip carving knife and found it far superior to others I tried. For chip carving, I wouldn't use anything else.
Jim
Out-freaking-standing.
May I ask how long it takes do do all that carving?
I did those pieces a few years ago and I don't recall exactly how long it took. The table's apron was carved on the front and sides and probably took about 10-12 hours. The picture of the stool that I posted showed the top and one side of the stretcher, but both sides of the stool were extensively carved as well. The stool took longer than the table. Chip carving can be tedious, but it's not unpleasant. When I carved those pieces I was sitting on my patio with the wood in my lap smoking a cigar.
Jim
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