Replies

1. 
   user-83153 | Oct 27, 2008 06:36pm | #1

   Steve,

   I don't claim to be an expert, just a guy who knows a little about finishing. But I will give you some advice. One way you can avoid coloring the maple is to fill the pores of the wood with shellac. Here is a link to the process...

   http://www.hardwoodlumberandmore.com/Finishing/Shellac/GrainFillingWithShellac.html

   You can use any grade of shellac you want, the only caveat being, if you are going to use poly or waterborne finish on top of the shellac you should use dewaxed shellac. On maple and walnut I like to first coat everything with BLO, allow a couple of days (depending on conditions) for the BLO to cure, and then use Garnet shellac. That will restore a lot of the color to the walnut that is lost to steaming during the kiln drying process and give the maple a beautiful golden color. Be careful if you use garnet shellac of getting the color darker than you intended. Once you start building the finish, each coat will darken the wood more. If you get the color you want and still need to build more finish, switch to blonde shellac for the remainder. On the other hand you could use a super blonde shellac and add almost no color at all, or anything in between. Also be aware that shellac doesn't need to be, and should not be, built up to a very thick coating like you would with varnish.

   For the project you are doing you shouldn't need to put anything over the shellac. It will be plenty durable and is one of the best finishes, if not the best, for achieving a high gloss, either through rubbing out or french polishing.

              Rob

1. 
   Haldeman | Oct 28, 2008 07:06am | #2

   Rob,

   Thanks so much for the advice, and for the awesome link you sent with all the steps in the process.  I am looking forward to finishing this project, especially now because I have this added component of filling with shellac that will really bring out the true elegance of both woods involved.  Your knowledge has helped me a great deal, thanks again, and I'm sure I'll have more questions for you in the future. 

   Steve

1. 
   user-83153 | Oct 28, 2008 08:20am | #3

   Steve,

   I'm glad I could help, but Peter Gedrys is the expert you will be asking your questions of. I just drop in every once in a while and answered your question because I know Peter is very busy right now and I felt that I had a good method to recommend to you.

   Hope it turns out great, Rob

1. 
   peter28 | Oct 28, 2008 03:38pm | #5

   Hi Rob,

   As always good advice and a great link.

   Address for the commission check??

   PG

2. 
   peter28 | Oct 28, 2008 03:36pm | #4

   Steve,

   Rob sent you an interesting link with some very good info.

   Another thought;

   After your surface preparation is complete, blow or vacuum all the dust off the surface and out of the pores.

   Apply a couple of coats of SealCoat (blonde shellac) to the surface and when dry sand it with 220 or 320 paper as needed to flatten it out. You can then paste fill the walnut without worrying about the filler affecting, color wise, the maple. If you get some on the maple just wipe it off. You can also use a paper towel dampened with mineral spirits to do this.

   When the filler has dried for at least a couple of days, apply another coat of shellac to seal it in.

   You can then put any finish you desire or like Rob said add a couple more applications of shellac. After your last coat has dried for at least a week, you can rub it down and polish it. Check out one Jeff Jewitts books on finishing for a good rubbing schedule.

   The difference with this finishing schedule is there is no oil on the surface of the wood which will keep the maple a lighter color.

   Also be aware that garnet shellac tends to have a greenish cast to it on very light woods. If you want to tint your shellac, try a TransTint dye. Just use them lightly as they have a strong tinting strength.

   As you can see there are many ways to go about finishing any object. Practice on some spare wood to see what pleases your eye. Ultimately, that is the right finish for you.

   Keep us posted on how you do.

   Peter

1. 
   Haldeman | Oct 29, 2008 03:33am | #6

   Hey guys thanks to both for the advice.  I'm definately glad I joined this forum, it's been very helpful so far.  Peter, I do have Jeff Jewitt's guide to finishing by the Taunton Press, and I have already found it an invaluable resource for all things finishing.  And I will try your method of blocking the filler on the maple with shellac, actually I plan on trying both methods on some scrap first, as you suggested.  Seems like a smart move, since I've never tackled a project of this magnitude.  I don't know why some people dread the finishing portion of woodworking.  To me its the point where the wood really comes to life and all your hard work really shows.  Thanks again, and I'm sure I'll talk to you about the project when the finish is done. 

   Steve

1. 
   user-83153 | Oct 29, 2008 09:52am | #7

   Steve,

   You said...

   "I don't know why some people dread the finishing portion of woodworking.  To me its the point where the wood really comes to life and all your hard work really shows. "

   I agree wholeheartedly. I have felt this way since I started doing woodworking. I just love the way that the finish brings the wood to life.

   I think that the reason that some dread finishing is simply because they don't understand it. Not that it is their fault, there is a lot of misinformation put out there by the finish manufacturers themselves and it also seems to be mysterious or overly complicated because of all the chemicals that may or may not be compatible with each other. Luckily for me one of the first woodworking books I got was "Understanding Wood Finishing" by Flexner. I sat down and read it cover to cover twice. I was fascinated. No one I have seen cuts through the BS and explains things in a way that even a beginner can understand like he does (present company excepted PG).

   Rob